Bad bearings? Dah Lih circa 1976 Taiwanese

Ropata

Ropata

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I was trying to avoid pulling the vertical head apart but now I have doubts about the bearings. Could anyone tell from the video if in fact they are buggered and maybe from the photos how the hell I get in there?20170809_163210.jpg 20170809_163244.jpg
 
G'Day Ropata,
sorry,
you have bad bearings by the sound and look :(
 
That cogging feeling is probably due to "brinelling", where the balls have indented the race; every time a ball engages one of those dents it catches. The excessive axial play suggests the cage for the bearings are excessively worn. This all means the bearings are toast as Ulma Doc said.

Not sure of the screw in the side of the quill but I would guess it is a guide pin for the R8 collet.

Haven't changed bearings in that mill but someone will be along shortly, I'm sure.
 
i have not replaced the bearings on that mill, but it appears to have a lock ring (nut) that uses a spanner wrench to remove it.
in picture 2 you can see a hole in the lock ring (nut). that's were the pin from the spanner wrench is inserted.
after you get the ring off, the spindle assembly appears to be removed from the pulley side, taking care not to damage the threads.
i hope the information is helpful
 
mikey said:
Not sure of the screw in the side of the quill but I would guess it is a guide pin for the R8 collet.
Click to expand...
Looks like it is a 30 taper spindle. I also do not see how it comes apart. Perhaps take out the quill lock completely which may let the spindle/quill combination all come out together. Probably would need to remove the feed shaft and pinion as well. Also, what does the ring of socket head cap screws around the upper bearing hold?
 
Bob Korves said:
Looks like it is a 30 taper spindle. I also do not see how it comes apart. Perhaps take out the quill lock completely which may let the spindle/quill combination all come out together. Probably would need to remove the feed shaft and pinion as well. Also, what does the ring of socket head cap screws around the upper bearing hold?
Click to expand...
Yeah I'm really not sure about the ring of cap heads, there is a ring of 4 big ones which are really confusing as there is no joint in the casting or anything there. The small ring close to the top bearing must hold the assembly together.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
Bob Korves said:
Looks like it is a 30 taper spindle. I also do not see how it comes apart. Perhaps take out the quill lock completely which may let the spindle/quill combination all come out together. Probably would need to remove the feed shaft and pinion as well. Also, what does the ring of socket head cap screws around the upper bearing hold?
Click to expand...

Just shows you how much I know.
 
I got the whole quill out. The top bearing I hope to remedy by tightening the spline sleeve. Do you guys think it's worth pulling the top bearings too? I'm just worried they are pressed into the casting and I have no easy way of pressing them in or out.
 
Ropata said:
I got the whole quill out. The top bearing I hope to remedy by tightening the spline sleeve. Do you guys think it's worth pulling the top bearings too?
Click to expand...

If I'm visualizing correctly, the 'top bearing' longitudinal play doesn't affect the spindle cut
depth, it could be completely normal. Look up the drawings, it's possible there
is a shimmed pair or other take-out-the-play adjustment. It could be a shim got damaged
or backing nut slipped, and bearings are fine.

Considering other damage was found, though, prophylactic bearing replacement is mainly a wallet decision.
 
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