Bridgeport J Head Quill Handle Missing Some Pieces

M

Mutt

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Would any one happen to have a handle that is apart so I can see what is missing from my handle? I'd like to fix it.
Thanks and Merry Christ mas

MuttIMG_4805.JPG
 
Looks like all you need is a screw and a washer for the outside to keep the handle from sliding all the way off. I have seen some with a spring and a ball bearing to engage with the grooves as a detent to hold it in position.
 
The handle works fine. I just moved it where it is for the picture, to show what pieces were actually their. The 2 pins keep it in place. I saw ones that have a round steel cover over it. When ya pull it down so far, and ya need to rotate it back to the top for more stroke, ya pull the handle outwards and you can then rotate it where ya want it, then release.
 
image.jpeg The handle that came on my machine was ugly but functional.


image.jpeg However, I opted for the "ratcheting" type you mentioned. I highly recommend it. The set screw engages the inner groove to keep it on, yet is not tight still allowing rotation.

Mine came from Fastenal.
 
Fastenal ? Really? Never knew they sold mill parts? Did it come from Fastenal as pictured? Can ya get the part number for it?
 
It appears that Fastenal no longer carries it. But a quick search on eBay and Amazon for "quill feed handle" yielded several choices. Lowest price I saw was Amazon for $20. It comes just as pictured.


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I am really satisfied with doing business with H&W. Very reasonably priced and good service and people.
 
Looks like there are quite a few on eBay, some US made, real reasonable. Thanks
 
HI guy's, just seen this, "spose" it could help somebody in the future...
similar problem with my J head.....luckily I live in a converted water mill.......found a 10" dia castiron sloose wheel......u know the sort, u turn it to close off the water etc etc (normally fitted to an Acme threaded rod)....anyway made an adapter flange and ST/ST knob and use that insead of the original type lever...held on with a socket head grub screw...... the wheel weigh's around 3-4 pounds and gives a defenite smooth (flywheel) solid feel when using the spindle, loads'a control and it just goes round and round......so u don't have to move the lever around the spindle for that extra 1/2" of travel u always need !!!!!....
have recently bought an original lever, found it to be a right pain in the arse when drilling......it's now in the bottom of the junk cupboard soon to be followed by the original contactor/control box, complete with it's contents...should say it a 1996, Adcock + Shipley J head, 440v....
have a good 1.......Clogs.....
 
Clogs said:
HI guy's, just seen this, "spose" it could help somebody in the future...
similar problem with my J head.....luckily I live in a converted water mill.......found a 10" dia castiron sloose wheel......u know the sort, u turn it to close off the water etc etc (normally fitted to an Acme threaded rod)....anyway made an adapter flange and ST/ST knob and use that insead of the original type lever...held on with a socket head grub screw...... the wheel weigh's around 3-4 pounds and gives a defenite smooth (flywheel) solid feel when using the spindle, loads'a control and it just goes round and round......so u don't have to move the lever around the spindle for that extra 1/2" of travel u always need !!!!!....
have recently bought an original lever, found it to be a right pain in the arse when drilling......it's now in the bottom of the junk cupboard soon to be followed by the original contactor/control box, complete with it's contents...should say it a 1996, Adcock + Shipley J head, 440v....
have a good 1.......Clogs.....
Click to expand...

Hey, can you give us a pic? Sure would like to see your set-up.
 
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