Bismuth--Yuch. My new worst favorite material to machine

Bill Kahn

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For reasons explained elsewhere, I am now machining bismuth. Starting with an oversized 1x2x6" and bringing down to size.

Yuch.

I had figured it would be similar to lead or tin. Heavy, soft metals. Well, yes, sort of. It creaks like tin does when squeezed in a vice.

But the differences. My. When using a normal end mill (5/8" carbide), at all feeds and speeds, the bismuth will cut ok (like lead) and then shatter on the edges, breaking off like .2" pieces. Now, the bismuth is indeed a beautiful shinny crystal inside, so the broken spots are very sparkly and all, but it is a very ragged cut.

When using a face cutter (3" with carbide inserts) it starts bad, and gets worse. At slow feeds and speeds (500 rpm say) you get the edge shatter. At medium speed you get the shatter, and also a spray of sand-like sharf. At high speed (2000 rpm) it is worse. It is nice because I had no edge shatter (wonderful) but the sharf is not strings, not curls, not dust, but rather a very fine powder. Smaller than fine sand. Sort of like talcum powder. At creates a cloud of powder, which coats and gets everywhere within five-ish feet. Not like an explosion of talcum which would get all over the shop--the bismuth powder does fall in air.

And this powder is very hard to clean up. A vacuum sort of works. A brush is better. But this powder is adhesive to everything. Plastic, cloth, even all the machine metal. Feels like it might be electrostatic cling somehow. How electrostatic cling clings to metal though is beyond me. I quickly realized not only face protection, but breathing protection was needed. On with the little P95 mask.

My shop vac was able to suck up some of the mess as I ran it and held the nozzle right at the cutter, but mostly the powder got everywhere anyhow.

No doubt there is an expert somewhere who knows exactly how to hand sharpen the tooling to avoid both the edge shatter and the powder. Though who machines bismuth is a mystery, to me at least.

Materials are so interesting. Until you have actually gone done something for real it is amazing how hard it is to imagine the number of ways an idea can not work. So, I dislike machining Titanium (with my little hobby stuff, the self-igniting piles of titanium sharf which burn nearly like magnesium indicates to me this is stuff best left to experts. ) And, I dislike machining copper--it is grabby and breaks bits and so hard to get any sort of acceptable surface finish (again, with my tools). But, most of all right now, I dislike machining bismuth--that fine fine powder is really grungy.

Life is fun.

-Bill
 
Love it, thanks for reporting! And I think it's neat that you're still doing that -- a beautifully tactile way to get to know metals. :encourage:

-frank
 
You may be able to bevel the edge of the cut down to the finish line, like one does with cast iron to avoid the crumbling at the ends of the cuts (done with a file). What is the purpose of the machining?
 
Bismuth? the same thing thats in Pepto Bismol. Don't breath the dust.
 
I have a bunch of bismuth, several pounds of it. Though what I have truely is a lead bearing alloy. What I have is a low melting point alloy, lower than 200*F. The metal is used by gunsmiths for the same reason plus a low shrinkage rate. I've never heard (until now) of anyone machining it. But many references to casting it, both the native metal and the alloys. Gunsmiths use it for measuring the chamber size, although the details are beyond me.

.
 
Wow! I would not of thought to machine this stuff. Likely I would of cast to near or finished shape. As you found out, brittle and frangible. We work with it a bit. I usually take what I need and break it up in a mortar and pestle prior to mixing with other metals.
Pierre
 
Bismuth is being used as a lead substitute as it's not toxic but has similar properties
 
While it might seem like casting the shape rather than machining it might work better, Bismuth expands as it solidifies so if tight tolerances are needed casting likely won't work. A 50-50 alloy of Bismuth and Lead has a very low dimensional change, so it's been used for making accurate castings (usually for the purposes of making measurements that would otherwise be difficult to get).

The Wikipedia page on Bismuth indicates it is a brittle metal. The dust you're getting probably is the result of micro-fractures, not cutting action. Heating the piece to close to its melting point might reduce its tendency to fracture. Or maybe you could surround the edges of the piece with something that can be removed later, to help the edges resist the cutting forces.

According to Wikipedia, bismuth is only attacked by hydrochloric acid if oxygen is present. On the other hand, aluminum is strongly attacked by HCl. You might be able to do something tricky like making a sacrificial mold out of aluminum, then using it as the support as you machine the bismuth. Any remaining aluminum would be removed in hydrochloric acid. The evolution of hydrogen will naturally exclude oxygen, so of course you'd want to do this bit outside. The HCl fumes would be on the nasty side as well. Stay upwind! :)
 
OP here...Wow. Now, this HCl idea is brilliant. As I am a hobbiest, futzing not just with metals, but with acid, seems like a perfect project. From https://www.bobvila.com/articles/muriatic-acid/ it seems like it is manageable, but requires (allows, requires) I buy more stuff to do responsibly. Sounds perfect. I might try first seeing how long it takes to dissolve, say a .05” thick piece of aluminum.

In addition to the fun with acid aspects of such a project (yes, I do know this hobby comes with adult responsibilities) work-holding (or, in this case, the aluminum edge) needs consideration. I am creating a 1” x 2” x 6” rectangular solid. I would like as crisp edges as possible. So, if I make an aluminum mold, with 90 degree square sides, I certainly see how I can take off the top with the edges mechanically protected by the aluminum. And the bottom too. But, I have four more edges to get to (and four more faces to remove. The bismuth chipping was happening on both the toolbit‘s ingress and egress sides of the unsupported ingot. I can machine off most of the remaining four sides of the sacrificial aluminum mold. Down, perhaps to .05”? Maybe even .01”? And then dissolve off the rest? That will giving the last four edges whatever crisp sharpness that was in the sacrificial mold. And whatever surface finish they pick up from the mold.

Hmm, how to make a clean rectangular 1x2x6 aluminum mold? Maybe I use like 3/16” thick plate and tiny screws? Maybe learn to weld aluminum?

This does have some dimensionality to it.

Fun hobby.

-Bill
 
Seems you could make a mold out of plate and screws and just remove the screws to open it up to remove the part.

If you make it longer than needed with a 1x2" side as the pour opening any expansion would not be a problem. Would give you nice 90* corners and leave you with only 1 facet to cut to get the correct length.
 
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