Best unimat lathe cutting tool for beginners?

Pinresto

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Hello All, I'm new to lathes and metal work in general. I'm no stranger to tools and working with metal but I'm new to properly machining metal on a lathe and mill. I plan on correcting this with some eventual courses but first I bought a Unimat SL1000 with all the trimmings to play with. I want to get started but I need some cutting tools first. I see my choices are grinding my own tools with HHS or buying pre made carbide tools. If I'm incorrect or if there's more to any of this let me know. I'd like to know what my best options are for cutting stainless steel. I'd like to start with the carbide tools until I get the feel of things. Is there a reasonably priced kit? Who should I buy these from? What should I buy first? Any knowledge you could share to get me started would be greatly appreciated.
 
Hi. Welcome! I have a small lathe in the same size range, and all the suggestions that I have seen are for small HSS tool bits that you sharpen yourself. You mentioned that your lathe comes with a lot of tooling. Anything useful? The reason I mention this is that my lathe did not come with a lantern toolpost. Therefore, I had to figure out a toolpost for it. One choice was buying an exact replacement on Ebay for $39. These had a reputation for not being solid. Another choice was to get a QC toolpost. These looked expensive, and I would have also had to purchase a square piece of HSS. Finally, I settled on the block sort of toolpost with a groove cut in it. The main complaint about these was the shimming required. While I was waiting for some forge time so I could butcher (technical meaning) a slot, I chanced upon some broken drills. A really simple tool block could be made with round holes and the drill pieces could be held. It turned out that this was quick to make. Despite watching youtube videos, I got the tool grind wrong, and got a little rubbing on the side clearance. I fixed this, and the broken drill bit cut aluminum just fine. Tightening things up a bit (cross slide gib) made it work on steel. It just doesn't work on tack welds. The bit will flex up and leave a high spot. These can just be filed down. I suspect that other tool choices would not work well with these high spots. Another advantage is that this did not cost much. Shortly afterwards, I found a piece of Rex aa at a garage sale for a buck. It is an odd shape, and I will forge a tool holder for it. So, almost anything will work if you are determined, and the small hand ground HSS tool bit suggestion was a good one.
 
I'm pretty old-school so.always recommend HSS for general use, the skills learned in grinding and tool geometry will serve you well as long as you're machining, and they are much easier to sharpen to a proper clean, razor sharp edge - this has a huge benefit in finish and tool forces.

The (usually Chinese or Indian) brazed-on carbide tooling is, frankly, crap - the tip geometry is wrong out of the box and needs regrinding on a green (silicon carbide) wheel and finishing with a diamond hone or wheel before use, so AVOID, the indexable inserts aren't much better!

Quality indexable tools from the likes of Sandvik are much much better, but understand that they're intended for heavier,more powerful, more rigid lathes taking heavier cuts in industry and don't work well on fine cuts on small lathes - the geometry isn't necessarily suited to hobby machines (negative rake on cutting edges, radii on them which force a minimum depth of cut). The inserts for aluminium have much finer edges and positive rake and can work well on steel on light lathes though, but decoding the part numbers is an hour's work when you could be working at the lathe...
.
I appreciate that stainless is what you intend to work with but it has some awkward characteristics, worst of all its habit of work-hardening if the tool rubs rather than cutting, so if the cut (a couple.of thou" finishing to size, for instance) is smaller than. the carbide cutting-edge radius it'll just burnish and harden the Work... And decent (cobalt-alloy) HSS should cope with most stainless alloys and takes a much better edge.

If you don't feel up to grinding HSS tooling, there are sets available ready-ground to get you started and you can study their geometry and resharpen as you go along, gaining old-school skills :-)
 
+1 to what British Steel posted. I started with an SL1000 and learned about tool geometry and with the small motor on a Unimat you need SHARP tools. No forcing anything. The round bars the carriage run on are very flexible too. There are articles that tell you how to make more tools for the Unimat with the Unimat. I spent many quality learning hours on mine. In fact I still have it for those tiny machine jobs that are
just too small for a bigger lathe. Get lots of O-rings for drive belts, you'll need 'em!
 
I'm in the start with HSS camp and learn about tool geometry, even if you wind up using carbides you'll still need to grind HSS at some point for custom work/shapes, I personally am not that fond of the quick change tooling, I find they just take up to much room ( I do see why people like them, it's just a personal opinion ) I made 2 turret style tool posts custom for my machine, when the tool goes in it's at the perfect center height, one for 3/16 and the other for 1/4, when and if you decide to go for carbide inserts the holders are not that challenging to make, the ones in the photo's are a couple I've made, I made my boring bar holders so they go in at the proper center height as well, a turret style tool post can be made completely on your lathe if that style suits you.
Have fun learning
:))
AIR_20140526_00004.jpgAIR_20140526_00005.jpg

AIR_20140526_00004.jpg AIR_20140526_00005.jpg
 
I used 1/4 carbide insert tools on my Unimat DB with no problems. I now use them on my Taig. In fact it is actually beneficial that the spindle doesn't go slow on those lathes as carbide generally requires higher surface speeds anyway.

While the advice to use HSS bits is correct and where you should end up, in the meantime curve you will get to experience some actual cutting, which you can compare with the results of your tool grinding efforts :-)

http://www.busybeetools.com/products/T{47}TOOL-INSERT-TYPE-1{47}4IN.-5PC-SET.html for those in Canada, http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1913&category=1208242246 for US

Gerrit
 
Carbides are great, but HSS will be a necessity from time to time. Personally, I rarely use carbide tools, and do not currently even own a set of lathe tools that use inserts, though I should buy a set, there are times when they come in handy. I frequently machine stainless steel with HSS tools without any problem, though I do need to touch them up more often.

The recommendation to start out with HSS is a good one, and you will learn much about machine tool operation from grinding your own lathe tools. You will make mistakes, which will seem frustrating, but you will also learn from them.

I would also highly recommend Lyle Peterson's (TubalCain) how-to videos on YouTube. He is a retired high school shop teacher, and he presents material in an open friendly manner, and he makes things easily to understand. Here is a link to his first lathe tool grinding video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrDr4rYLiAk There are several to cover the different types of lathe tool bits.

He has a directory of his videos located here: http://www.neme-s.org/Tubalcain/machine_shop_tips.htm and we have a similar directory located here: http://www.hobby-machinist.com/vbtube.php?do=cat&id=15&o=0&page=0
 
Fantastic info everyone! Its advice I intend on following. I'm going to order a little bit of everything to start with. Mostly just to see what I like. I do feel like learning how to grind HSS is one of those skills that's a necessity to learn. It's also a skill I must learn to consider myself even a hobby machinist.
Here's a couple pics of what my lathe came with. It looks like I'm missing a few pieces. I believe I have some of the gear indexing parts but not the main piece. I've figured out what everything does except 3 parts. Maybe someone could help identify them. There the 3 pieces alone in the middle
pic. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
The item on the left is a face plate, not sure about the middle maybe scribing bolt circles , the one on the right might be a fly cutter, can you take closer pictures of the middle and right piece at a couple of angles, someone will know.:))
 
The item on the left is a face plate, not sure about the middle maybe scribing bolt circles , the one on the right might be a fly cutter, can you take closer pictures of the middle and right piece at a couple of angles, someone will know.:))


Thanks ls for the fast reply. What's the face plate used for? Here's the pics you suggested I take.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
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