Can't Get Nt30 Tooling Out Of Spindle. 5000 Rpm X6 - Drawbar

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kdoney

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The title pretty much say it all. I have nt30 er25 collet holder in a syil x6 with a drawbar. I have loosened the drawbar and given it as firm of a rap as I feel comfortable with. Any suggestions? I have never dealt with nt30 tooling and don't know anything about them so if you have a suggestion that even a newby should know, go ahead and suggest away.

Thanks
Kevin
 
Use a bigger hammer. Normally if you back off the draw bar a half turn or so, a good wrap with the wrench is enough. But sometimes you have to get a bit more aggressive. I have had to use a 16oz ballpeen a couple of times, and really had to smack it.
 
I used to worry about damaging the spindle bearings but I've never heard of it happening. If it doesn't respond to your hammer you might try putting the nose of your impact wrench (no socket on it) to the end of the drawbar and give it a few cycles :)
 
Hi Kevin, I think we've all been there on one tool or another.

It just feels wrong to smack a precision tool that we've bought because it was accurate, and that we go out of our way to protect.
However, I'm with Jim......

What I've found is a good sharp rap will do the trick, it's more about the speed than weight of the hammer.
Be sure the draw bar is still well threaded into the collet holder so it doesn't fly out and damage something

If you're worried about the threads on the draw bar, put a long coupler nut on it to spread the force over multiple threads.

It's one of the few times that a little more force is the right way out.
Try again and if it's still not budging then reply here, maybe some else has another method.

-brino
 
I make lead hammers for just that purpose. About 2# and a gentle tap is all that's required most of the time, but if force is necessary, it's available too. The thing I like about lead is it doesn't bounce back or mar the piece receiving the lick. When they get too deformed I just remelt it and cast the head again. Mine is a commercial mold but there is no reason that a mold can't be made to fit your needs.
 
It dosent take alot of force to damage bearings from what I've been told. However I have had to use a hammer to take them out before. Just try not to use more force then needed and next time try not tightening the drawbar so tight.
 
I had a tough time getting an arbor out on a clausing 8540 it is nmtb30 I put a wrench on the arbor nut after removing the key block and popped it loose
 
nobody is talking about where and direction. I have to give my nmtb40 tools a firm rap sideways on the tool. I'm not hitting on the draw bar. I normally just use the next tool going in for the hammer.
 
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