Beginner purchased an Atlas 10F-- a few questions

T

toader

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Hi guys-- first official post here!

I recently bought an Atlas 10f. I wanted to buy a machine to learn more about machining and increase my capabilities.

A few questions that have come up:

Is the countershaft pulley that's driven by the motor pressed on?

The cross feed moves back and forth quite a bit-- is this gib adjustment or do I need a new nut?

How do I adjust the machine so it drills on center?

What kind of 4 jaw chuck do I need to get?

Hopefully I'll learn from your answers and be able to help newbies out one day, too!

Thanks everyone
Toader
 
toader said:
Hi guys-- first official post here!

I recently bought an Atlas 10f. I wanted to buy a machine to learn more about machining and increase my capabilities.

A few questions that have come up:

Is the countershaft pulley that's driven by the motor pressed on?

The large step pulley on the countershaft is only held on by a set screw. Likely covered in dirt etc.

The cross feed moves back and forth quite a bit-- is this gib adjustment or do I need a new nut?

There will be backlash even on new machines. Check that the screw that you can see on the front of the cross slide is not loose. It hold the nut. There will be wear on the brass cross slide nut and a varying amount on the cross slide leadscrew. You should replace as a set if required.

How do I adjust the machine so it drills on center?

There are adjusting screws on both side of the tailstock. Place a dead/live center In the tailstock and the headstock. Bring them close together and adjust the tailstock into alignment using those two screws near the bottom of the tailstock. One on both sides. The previous owner might have made a mark that shows the approximate line up as well.

What kind of 4 jaw chuck do I need to get?

You will need a 6" 4J that has either a threaded back or a plain back plus a threaded backing plate to match. A 5" 3J is the other chuck most users have. On the 3J buy one that has reversible jaws.

Hopefully I'll learn from your answers and be able to help newbies out one day, too!

Thanks everyone
Toader
Click to expand...

Answers are mixed in the your questions.
Pierre
 
Welcome to the forums. I too am an atlas 10f owner. Mine is a th54. Pictures of yours please?

May I suggest you post some pictures and even a youtube of the play in your cross slide.

Why do you need to mess with the pulley? I found mine very hard to move on the shaft. Could be a burr because there is a set screw on it.

Drill on center would mean aligning the tailstock. if your talking out of alignment on the horizontal. There are 2 screws on the tailstock you adjust to move forward and back. I think there is a youtube about aligning your lathe centers on mrpete222's site. I think he showed 3 different ways to do it. I do it by mounting a long piece, turn it, indicate both ends, adjust accordingly, take another cut and indicate it again.

You need a 4way chuck that fits and is in reasonable shape. But in reality you don't need one till you need one. I have a 6" and just acquired an 8" for mine. Need to make a backplate which will happen over the summer most likely. I don't need it yet, but the time was right to acquire it.

What tooling do you have? Pics man, we need pics. :whistle:

Here's mine cranking out a new drawbar for my benchtop mill.

[video=youtube;mmaqK4VtulY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmaqK4VtulY[/video]

toader said:
Hi guys-- first official post here!

I recently bought an Atlas 10f. I wanted to buy a machine to learn more about machining and increase my capabilities.

A few questions that have come up:

Is the countershaft pulley that's driven by the motor pressed on?

The cross feed moves back and forth quite a bit-- is this gib adjustment or do I need a new nut?

How do I adjust the machine so it drills on center?

What kind of 4 jaw chuck do I need to get?

Hopefully I'll learn from your answers and be able to help newbies out one day, too!

Thanks everyone
Toader
Click to expand...
 
A little more on this:

There are adjusting screws on both side of the tailstock. Place a dead/live center In the tailstock and the headstock. Bring them close together and adjust the tailstock into alignment using those two screws near the bottom of the tailstock. One on both sides. The previous owner might have made a mark that shows the approximate line up as well.
Click to expand...

First make certain the tailstock ram is not wiggling in it's bore. If it is loose cure that first.

Then when bringing the two points together slip a strip of thin metal stock or a thin rule horizontally between them then make final advance with the TS crank to gently pinch the metal strip. If it swings right or left the TS needs to be adjusted front-to back. Do it again with the metal strip or thin rule verticle. If the top of the strip tips right the TS needs to be shimmed up between the upper and lower castings, if it tips left you can shim the headstock up slightly. These two adjustments may effect each other at least until one is right on. Do the horizontal test and adjustment first. If you then need to shim either HS or TS up then do the horizontal test again.

A note on bed wear:
Most lathe work is done close to the headstock. This is where the bed will be worn on the top front 1/2" where the carriage slides. The back way will be worn also but more on the verticle and bottom surfaces at the back. Cutting action pushes the spindle up and back while pushing the carriage forward, down in front, and up in back.

The two tests I discussed above should not be impacted by bed wear because the wear is where the carriage slides, not where the TS fits on the inner 1/2 width of the ways.

This may be splitting hairs, these lathes are known for longevity. Mine was manufactured in 1935 and it will turn within .001 - .002 for it's full 24" between centers. But I think it is important for the beginner with an old lathe to know.
 
Wow guys! Thanks for the quick and thorough replies. Hopefully I'll be able to get working again soon. I was busy all day plowing driveways after this massive storm. I will also be travelling for the long weekend...

However, when I return I expect to see a few packages! I ordered some tooling, a QCTP, a spindle dead center, and a few other odds and ends that were missing from my machine.

I'll try to post pics soon.. I have been having difficulty with my phone.

Some background on the machine:
I found the machine on craigslist for $600. I went to go see it and thought it looked pretty good; however, I knew it was going to be a project but I was up for the challenge. I talked him down to $400. It came with: lots of HSS tooling bits (most look like junk), a 3 jaw, dead center, a steady rest (not original/ needs to be milled to fit), I believe 5 old style tool holders that fit in the lantern tool post, gears, and two heavy Seneca Falls cast iron legs.

Maybe I paid too much but at least I am enjoying myself and learning.
 
I think you got a great deal at $400. Did you get all the change gears with it?

Your going to need to mill out the compound a bit to allow the QC toolpost to rotate.

Here's a vid of me milling mine out on my drill press.

[video=youtube_share;fK1wQwrnCa4]http://youtu.be/fK1wQwrnCa4[/video]
 
a few observations: When I want to center drill a rod,I let it stick out of the chuck just a little bit. That way I am getting the drill more accurately centered than letting the rod stick out several inches. It may not be important on this particular job. But,keeping good work habits is worthwhile. Especially if you are making a video that newbies may take as instructional.

Next,even on my Bridgeport type mill,I only let the spindle hang out a minimum amount,not 4" or so. Obviously,this allows the spindle to remain more rigidly held. It helps the cutter be less apt to grab or break,and being rigidly held,helps the cutter stay sharp for longer,even on a large machine. And,certainly so in a drill press. It also helps the cutter mill a groove that is its true diameter,rather than wobbling one and milling a larger diameter(If that is important).
 
Thanks for the info George. I kew I was hanging my spindle out way too much, but I could only mount my vise on the base, if I put it on the table I could not machine the part. I should have put something under the vise to raise it up.

george wilson said:
a few observations: When I want to center drill a rod,I let it stick out of the chuck just a little bit. That way I am getting the drill more accurately centered than letting the rod stick out several inches. It may not be important on this particular job. But,keeping good work habits is worthwhile. Especially if you are making a video that newbies may take as instructional.

Next,even on my Bridgeport type mill,I only let the spindle hang out a minimum amount,not 4" or so. Obviously,this allows the spindle to remain more rigidly held. It helps the cutter be less apt to grab or break,and being rigidly held,helps the cutter stay sharp for longer,even on a large machine. And,certainly so in a drill press. It also helps the cutter mill a groove that is its true diameter,rather than wobbling one and milling a larger diameter(If that is important).
Click to expand...
 
Can you easily lower the head of the drill press? Looks like a pretty light weight one. What's the matter with the table? Won't stay put?
 
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