Band saw question

[churchjw]

So last weekend I got a new, to me, JET gold 14" band saw. I had been looking at their wood/metal working model but the price on this one, which is wood cutting speed only, was to good to pass up ($250.00). The guy that owned it took very good care of it. He sold it because he got a bigger saw. I will be changing it up to get lower FPS out of so I can cut harder metals. However, in the mean time I need to make a new throat plate for it. The current one has miles of room around the blade and I like mine very close to the blade.

So my question what is the best material to make band saw throat plates out of? In the past I have used aluminum and clear acrylic. Both have worked well. Has anyone made one out of steel or does this cause problems. Brass is also an option. One of the things this one has that my old smaller band saw didn't is it has a role pin on the lip that the throat plate sets on. The idea is that the pin fits in a notch on the throat plate and keeps the plate from rotating into the blade when you are cutting. I have never used a band saw that has this pin so I'm not sure how well it works (anyone have an opinion on it?) I was thinking of removing the pin tapping the hole and putting a pan head bolt counter sunk into the throat plate. This would secure the plate better but still make it easily removable.

Any thoughts on this or band saw upgrades in general would be helpful. )

Jeff

 

[donthack]

I would stick with the softer metals. If your guide bearings get some play it will not be so detrimental to your blade. The countersunk screws are the way to go if your serious about holding the tight tolerances.

 

[stevec]

Jeff, have you looked into how much reduction you need for bandsawing steel? You'll also need a bimetal blade.
Just rely on the roll pin keeping the insert from turning, mine always has.
And aluminum is fine for the insert, I can't think of any reason to go to another metal.

 

[churchjw]

Thanks for everyone's advice. I decided to stick with the existing pin and not put a hold down bolt. Well ok I drove the original out and re drilled to a .125 which was just a little larger than the on that was in it. The original was cracked and I have a box of .125 role pins.



I cut some stock after I was done and it worked perfectly. I think I will redo it and make the cut for the blade from the back not the front. That way the cut will be shorter. This plate goes in with just a slight tap with the hammer and does not move.

Jeff

 

[Scopx]

UHMW-high lubricity(slick), tough and inexpensive. Google it.

 

[8ntsane]

Looks like you scored a nice saw for that price!
Ya done good

Paul

 

[Tom Griffin]

Jeff,

Good looking saw and at $250, a good buy. It looks very similar to the 40's vintage Delta that I have.

One thing I don't see in the photos is stick wax. If you wax the blade before cutting aluminum it literally cuts like butter. I keep a stick on my saw at all times.

Tom

 

[churchjw]

Hi Tom

I use wax when I cut with a jewelers saw but never thought to use it with the band saw. GREAT idea. What kind of wax do use use and do you have any problem with it getting on the tires?

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[Tom Griffin]

Jeff,

I get it from McMaster Carr. I think it's a blend of beeswax and paraffin and it comes in a cardboard tube. If you click on the stick wax link in my last post, it will take you to the right page in the MC catalog. No problem with the tires.

Tom