Brown & Sharpe #9 taper Spindle Bell mouthed

[BrassCat]

I though it was OK. My first collet for this Armor mill (like the one in the ad from Burke) posted in last thread slipped in and felt solid. WRONG. Slowly insert it I can feel the play and when inserted can see a gap. I purchased and end mill holder, arrived today. It inserts till the end mill holder part is against the spindle nose. NOT GOOD. Obviously no spare part for this machine.

I read the spec, large diameter is 1.077". I am read about 1.095"
Some photos:




Spindle Nose Diameter 1.95"
Spindle nose extends ~0.985"
Spindle Opening 0.640"
Spindle Case 11.25" length

Well, no wonder the horizontal motor was removed. Vertical head
has it's own motor.
Photo shows 2 circles larger than the spindle nose. The outer one
I knew was there, but there seems to be another inside it. Will investigate.
I also notice two holes 180 deg, looks like pin wrench to remove spindle ring ??

What are the options ? My quick thoughts.

1) Make or have a new spindle made. Sounds expensive and beyond my skill set at this time.
2) Have it machine and ground out to accept another taper ? what taper ?
Possibly R8. Less expensive tooling ?
3) Have the spindle nose ground down (shorter) and deepen the #9 taper ? ?? Interesting.
4) Other thoughts ?

Looks like I got a spindle housing to remove and disassemble.

I've read that collets can do this to B&S taper spindles. What about other spindle
tapers ? Is it a matter of getting a new B&S spindle and get so much use as it wears? I'm not
commercial, it should last for my life.

Thanks for any inputs. Appreciated. Stan.

 

[woodchucker]

#3 would be much easier.
#2 would be more practical, but probably expensive.

 

[BrassCat]

Further question: What purpose does the spindle nose extension serve? Or better, half the present extension enough ?

Stan

 

[markba633csi]

I believe there are tapered reamers available that can correct issues like that but they are expensive and I suspect yours may be
too damaged to repair that way. Probably the best and less costly procedure would be to mount the spindle in a lathe
and re-cut the taper and then shorten the nose somewhat- essentially #3 above. I'm not sure if it can be re-cut to R8
I don't know if this would be cost effective at your end