As the weather cools I am starting some tool making for a turret lathe (capstan). I received a number of tool spacers (or reducer bushings) with the machine - both shop made (all brass) and some Hardinge ones (HDB-6 types it seems). These let the lathe hold 1/2" or other tools in the 3/4" turret holes.
I need some more to size my 3/4" holes down to various used tools I have acquired over the years.
My question: Can I make these out of 6061 aluminum? Its so much cheaper than brass or bronze these days - I will save a buck if I can. Plus, I have a neat little stack of 1" 6061 rods in hand from a prior sale. When this lathe was new AL was still a bit exotic and rare so I see why Hardinge didn't do it.
My plan is to mount a drill, then a reamer in the spindle and make my toolholders in place, making a slit after on the bandsaw. This seems like the way to get a concentric alignment with the bore. I plan on marking the top (and maybe the turret # if I find my holes don't all line up) and maybe putting in a shoulder (based on how hard my non-shoulder bushings were to dig out of holes when I first got the machine).
Machine use outlook: I am tooling up for 2 custom nut projects this Fall. One from 1" 360 brass stock that involves internal threading, knurling and facing cuts. One from 1/4" 416 stainless that is simpler (no knurling and much smaller hole #6 or #5 size). A hundred parts of each would be the outer limit.
I am open to direct experience and general opinion. This lathe is a Hardinge DSM-59 (but with 3/4" turret holes not 5/8" per the norm) but I don't consider this question is Harding specific - rather about toolholder physics and material properties.
Thank you all for your time and help.
I need some more to size my 3/4" holes down to various used tools I have acquired over the years.
My question: Can I make these out of 6061 aluminum? Its so much cheaper than brass or bronze these days - I will save a buck if I can. Plus, I have a neat little stack of 1" 6061 rods in hand from a prior sale. When this lathe was new AL was still a bit exotic and rare so I see why Hardinge didn't do it.
My plan is to mount a drill, then a reamer in the spindle and make my toolholders in place, making a slit after on the bandsaw. This seems like the way to get a concentric alignment with the bore. I plan on marking the top (and maybe the turret # if I find my holes don't all line up) and maybe putting in a shoulder (based on how hard my non-shoulder bushings were to dig out of holes when I first got the machine).
Machine use outlook: I am tooling up for 2 custom nut projects this Fall. One from 1" 360 brass stock that involves internal threading, knurling and facing cuts. One from 1/4" 416 stainless that is simpler (no knurling and much smaller hole #6 or #5 size). A hundred parts of each would be the outer limit.
I am open to direct experience and general opinion. This lathe is a Hardinge DSM-59 (but with 3/4" turret holes not 5/8" per the norm) but I don't consider this question is Harding specific - rather about toolholder physics and material properties.
Thank you all for your time and help.
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