Barrel Threading

jmhoying

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H-M Supporter Gold Member
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I have a suppressor ordered for my Ruger 10/22 and since the barrel doesn't have threads to mount it, I decided to purchase a spare barrel from eBay to thread. After a practice run on some scrap material, I got up the courage to thread the barrel today. I used a 4 jaw chuck and dialed in the barrel using a pin gauge that was inserted in the barrel. I'm very happy with with how it came out.

3.JPG

Nice fit for the thread protector
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Bluing complete
4.JPG

Original barrel and the newly threaded barrel.
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Jack
 
I have a suppressor ordered for my Ruger 10/22 and since the barrel doesn't have threads to mount it, I decided to purchase a spare barrel from eBay to thread. After a practice run on some scrap material, I got up the courage to thread the barrel today. I used a 4 jaw chuck and dialed in the barrel using a pin gauge that was inserted in the barrel. I'm very happy with with how it came out.

View attachment 398407

Nice fit for the thread protector
View attachment 398410

Bluing complete
View attachment 398408

Original barrel and the newly threaded barrel.
View attachment 398409

Jack
Just know that you'll prob won't have the same accuracy that you had before, for one, you've opened up the bore some now from removing the material for the threading of the device you're putting on it and two, the suppressor will change the tune on the barrel. Thirdly, you'll have to rezero the scope and put more elevation on it most likely due to the added weight
 
Just know that you'll prob won't have the same accuracy that you had before, for one, you've opened up the bore some now from removing the material for the threading of the device you're putting on it and two, the suppressor will change the tune on the barrel. Thirdly, you'll have to rezero the scope and put more elevation on it most likely due to the added weight

It looks like all he did is slightly chamfer the end of the bore. I would say the effects on accuracy is not measurable. It's just a .22. The variations between the number of particles of powder in each load will probably effect accuracy more that the chamfer.
 
It looks like all he did is slightly chamfer the end of the bore. I would say the effects on accuracy is not measurable. It's just a .22. The variations between the number of particles of powder in each load will probably effect accuracy more that the chamfer.
the removing of metal will open the bore, rimfire barrels have "choke" in them and the choke will be opened up when you thread a barrel for a device. the chamfer you are referring to, should not have any effect, this is true. Some barrel makers don't put choke in the barrel anymore, so some will order a barrel larger in dia. then is needed on the chamber end of the barrel so that they can reduce it prior to chambering it. This will induce a tapered choke in the bore.
 
the removing of metal will open the bore, rimfire barrels have "choke" in them and the choke will be opened up when you thread a barrel for a device. the chamfer you are referring to, should not have any effect, this is true. Some barrel makers don't put choke in the barrel anymore, so some will order a barrel larger in dia. then is needed on the chamber end of the barrel so that they can reduce it prior to chambering it. This will induce a tapered choke in the bore.
It does look like it in the photos, but I didn’t touch the end of the barrel. While I do believe that your suggestion that the barrel accuracy will change some because a change in “tuning”, i don’t feel that the 6 oz suppressor will effect to much degree. I don’t think a relatively heavy wall .22 barrel will change internal dimension by removing a bit of external metal. At least not to the degree that these barrels were mass produced. It’s just a .22, not a 50 cal shooting 6000’.
 
It does look like it in the photos, but I didn’t touch the end of the barrel. While I do believe that your suggestion that the barrel accuracy will change some because a change in “tuning”, i don’t feel that the 6 oz suppressor will effect to much degree. I don’t think a relatively heavy wall .22 barrel will change internal dimension by removing a bit of external metal. At least not to the degree that these barrels were mass produced. It’s just a .22, not a 50 cal shooting 6000’.
@Hozzie whom is a RF BR shooter, can explain all of this very well.. i have delved into the world of RF BR shooting for about 3 years.. i don't play that game anymore, i shoot RF F-Class, having won 5 matches and a Regional last year.. i am not a plinker!
And yes, on a factory 20" taper'd barrel, 6 ounces is a lot
 
I've threaded a few barrels but never had the balls to do it with single point threading. I turned the barrel end down to size and then used a 1/2"-28 die for the threading.
 
I've threaded a few barrels but never had the balls to do it with single point threading. I turned the barrel end down to size and then used a 1/2"-28 die for the threading.
I thought about that, but was more worried about starting the die straight than I was with single point threading. The barrel metal was softer than I would of guessed, so my finish wasn’t as clean as I’d of liked. It’s definitely good enough for my intended use.
 
Looking good! I gotta get on board the $200 tax stamp train while it's still possible. Question, why didn't you crown the barrel? Even with a suppressor, the 11-degree crown with a crisp break at the bore should help. That 45 degree break looks pretty wide, reminds me of an old wartime Mauser or service revolver. Are you using this barrel for RF target competition?
 
The barrel certainly opened up when you turned the diameter down. It being a factory 10/22 barrel, I wouldn't expect you lost any real accuracy as we would notice in BR, but there is probably some measurable change. More critically, 6oz will absolutely have a noticeable impact. It could be good, it could be bad, or honestly you may not notice it, but it is a lot of extra weight on that size and profile of barrel.

For plinking, it doesn't really matter. If you were competing in something like PRS it could be more impactful, but for what it is, it isn't worth worrying about. If it shoot's noticeably bad. then it is more likely the weight of the suppressor than the threading, but when you start making multiple changes it's sometimes hard tell and all you can do it change one thing at a time. Shoot it without the suppressor as a baseline and then compare with the suppressor.

Ammo quality will ultimately probably have a bigger impact on that rifle.
 
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