New to me craftsman 12/36. Came with this Chuck. No key just a spanner to tighten. Not too confidence inspiring. 6" craftsman branded. My question is what should I look to replace with? Here are the 8" 4 jaw and face plate I got with the lathe as well.
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Chuck ID
- Thread starter jaxxon
- Start date
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- Apr 23, 2018
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That 3-jaw is a pretty light chuck, like what you see on jeweler's lathes or Sherlines. I have no experience with that type.
The 4-jaw looks like a Cushman, South Bend, or Atlas (branded) chuck, a real workhorse. There is very little that can go wrong with these that can't be repaired. Even "bellmouthing" can be accounted for by grinding the jaws. I'd say it's a keeper barring any major flaws.
The face plate is good to go, but you'll probably want a smaller one for turning between centers with dogs. That one is for bolting/clamping/fixing the work to the face plate and working it that way. Great for boring irregular pieces. Eventually, you'll be glad you have it.
I hope that helps get you started with your assessment!
The 4-jaw looks like a Cushman, South Bend, or Atlas (branded) chuck, a real workhorse. There is very little that can go wrong with these that can't be repaired. Even "bellmouthing" can be accounted for by grinding the jaws. I'd say it's a keeper barring any major flaws.
The face plate is good to go, but you'll probably want a smaller one for turning between centers with dogs. That one is for bolting/clamping/fixing the work to the face plate and working it that way. Great for boring irregular pieces. Eventually, you'll be glad you have it.
I hope that helps get you started with your assessment!
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
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- 6,873
What chuck to buy is a long conversation around here. My opinion is to buy a nice, used set-tru type of chuck. I have a Shars 6" that does the job and works well, but these days I prefer to use my Pratt Burnerd because a $1200 chuck from the 1980's is just as sweet today, and cost me the same $400 that the Shars would with a back plate included. So that covers my recommendations, buy a good Asian chuck new or get a high quality name brand chuck used. Both will serve you well and both will last a lifetime. Just don't buy total China trash on eBay to save a buck and still expect good results.
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2016
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- 2,872
While your 3 jaw may be smaller than the maximum size your lathe can accommodate, that doesn't mean it can't
be useful. If it's in good shape, there's no reason not to use it for tasks appropriate for it's size. For larger work,
your 4 jaw can be used. If you want a larger chuck, at least you'll have the time to look for a good deal as pontiac
suggested.
be useful. If it's in good shape, there's no reason not to use it for tasks appropriate for it's size. For larger work,
your 4 jaw can be used. If you want a larger chuck, at least you'll have the time to look for a good deal as pontiac
suggested.
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 12,243
That's a "tommy bar" style chuck, you put a pair of metal rods in the holes to tighten/loosen
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I used it but am not sure I'm doing it correctly. I put a spanner wrench on it and a crescent wrench on the jaws to tighten it. It seems in good shape I am just not sure how to use it without a key ? There are 3 holes in the back locking ring but no holes in the body of chuck to be able to use bars for tightining ???
Last edited:
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- Feb 13, 2017
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I am trying to respond without being derogatory about how you tighten such a chuck. In that, I want to say a lot more than I actually do. A chuck like that should never be closed with a heavy tool. Wrenches, channel-locks, anything heavier than the correct "tommy bars". It is for "light weight" work only.
I have a 3 jaw that was on my Cr'man 12X36 (101.27440) when I acquired it. It uses a 1/4" key to tighten, so I set it aside as "non-standard", for me. I use several chucks, depending on what I'm doing. The 1/4" key would fit only that chuck, nothing else.
The chuck you picture looks a lot like what was on the UniMat, just bigger. I still use the (3") UniMat chuck on occasion. For small work, obviously. I also use the 3"-4 jaw when it's called for. Such a small chuck on a large machine looks silly. But appropriate for what I use it for.
Perhaps we should work up a "horse trade", one for the other. A practical solution from my perspective. Yours? The only thing I would have trouble with is boxing it up for shipment. If you would be interested, send me an eMail separate from the board. I'll try to get a photo into my computer so you can see what it looks like. Spindle thread 1-1/2 X 8, Body diameter 5" (appx), Key 1/4", same as a small socket set driver. bhudson@hudsontelcom.com
The
I have a 3 jaw that was on my Cr'man 12X36 (101.27440) when I acquired it. It uses a 1/4" key to tighten, so I set it aside as "non-standard", for me. I use several chucks, depending on what I'm doing. The 1/4" key would fit only that chuck, nothing else.
The chuck you picture looks a lot like what was on the UniMat, just bigger. I still use the (3") UniMat chuck on occasion. For small work, obviously. I also use the 3"-4 jaw when it's called for. Such a small chuck on a large machine looks silly. But appropriate for what I use it for.
Perhaps we should work up a "horse trade", one for the other. A practical solution from my perspective. Yours? The only thing I would have trouble with is boxing it up for shipment. If you would be interested, send me an eMail separate from the board. I'll try to get a photo into my computer so you can see what it looks like. Spindle thread 1-1/2 X 8, Body diameter 5" (appx), Key 1/4", same as a small socket set driver. bhudson@hudsontelcom.com
Bill Hudson
The
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2017
- Messages
- 2,154
The think this chuck is meant to be tightened with two wrenches. One of them looks like this one, and the other is just a regular large wrench for the locknut on the backside. But you first tighten on the work with this tool, and then lock it with the other.
