Can you lathe a part like this? Facing?

[awaqa909]

I've been wondering if this would be a better way to cut this material or not. Essentially, the material is a 6" flamecut disk about 2" thick. One of the edges is all jagged/huge bur from the flame cut. I've been wondering if you can take a CNMG 432... lets see if I can get this right... Go to 0, Z-.125, X+5.75... some sort of cutting angle/chamfer to 6". Essentailly, can you face a part from 0, outwards? I've only ever seen it from + to 0. The only problem I can really think of, is if it an actually go into the part without the toolholder hitting and how much can it actually go.

Thanks,
Awaqa909

 

[jocat54]

I would take a grinder to it and get it some what flat and then face it off.

 

[Alittlerusty]

U should knock most of the slag from the cut off first with a chisel or grinder b4 chucking it up and what he said lol

 

[mikey]

Essentailly, can you face a part from 0, outwards?

You absolutely can cut from the center on out. Find center, feed in to whatever depth of cut you want and back the cutter out toward the rim.

The flame cut part may be much harder than the rest of the material. I would suggest a brazed carbide tool bit if you have one and take a decent cut to get under the hardened layer - maybe -0.020" or so.

 

[magicniner]

If your cutter geometry will support it there is no reason why you can't plunge in the centre and face from centre to OD, if your cutter options don't support it you can still use a spot or centre drill to create a small depression to work from.

As an aside the process of working on a part in the lathe is referred to as "Turning" so you "Turn a part" not "Lathe it"
Regards,
Nick

 

[Wreck™Wreck]

Facing from X Zero on a solid presents some problems as you are essentially plunging the tool into a part that is turning at zero SFM (X 0.000) in a lathe. Best results will be had by plunging an end mill as large as possible to depth at the center then face out from there.

If this is not possible approach the cut from say -.250 in X and +.025 in Z and engage the part at X 0.000 (minus the nose radius if not compensated) at a -Z that will not break the tool, spin it as fast a possible. If the machine supports CSS all the better.

Good luck

 

[Dabbler]

If you have huge $$ well the start with a lathe bit. Some of the flame cut will be nearly glass hard, and can shatter a carbide bit. Sometimes you can get lucky, but it isn't worth it. When getting ready to cut a flame cut piece, I grind the sharp bits away with a hard wheel, then take a flap sander to the rest to a shiny bright finish.

Some of the material will still be hard, but nowhere near as much of a risk as with the slag on it. I hate breaking carbide tools.

 

[kd4gij]

Is it flame cut from round stock or flat stock?

 

[woodchucker]

I would take a grinder to it and get it some what flat and then face it off.

Exactly, I made a mistake and tried doing that and destroyed 3 carbide, and 2 HSS tools trying to cut a flame cut (HARDENED) disc. After doing the second piece by grinding first, I realized that is the only way. I broke the carbide because it becomes an interrupted cut on a hardened edge. The grinding gets rid of the case hardening, and softens the edge. After that, either HSS or Carbide works.
edit I was trying to turn not face the part. The disc was flame cut out.

 

[kd4gij]

I turn and bore flame cut with brazed carbide tools all the time and never have a problem.