Brake pipe flaring tools

N

NormBourne

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I bought a Double Brake Pipe Flaring tool, it's performance leaves much to be desired.

The answer of course is to build my own, any ideas how to proceed guys.....?

Many thanks,

Norm.
 
NormBourne said:
I bought a Double Brake Pipe Flaring tool, it's performance leaves much to be desired.

The answer of course is to build my own, any ideas how to proceed guys.....?

Many thanks,

Norm.
Click to expand...

What problems are you having with it?
 
A good quality double flaring tool is usually pretty spendy for a decent one. I bought the complete system from MATCO that does single, double, springtight and bubble and the ste up was just about 250 dollars way back then. Make absolutely sure you are doing it correctly because a loss of brake pressure while braking can lead to a catastrophic event. The average master cylinder is applying about 3000 PSI to the brake fluid and a leak is a really bad thing to happen when the system is under pressure... Especially with a car equipped with ABS... Please be extremely carefull when you proceed.

Bob
 
My bet is that the rack that holds the tube allows for the tube to slip. This is a common issue with the cheaper grade of tool. Second is the flare insert is either undersized with allows for it to cock and produce a poor malformed flare, or is rough and becomes hard to remove after the flare is formed.
I and the rest of the mechanics at the garage I worked at, gave up on the cheap flare kits and long ago spent the money on quality. Whether Mactools, Snap-on etc, you do get what you pay for.
If the problem is the first item then you can file/grind some metal off the rack surface to allow them to closer more tightly, but you may get more distortion of the tube due to the reduced space around the tube.
The second problem is harder to fix, but with a lathe, new inserts can be made.
Pierre

BTW stainless tubing is even harder to manipulate than plain steel tube.
 
DAN_IN_MN said:
What problems are you having with it?
Click to expand...

I am having a great deal of trouble in using the tool, in that I am having trouble in keeping it square, and consequently the resultant flare is deformed 8 times out of 10.


I am now confronted with the 3/16 former in which the pin is bent.....!!


In the manufacture of the tool, no consideration has been given in ensuring that the screwed,
C-shaped clamp component, sits square against the pipe clamp, owing to the fact that the mating surfaces, have not been finished and are direct from the casting mould.


Further, the 3/16 former's pin appears to be too small to suit the inner diameter of 3/16 tubing,
which tends to exacerbate the problem of deformation, and misalignment etc.


I would be interested in your comments/suggestions.

Admittedly, it was cheap at $30 but you expect it to perform nevertheless.

The USA supplier refuses to accept any responsibility as does the manufacturer.
 
pdentrem said:
My bet is that the rack that holds the tube allows for the tube to slip. This is a common issue with the cheaper grade of tool. Second is the flare insert is either undersized with allows for it to cock and produce a poor malformed flare, or is rough and becomes hard to remove after the flare is formed.
I and the rest of the mechanics at the garage I worked at, gave up on the cheap flare kits and long ago spent the money on quality. Whether Mactools, Snap-on etc, you do get what you pay for.
If the problem is the first item then you can file/grind some metal off the rack surface to allow them to closer more tightly, but you may get more distortion of the tube due to the reduced space around the tube.
The second problem is harder to fix, but with a lathe, new inserts can be made.
Pierre

BTW stainless tubing is even harder to manipulate than plain steel tube.
Click to expand...

There is absolutely no problem with the rack, there is no way the tube is slipping..!
 
NormBourne said:
I am having a great deal of trouble in using the tool, in that I am having trouble in keeping it square, and consequently the resultant flare is deformed 8 times out of 10.


I am now confronted with the 3/16 former in which the pin is bent.....!!


In the manufacture of the tool, no consideration has been given in ensuring that the screwed,
C-shaped clamp component, sits square against the pipe clamp, owing to the fact that the mating surfaces, have not been finished and are direct from the casting mould.


Further, the 3/16 former's pin appears to be too small to suit the inner diameter of 3/16 tubing,
which tends to exacerbate the problem of deformation, and misalignment etc.


I would be interested in your comments/suggestions.

Admittedly, it was cheap at $30 but you expect it to perform nevertheless.

The USA supplier refuses to accept any responsibility as does the manufacturer.
Click to expand...

Ouch, I have had the broken pin version. Sounds like some hand fitting will have to be done. PITA!

Can you clamp the C-clamp in a vise so that all the torque is applied only to the screw? This helps prevent some of the misalignment as the clamp shifts otherwise.
Pierre

- - - Updated - - -

NormBourne said:
There is absolutely no problem with the rack, there is no way the tube is slipping..!
Click to expand...


That is good. I see that it is the clamp and insert that is causing the issues.
Pierre
 
Well guys, I had a go at building one from scratch, what a disaster..!!

I have limited equipment so it had to be fabricated. Materials to hand, two bits of 20mm brass round silvered soldered to 20mm X12mm key steel were used, the bottom piece cut to accommodate the tube clamp etc.

Alas the silver solder gave way, I should have used steel round and welded. But welding for me is a problem, in that I have a Defibrillator in my chest which is sensitive to electromagnetic radiation.

So I suppose I will have to bite the bullet and buy an upmarket tool.

Anyway guys, many thanks for your advice and interest.

Norm.
 
The best tool I have found is easy and cheap it is sold by all tool guys it is a inline flaring tool if you look up Matco tools it is part number dft161 it will give you a idea how it works. I have tried hydraulic types and manual flaring tools and they always leave a lot to be desired and here in road salt and rust country I replace brake lines at least 3 times a week on customers cars and trucks hope this helps ! Dave
 
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