Bijur auto oiler - testing, disassembly, cleaning, flushing, and repair

D

dansawyer

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The machine is a Bridgeport Series 1 CNC and the oiler is a Bijur C-2990. The oiler looks like it has not been used for years and the oil is hardened. I would like to refirb the oiling system based on the Bijur.
Does anyone have experience disassembling, cleaning,and refurbing the Bijur oiler?
I am concerned the oil distribution system may also be clogged.
Does anyone have experience testing and or flushing the oil distribution system? Should the system be flushed with a detergent such as ATF?
This oiler is electric. In itself that will be a challange.
 
Many people unfamiliar with them think they are plugged up because when yu lift the pump handle the oil flows out real slowly through jets that look like brass fittings. That's the way they are designed. Depending on the pump I believe it's a low pressure of 20 PS! (forgot) and the metering units meter out a number of drops per minute. The best way to check is to take off a metering unit nut on the outside flow which is usually on a manifold and watch for small drips of oil. As a machine rebuilder I have had them apart. If the metering unit and nylon /coper tube is plugged then no doubt the oil passages in the casting the tubes feed are plugged too and you should take the machine apart and cleanout everything. It is good preventative maintenance too. Replace or at least clean the way wipers too.

I've had them apart. There are small jets they call metering units that are screwed into a manifold. I usually order new ones I believe they cost around $18.00 each. When I remove them, I buy some cheap box wrenches (3/8") I believe and cut a groove in the top of the box end so it becomes a hydraulic wrench so you can slip them over the 5/32" copper or plastic tubing. As the tubing nut that screws on the metering unit many times gets stuck to the unit and when you unscrew the nut the unit wants to turn. So I slide one down to the metering unit to hold it while I unscrew the meter unit nut. The metering units have numbers stamped into them with a directional flow arrow. I draw a sketch showing where the numbers are in the manifold. Probably a FJB-1 or FJB-2 . The larger the number the more flow. The units have small steel shafts inside a drilled hole and the oil flows around the shaft. The larger numbered ones have small shafts to allow more oil. I have tried to clean them with stoddard solvent poured into the pump sump and pump the pump under pressure. I have also screwed the units into a 1/8" pipe I rig to an air nozzel and blow them out with the ----> low. Never try to blow the opposite direction as the shaft and some have a felt filter inside will blow out of the brass unit and you've lost them. If the tubing is nylon it gets brittlle. he plastic tubing uses a different farrel then copper tubing. Over the years I have been replacing them with a meter unit made by LubeUSA. https://www.lubeusa.com/
 
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Bijur sold to a company a few years back. https://www.bijurdelimon.com/

There is a company who has a website saying they sell Bijur. Devco or something like that. They are not the OEM and mark the price up a lot.

The pumps have a filter inside the pump reservoir it is held in with a spring wire. There is a felt filter with 2 size screens under it. So if you order new ones, order extra tubing and pour the solvent into the tank and make a pipe adapter to screw in the meting units and pump pressure clean them out. If it is a plastic reservoir don't put in lacquer thinner in it as it will cloud the clear plastic. (done that..lol) I have also been told if you have an ultra sound washer, they work to clean them out. I've never tried that. Also squirt out clean the tubes. You call call me if you want some more advice. 651-338-8141 or email. Richard@Handscraping.com.... PS. If it doesn't have a inline pressure gage, order one as it is a great waay to see if there is a leek or plugged up line...leak, no pressure is a leak, plugged up the pressure goes up. :) Rich.

I now buy a auto pump on a timer with a float switch, so when the oil is to low a red light goes on
 
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Thanks for the help getting started. My pump is electric. There are 5 wires, 3 red, 1 white, and 1 blue. Does anyone have any starters on wiring this up? Thanks, Dan
 
Trace back and see where they go. One is probably a ground, 2 are for the float switch and 2 are for the power. They usually have a label on the bottom of the cover where the wires come out.
 
I pulled the unit and removed the cover. Yes, 2 of the red ones are for the float. The motor is 110/240. The 3rd red wire is the motor central winding. I assume for 110 I can tie the blue and white together and connect 110 accross the blue/green combo and the red?
 
With-out a diagram I'm not going to venture a guess. I would suggest to take pictures and post them with the title "Electrical help needed" as there are members with a lot more electrical experience then I.
 
I found a second motor. That plate indicate it was a dual volage motor and the blue - white pair is 110V. I wired it that and it appears to be working.
 
I connected up the pump and started a milling program. After 30 minutes or so the Y ways had a nice clean sheen of clean way oil. All is good. I wish I knew how to check the ball screws.
 
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