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Cabinet Setup...shims And Bolt Or Adjustable Feet?
- Thread starter 100LL
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4GSR
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As Robert said, that would be nice to do. But for most of us, we don't have the luxricy of doing this. Most of us have concrete slabs that constantly move from season to season. Be nice to pour a slab for each machine that is detached from the main slab. None of my machines are bolted down to the slab, they work fine for me. I do level them yearly, sometime longer, just depends on what I'm doing. I know my Rockwell lathe does not have provisions, jack screws, for leveling. So yes, you either have to shim or attach some sort of leveling device to the feet on the base of the lathe. I plan on taking some hex nuts and welding them to the feet and use some hex bolts for jack screws, when I get to that point of setting up my lathe.
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I live in earthquake country. Do I have my machines bolted down, no. Should I bolt them down probably, but for now, I just think about it
. We had over 500 little shakers lately and my mill and lathe both needed to be re-leveled. In the past, I was using wooden shims to level the mill (Bridgeport). I thought I would try out the plastic shims that are now at the big box stores, the ones used for door installations and such. At the end of the day, I did not like them at all for the leveling job. I went back to using the wooden ones. The wood ones give/smash a little and so compensate for surface irregularities. The plastic ones do not.
. We had over 500 little shakers lately and my mill and lathe both needed to be re-leveled. In the past, I was using wooden shims to level the mill (Bridgeport). I thought I would try out the plastic shims that are now at the big box stores, the ones used for door installations and such. At the end of the day, I did not like them at all for the leveling job. I went back to using the wooden ones. The wood ones give/smash a little and so compensate for surface irregularities. The plastic ones do not.
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In earthquake country, I wouldn't want to bolt my machines down. Earthquakes can crack or break cast iron like it's butter. I would look at rubber pads like Barry mounts. At least that way, machines may bounce around, but the machines may stay in tack and not break apart. Not sure what to do to prevent one from tipping over...
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100LL,
I have a RD 14x40 that I am going through the process of setting up. It is usable now but not fully "bedded" down.
I welded large (5/8" ) nuts on the top of the feet tabs. Now I am wishing I didn't do it that way. I'm having to deal with some "bed-twist" so my approach is somewhat complicated. The 14" has a "monster" of a stout bed. If you need to take out twist, just shimming may not work. Plan carefully.
What Rockwell lathe do you have? That will make a difference.
I have a RD 14x40 that I am going through the process of setting up. It is usable now but not fully "bedded" down.
I welded large (5/8" ) nuts on the top of the feet tabs. Now I am wishing I didn't do it that way. I'm having to deal with some "bed-twist" so my approach is somewhat complicated. The 14" has a "monster" of a stout bed. If you need to take out twist, just shimming may not work. Plan carefully.
What Rockwell lathe do you have? That will make a difference.
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It's an 11 x 36 the cabinet for which has 4 steel tabs on the base with through holes in them.
I'm thinking of shimming the best I can and then running the lathe, see how it works and go from there.
I thought bed twist came from mounting the bed on the cabinet. Didn't think cabinet to floor would have any effect on that aspect.
I'm thinking of shimming the best I can and then running the lathe, see how it works and go from there.
I thought bed twist came from mounting the bed on the cabinet. Didn't think cabinet to floor would have any effect on that aspect.
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Bed twist, assuming that the bed isn't already twisted when just hanging in mid-air can come from mounting the bed on a cabinet that is twisted. Just arbitrarily anchoring a theoretically square cabinet to an uneven floor will twist the top. Step 1 would be to shim or otherwise adjust the cabinet feet to level the top within at least carpenter level accuracy. If the machine is going to have a coolant system with a gravity drain, it is acceptable to tilt the plane of the catch pan either left to right or front to rear, depending upon where the drain point is, but not both. This avoids twisting the cabinet. Then attach the bed to the top of the cabinet and level it with either shims or on some makes/models leveling jacks to machinist level accuracy. If the drain pan is tilted for draining, the first several steps will be to add the same number of shims or raise the jacks the same amount only at the (usually right) end or only at the rear.
But in any case, unless the stand or cabinet is stiffer than the bed, you may or may not be able to level the bed if you do not anchor the cabinet.
But in any case, unless the stand or cabinet is stiffer than the bed, you may or may not be able to level the bed if you do not anchor the cabinet.
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For starters, follow the advice of "wa5cab" and level it with a good quality level.
I see you have an 11" lathe. I would think you could just use some shims and anchor it to the floor.
The RD 14 has separate cabinets. Each cabinet has cross bars (welded to the bottom of the cabinets) that protrude to form "feet".
Two Cross bars on the head end and a central one on the tail end cabinet.
You do not want to attempt to do anything with respect to the interface between the cabinet and the lathe bed on a RD 14".
BTW, The RockwellDelta 14 has a separately adjustable "hanging" drip pan. The pan in the case of a RD 14 is not a problem in this regard.
I am in the process of anchoring my RD 14 to the concrete with 3/8" angle iron cross bars under the lathe feet (see the thread I started in this forum
"Rd14x40 Bed Twist").
I see you have an 11" lathe. I would think you could just use some shims and anchor it to the floor.
The RD 14 has separate cabinets. Each cabinet has cross bars (welded to the bottom of the cabinets) that protrude to form "feet".
Two Cross bars on the head end and a central one on the tail end cabinet.
You do not want to attempt to do anything with respect to the interface between the cabinet and the lathe bed on a RD 14".
BTW, The RockwellDelta 14 has a separately adjustable "hanging" drip pan. The pan in the case of a RD 14 is not a problem in this regard.
I am in the process of anchoring my RD 14 to the concrete with 3/8" angle iron cross bars under the lathe feet (see the thread I started in this forum
"Rd14x40 Bed Twist").
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