Are these parts repairable?

Flanders

Flanders

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First off I have two lathes (1.5 actually). A complete Utility model like the pic below and an earlier model without a drive (lower pic).
Both have the better tool mount.
img17a.jpg
DSC00111a.jpg

The utility model arrived with three broken parts: lead screw mount, large pulley and drive pulley.
broken parts.jpg
Are the parts repairable given the zamac material? I was thinking JB weld. Would that be strong enough?

I was going to use parts off the earlier one to fix the Utility model but the older one looks to be in better condition.
I haven't checked the ways yet so that will be a factor.
I don't think either has a power crossfeed.

I only have one drive unit so the other will be sold as is or parts because I don't really want to chase down parts for another one.

Suggestions and comments are welcome.
 
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A lot depends on what tools and skills you have to work with.
For the larger drive sheave, I would machine the broken spokes off and turn an ID on the remaining sheave(s) portion. Then turn a new central hub of aluminum with 360° faying surfaces to the sheave(s). There would be plenty of bond area for the right epoxy to hold the two together.
For the spindle sheave, I don't think there's enough surface area, at the break, for any epoxy to effect a durable repair. However, maybe a 360° disc, contoured to mate well and bonded to the outside of the sheave might back-up the broken portion, adding enough surface area for an epoxy to be durable.
For the leadscrew mount, buy a replacement or make a new one. It's easy enough to try epoxy but, from what I see in the photo, I wouldn't have much confidence in it. For a second opinion, add another photo of the opposite side of the two hole base.

Edit: Never mind the second photo. I see the other side in the catalog image you provided. I think you need a replacement leadscrew mount. It seems to carry thrust bearings opposing the axial thrust of the leadscrew. I don't think there's enough there to attach reinforcement
to. Nothing is impossible but, it looks easier to make a replacement.
 
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On the lead screw mount, it is common to find them broken. I replaced mine with an aluminum one i found on Ebay. it was much better than the original.
 
@Awround I saw the thread on your sheave repair - I may try that once I get one running.
@Nutfarmer I did see them on ebay and it looks like an easy part to make. I have access to all kinds of metal and machines at work.

I think at this point I will concentrate on getting one running then work on the other.

Is there any other documentation besides the Lathe Operation (I have an original printing 1937) manual? A quick look only shows one picture of the Utility Lathe drive mounting. Motor and countershaft bracket mount to the table, not the lathe.

Have to work out a table first and clean up and paint the countershaft assembly. Motor should only need a quick wipe down.

I guess this will turn into a restore thread. Pics to follow.
 
There are a lot of prints and documents in the down load section on this web site. Wa5cab is our resident expert on anything Atlas. He is quite knowledgeable in the subject.
 
I had a pulley problem on an old horizontal mill. There wasn't enough room for a JB Weld repair (poor design). Your spoke looks a lot more repairable with epoxy. I ended up making a brace that screwed together. It worked.
 
The pulley with the chunk missing out of the side of one of the grooves can probably be repaired the same way that the smaller one was.

You can try the glue on the 2-step countershaft pulley with the broken spokes but I don't think that you will ever get the pulley balanced or running without wobble. The current version of that pulley has a solid center with four large (about 2" diameter) lightening holes cut in the web. If the grooved OD portion of it is not cracked, my suggestion would be to find a lathe large enough and mount the pulley on it in a 4-jaw or 6-jaw chuck. Then bore the spoked center out and make a new solid center and hub to press in. I think that you should bore the holes for and insert 6 or 8 roll pins to hold the thing together.

Note that you will need to cut the hub and most of the spokes out with a sabre saw or something before you commence the boring operation. Else if you treat it as a straight boring job, when you cut through the spokes and they and the hub fall free, they will probably hang on the cutter and destroy the good part before you can get the lathe stopped.
 
If you do it the way that I described above, I would hold off finish machining the hub and the hole for the countershaft until you finish installing the new hub and web and then do that part of the job.
 
New aluminum pulleys aren’t that expensive. I searched EBay and found good replacements for around 25.00
fwiw, I tried to repair mine on my Atlas 618, but they wobbled too much.
 
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