Atlas lathe 10d restoration

[Cobrage401]

Hello all

I thought I'd post my progress with a 10D resurrection.

First I'm not a machinist or a professional restoration expert. I'm a tinkerer at best lol and this lathe is being resurrected for myself and isn't being done for profit.

With that said I can use any help and or suggestions, support, comments during this project. Please remember this resurrection is to place the lathe back into service and when possible keeping it original however after market, modifications and alike will probably be done and may not sit in some of the purists eyes well.

My good friend was visiting from Ohio for conference in Florida were I live and understood that I was struggling with my small HF lathe and give me this. Thank you!!!

Sorry the only photos of the machine all intact are below for I have already disassembled and started. I will show photos of the sections before during and after. Hopefully you will all enjoy watching this project and will have plenty of comments!!!

Thanks all!!
Dave

 

[Cobrage401]

Bellow are the completed photos of the three jaw Craftsman chuck. Sorry again didnt have the before photo however it looks like the attached Craftsman 4 Jaw chuck below.

 

[RYAN S]

Nice work on my the 3 jaw!! Looking forward to seeing the rest of the restoration!

Ryan

 

[Boswell]

Welcome to the forums. Keep the pictures coming. Looking forward to seeing your progress.

 

[Cobrage401]

Thanks all!!

Today's mission was to place a final coat of paint to the top section of the tailstock. I'm waiting for it to dry and will post the completed tailstock probably tomorrow.

Second mission was to clean the base. The ways look pretty good with what I would say normal were and should be ok... we will see when it's all done.

If you can see in the photos the gray or light blue color is apparently the factor primer. It looks like the same red primer used on other casting of the day.

Well time to clean myself up and take my old man nap so I can do more work tonight...

Forgot... the bottom looks just like the top so I didnt bother with a photo. Just need to clean the inside now. Ideally this should have been done with a soda blaster however I dont have one so I use the die grinder and some Krud Kutter.

 

[Cobrage401]

Rack Removal:

As I progress I will post some of the challenges I come across that will hopefully help others like myself working on a Atlas lathe. I'd imagine that some of the obstacles will correspond with other Atlas lathe for they are all similarly different lol..

I had a hard time removing the rack from the bed. I removed all the screws and it wouldn't come off. I found that under all the dirt and crude the rack has two pins at each end that will need to be removed then it will come off easily. I have placed a photo showing one end of the rack pin location and the other is on the other end of the rack.

I dont have and I'm unable to locate a 10D manual and if someone has one I'd appreciate a copy!! ... I have the 10F manual that has some mention to the 10D however the pins for the rack aren't showing in the manual.

Dave

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Cobrage401]

123 Blocks:

Well a bit off topic however I received today the below 123 blocks from Amazon and they look pretty good. Only $22.00 so I'm not expecting Brown and Sharpe quality however looks well worth the low price. One complaint that was well documented is the 3/8 holes that aren't threaded are two small for a 3/8 bolt lol... the thread holes work just fine with the 3/8 bolts.

Dave

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[Cobrage401]

Tailstock:

Below are the almost completed tailstock photos. You will notice I haven't done anything with the handle for the handle knob is broken off and also the handle knob is about to break off on the ram lockdown handle ontop. I will need to find replacements. Unfortunately this appears to be a common problem for it appears the handle knobs are made out of cast. It also appears the knobs are pressed in.... more to follow with this problem.

Let's talk about the tailstock and some of the obstacles I encountered.

Painting:

First I'm no painter! I dont have a spray both or a spray gun so this is done outside with spray cans. I wanted to obviously remove all the rust however I do like the paint over casting look however I cant stand looking at poor cast machine marks in the casting and the tailstock is full of them. I wanted to find a happy place in between paint over cast and no tooling gouges. I used bondo to cover the very bad sections and leaving the other sections untouched. The final peace was bondo, sand, prime, sand, prime, sand, paint, sand, paint, sand, clearcoat, sand, clearcoat, sand then a final coating of paint. This process will be done over the entire project I believe. I used self etching primer and smoke gray enamel paint.

Bolts:

Looking at the photo you can see some bolts and a brass washer/bushing. The large bolt that clamps the tailstock to the ways was bent and replaced with a grade 8 bolt, washer and nut. The two small tapered head screws are apparently used to adjust the tailstock gib. When the gib wears down it looks like you can make-up the difference pushing the gib closer to the ways. Using them I wasn't able to place the tailstock on the ways so we will see if I need them during final assembly and alignment. The brass washer was missing from the top handle that clamps the ram down so it was made on my not so working HF lathe lol. Interesting that the manual ( 10-F manual not the 10-D manual ) shows two of the adjustment screws. One is 2" long and the other is 3" long. I had to make a new 3" long adjustment screw for the original was bent however I dont know why it's that long for it's dangling out the back. I will probably cut some off after final alignment.

Ram assembly:

When disassembling the ram from the tailstock I had a difficult removing it. I didn't think much of it until reassembly when it wouldn't go back into place lol. Well the problem was when the top holes were made for the ram locking unit they forgot to deburrer it. Dont know how it ever worked! Also strange is the second hole ontop next to the ram locking unit. This hole in the manual shows a oil dropper however I don't know what it oils for it just a hole in the casting and dosen't have a path to the inside of the casting were the ram is.




Dave

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

 

[coffmajt]

123 Blocks:

Well a bit off topic however I received today the below 123 blocks from Amazon and they look pretty good. Only $22.00 so I'm not expecting Brown and Sharpe quality however looks well worth the low price. One complaint that was well documented is the 3/8 holes that aren't threaded are two small for a 3/8 bolt lol... the thread holes work just fine with the 3/8 bolts.

Dave

Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk

Even though these blocks are hard, the unthreaded holes can be enlarged to 3/8 with a carbide drill. Makes set ups easier and easily done == Jack

 

[Cobrage401]

Even though these blocks are hard, the unthreaded holes can be enlarged to 3/8 with a carbide drill. Makes set ups easier and easily done == Jack

Thanks Jack I thought of that also. Will give it a try sometime soon.