- Joined
- Jul 25, 2012
- Messages
- 80
I am just getting started in TIG with a Hobart EZ-TIG and quickly learned that contaminating of tungsten electrode teaches me to watch my gap, and second, that I am going to be regrinding the tips of the electrodes. Great care must be taken to not contaminate the electrode by using a grinding wheel that is used for anything (and I mean ANYTHING!) else; the angle needs to be good, and the electrode must be ground in the same direction as the rod is long so that the spark does not wander. So off I went to the internet to see what tool you are supposed to use, and got sticker-shock-MAX! The nitrite fluid is anywhere from $12-25, but that is not a grinder, and when I looked at the grinders, the CHEAPEST one I saw was $225 and the top end cost more than my welder did! After I recovered from that, I started thinking how can I accomplish the task without spending national debt.
I wound up going to Harbor Freight and buying a 3" bench grinder with a flex shaft (threw the flex shaft in junk box), and a diamond wheel used for sharpening saw blades. The grinder is $40 but I had a 25% coupon, and the diamond blade was $10, so I have $40 in this. I then had to dig around in my junk box and come up with a 3" L-bracket.
Take the flex grinder attachment off, and the grinding wheel that comes with the grinder. I then took a portable band saw and cut off most of the shield, finishing with my dremel cutting wheel, and took the sharp edges down with a file. Made some plastic bushings to bring the blade away from the stand, made a quick shim to go in the center of the blade between the friction arbor plates and put the whole thing together with the blade. I then took the L-bracket and bolted in place where tool rest was originally on the grinder and put the clear plastic shield at an angle on the L-bracket. The L-bracket raises the height of the tool rest up to the top of the wheel. The angle of the bracket holding the clear eye protection is where I rest the electrode to get the angle I want on the tip. Tighten the whole thing down.
I put an electrode that I had already fried in my battery powered hand drill, rested the electrode in the gap angle between the L-bracket tool rest and the bracket for the eye guard, and in less than 30 seconds I had a pretty decent tip on my first try. I looked at the tip under a shop microscope and the grinding lines are in the right direction and the tip is nice. The only thing I need to do now is to make a wooden box to keep it in so I don't contaminate the diamond wheel, and that will be another project - so I can take the top off to use it (kinda like a sewing machine box except much smaller
)). Hope the pictures explain it well enough but if not, ping me and I will help if I can. Just remember you should not use this for ANYTHING else, which is what drove me to try to control the costs. Another added benefit is that the little grinder has speed control up to 10,000rpm.
Outcome: I saved about $175 minimum, and it does the job. My mentor told me to get a pack of electrodes and use them until I had a bunch that needed sharpening and then just do them as a lot. It takes about 30 seconds to do one. He is good enough that he can roll the electrode in his fingers, but I use a little drill because of my lack of experience and I get a good, uniform tip. You guys do what you think best. Thanks - hope this helps someone.
I wound up going to Harbor Freight and buying a 3" bench grinder with a flex shaft (threw the flex shaft in junk box), and a diamond wheel used for sharpening saw blades. The grinder is $40 but I had a 25% coupon, and the diamond blade was $10, so I have $40 in this. I then had to dig around in my junk box and come up with a 3" L-bracket.
Take the flex grinder attachment off, and the grinding wheel that comes with the grinder. I then took a portable band saw and cut off most of the shield, finishing with my dremel cutting wheel, and took the sharp edges down with a file. Made some plastic bushings to bring the blade away from the stand, made a quick shim to go in the center of the blade between the friction arbor plates and put the whole thing together with the blade. I then took the L-bracket and bolted in place where tool rest was originally on the grinder and put the clear plastic shield at an angle on the L-bracket. The L-bracket raises the height of the tool rest up to the top of the wheel. The angle of the bracket holding the clear eye protection is where I rest the electrode to get the angle I want on the tip. Tighten the whole thing down.
I put an electrode that I had already fried in my battery powered hand drill, rested the electrode in the gap angle between the L-bracket tool rest and the bracket for the eye guard, and in less than 30 seconds I had a pretty decent tip on my first try. I looked at the tip under a shop microscope and the grinding lines are in the right direction and the tip is nice. The only thing I need to do now is to make a wooden box to keep it in so I don't contaminate the diamond wheel, and that will be another project - so I can take the top off to use it (kinda like a sewing machine box except much smaller
)). Hope the pictures explain it well enough but if not, ping me and I will help if I can. Just remember you should not use this for ANYTHING else, which is what drove me to try to control the costs. Another added benefit is that the little grinder has speed control up to 10,000rpm.Outcome: I saved about $175 minimum, and it does the job. My mentor told me to get a pack of electrodes and use them until I had a bunch that needed sharpening and then just do them as a lot. It takes about 30 seconds to do one. He is good enough that he can roll the electrode in his fingers, but I use a little drill because of my lack of experience and I get a good, uniform tip. You guys do what you think best. Thanks - hope this helps someone.
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