Auto Woes

[RJSakowski]

A few weeks ago, my Dodge Grand Caravan started becoming finicky about starting. The problem seems to be the ignition switch. The scuttlebutt is that the dealer repair will be over $1K. I am able to start it by jiggling the key fob while tuning between the off and start positions but it is disconcerting in that with cold weather approaching, I could be left stranded with no way to start the car. Older versions used a mechanical switch with a printed circuit used for the contacts. The contact surface would become worn , dirty, or corroded causing the failure. It appears that the newer style, used in my vehicle, has no contacts and may be using Hall effect switches instead.

To add to the issue, removal of the ignition switch, known as a WIN or wireless ignition node, requires removal of the entire dash to gain access to the mounting screws, no doubt the reason for the high repair cost. Several You Tubers have posted videos of how it can be done with a partial loosening of the dash which looks feasible.

To further complicate matters, you can't buy a replacement module as the module has to be programmed to the key fobs, aka FOBIK's, and the to the on board computer by a MOPAR dealer. There are repair services offered where you send your module and key fobs and for $150 to $300, they will repair the module and return it plug and play. The issue is the vehicle is disable for about two weeks while this takes place and if you are wrong about the diagnosis and it lies elsewhere, you are out a minimum of over $100 plus the wait time and could still have to pay a visit to the dealer. AARGH

 

[matthewsx]

Tearing out the dash? No thanks....

For me it would come down to how well the car runs now and how long you think it'll be worth driving.

If it was fairly new and under 200k miles I would probably pay for the repair. What's $1000? Two car payments?

However, I think I remember you say you live in a place where it snows. Do they salt the road? Checking the floorboards might be in order.

I certainly wouldn't want to be driving an unreliable car in the up north wintertime. If other things are also likely to start going wrong with it then maybe it's time to go shopping. Don't know what your circumstances are but if my wife were stranded in a snowstorm and I could have done something to prevent it....

Well, you get the picture.

John

 

[RandyWilson]

Welcome to the ever evolving world of vehicle security. WIN and Fobik imply the old system borrowed from Mercedes.

 

[RJSakowski]

I bought the car in 2016 after I retired with the intent that it last the rest of my life (or at least my driving ability). It has 33K miles on it as of today with most of that in summer sunshine. I keep it out of the weather and try very hard not to drive during or soon after a snow storm (dry roads only) and wash the undercarriage as soon as feasible if doing so can't be avoided.

If I have to pay for a dealer repair, I will but it really rankles me to do so. Not so much that the dealer charges that but that the manufacturer designed a system where it requires the better part of $1K in labor to fix.

 

[matthewsx]

Sounds like you have your answer. Could probably figure out how to DIY but wouldn’t you rather spend your time doing something else.

John

 

[RandyWilson]

This is actually a fairly simple system compared to the latest. The system will be tamper resistant (aka hidden inaccessible hardware) and the software side will be under strict control. They do not have to, nor want to, release any of the security access to the general public. Dealer only, with some also allowing licensed locksmiths access. It doesn't matter what brand. The newer, the more complex.

 

[extropic]

It seems to be the way of the world. I regret that we Baby Boomers allowed things to get so far out of hand.

 

[coolidge]

I bought the car in 2016 after I retired with the intent that it last the rest of my life (or at least my driving ability). It has 33K miles on it as of today with most of that in summer sunshine. I keep it out of the weather and try very hard not to drive during or soon after a snow storm (dry roads only) and wash the undercarriage as soon as feasible if doing so can't be avoided.

If I have to pay for a dealer repair, I will but it really rankles me to do so. Not so much that the dealer charges that but that the manufacturer designed a system where it requires the better part of $1K in labor to fix.

That failed at only 33k miles? I have owned many FCA (Ram trucks) vehicles over the years. I consider them throw away vehicles. They don't last and FCA doesn't stand behind them and will stick you with their shoddy product and repairs. If you only keep them 3-4 years that's fine as they used to be less expensive than Ford or GMC. But you have to know when to pull the rip cord and get rid of them. I just traded in my 2021 Ram Rebel 4x4 as it was beginning to fall apart.

 

[westerner]

They don't last

My municipality gave up on "Mopar" quite a few years back. Between the sloppy engineering and the lack of factory training, our dealer could not keep our fleet on the road. Since I left that world in late 2020, it ain't got no better.

 

[projectnut]

I bought the car in 2016 after I retired with the intent that it last the rest of my life (or at least my driving ability). It has 33K miles on it as of today with most of that in summer sunshine. I keep it out of the weather and try very hard not to drive during or soon after a snow storm (dry roads only) and wash the undercarriage as soon as feasible if doing so can't be avoided.

If I have to pay for a dealer repair, I will but it really rankles me to do so. Not so much that the dealer charges that but that the manufacturer designed a system where it requires the better part of $1K in labor to fix.

To you and me $1,000.00 is a hefty bill for an auto repair. Unfortunately, today it's not only not uncommon but considered "cheap" for most repairs. Back in 2008 we purchased a Buick Lucerne. Like you we didn't put that many miles on it, but it seemed to fall apart on a regular basis. Everything from door handles falling off to memory seats losing their memory, heated window washer reservoirs that were defective, blind spot indicators that worked when they wanted to, and the list goes on. The worst part was that every time something failed the estimate to repair it was always $1,600.00 or more. We finally had enough of it and got rid of the beast.

The current hourly rate for mechanical repairs at our local Ford and GM automobile dealerships is $149.00 per hour. When we had the transmission replaced in our motorhome last month at a Minneapolis Ford Commercial dealership, they were charging $289.00 per hour. To put things in perspective when I owned a couple service stations in the 1970's labor rates for independent garages were between $15.00 and $20.00 per hour, and you could buy premium gas for $.52 a gallon. Dealerships were charging $20.00 to $25.00 an hour