@Jim Dobson : Thanks much for your video review.
I also went that route, and I saw the very same electronic caliper as in your video.
I went for something looking so similar that it probably originates from the same stable, with minor differences on the barrel.
I think it cost about £50 at the time. Everything on the case, down to the exact size, features, etc. of the buttons seems identical to yours.
Forgive that the picture was actually about the gauge blocks in another thread, but I was testing out the micrometer as well.
Let us take the review aspect a tad further. One minor mechanical difference is that the barrel parts are all metal.
On the body, except for the top surface buttons and display assembly, all the right side enclosure is die-cast metal, grey hammer finished painted, as part of the whole frame. It tested out exact on the gauge blocks, but only after I allowed for the temperature coefficient. The inside of the electronics is that slight bit warmer, and the blocks were chilly cold. Given time for all to equalize, it was OK.
A freebie!
I scored the caliper for zero $bucks because I noticed there was a rectangular rubber bung on the right side of the case closing access to a computer interface socket, and so asked the seller if he also sold the cable, and instructions. The seller completely misinterpreted the request as a complaint, and wrote back apologizing, saying there was additional software, etc. needed that was missing, and gave me a full refund. The seller, still apologetic, said that the mic was short of stuff leaving it "unusable", I should not to go the the expense of returning it, and that I should "dispose of it in manner safe and responsible".
OK - I will say that the thought of throwing it into the tip did not, and could never have, occurred to me!
OK - I get it that about here is where comes the calls of "You Suck" @!#
Dare I mention that I then spent the refund on another, the same kind, but longer, 25mm - 50mm model?
USB Data Interface
Functionally, it looks to be a 4-pin standard type data interface, which needs a correct connector to USB on the other end. The connector is not Mitutoyo style compatible. I know one can hack up a computer display interface with the software that lets you store, and average readings, and various clever stuff, or maybe even find it for free out there (except the cable), but I did not need it.
Battery Life
It does a "pseudo switch off", of the usual sort that never entirely switches off, just so it can keep it's zero calibration remembered, and can spring to life when you move anything. It manages to come to life for it's timeout period while in the box, even if the box was just moved just a little. Given that it sits for weeks or months stored in it's box, I opted to take the battery out. It cries out for a hard ON/OFF switch. I have studied it (inside the covers), and considered adding a tiny switch mounted adjacent to the data port, or on the back, but I have not yet done anything about it. If the display starts dimming, a fresh battery restores the contrast.
A 0.001mm micrometer is quite hard to use!
That amounts to 40 millionths inches!
It takes care and patience.
0.001mm accuracy is difficult to do, and get two readings to agree. As with all accurate thread things, it takes ages to wind and unwind the barrel. Measuring is slow, and cannot be casual. This would be true of a regular non-electronic micrometer also.
I dare say that if I had gone for a 0.001" version, or 0.0005", I would use it more.
Also, I have kind developed a liking for stuff that is mechanically precision, robust, and does not need batteries!