Anyone Have A Hobart 300/200 Ac/dc #500560?

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ome

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Hi everyone,
My intention was to buy a miller thunderbolt 225/150 , and saw online an ad from waltmart sold by wayfair, a larger model, 300/200.
I place the order and 8 hours later received an email saing that the order never ship because it was out of stock.
Miller stopped making them awhile ago, and when talking to the miller rep, he mentioned the Hobart stickmate 300/200, same machine as the miller , but with double overload protection, where the miller had none.
How do you like burning E6010 5P ?
I have a 50 amp breaker with # 6 wire , is that enough to run this welder, never would need to run at top end.
Thanks much for any advice,
Ome
 
There are lots of these 'buzz box' welders on the used market for 1/3 or less of the new price and you can probably find exactly what you're looking for within a week on your local Craigslist.

The most prevalent may be the Lincoln 225 (which also has an AC/DC cousin) and it's a fine unit, often selling for $75-100. The only downside is it has stepped output switching rather than continuously variable. Sometimes you want to 'fine tune' the welding current and the fixed steps of the Lincoln don't allow that.

The units with a continuous dial (like the Miller Thunderbolt) allow fine tweaking of the weld.

An older unit may have copper windings instead of aluminum and be a better value. Generally, with transformer welders like these, the heavier the better. Try the machine before you buy it, or don't pay a lot for an untested machine. They are pretty bulletproof but better safe than sorry.

These smaller welders have a lower duty cycle as the weld current goes up - so at 225 amps you may be welding for 2 minutes, cooling for 8 and then repeat. Not a big deal, it's rare to be able to weld continuously since you're always repositioning the work, changing sticks, inspecting the weld progress and putting out the small fire on your pant leg. (Well, maybe not too many pant leg fires, OK?)

When you get a welder be sure to also get the appropriate PPE. A good hood with flip up lens or an electronic hood, leather gloves and a set of leather sleeves and don't wear pants with cuffs. Sparks go everywhere and these sparks are generally larger bits of really hot metal that can do some serious burning. I have a few scars to prove it. Wear safety glasses under the hood so when you flip it up to remove slag or inspect the weld you're still protected.

The 50A breaker is probably fine - just be sure it's a 'thermal' type rather than 'magnetic' so it allows for surges without nuisance tripping. Because of the duty cycle mentioned above the average current used is well below the breaker rating. I think there's a special note in the National Electric Code about circuits supplying welding machines but I may be mistaken. It's been a while since I've perused the volume.

Have fun

Stu
 
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Thank you Stu, very much,
You gave me alot of great information. One of my main concern is safety, as I plan on setting up an exhaust 12-16" away from the action, with a fan bringing in air as the exhaust takes the smoke and gases outside.
The safety glasses is a great idea, and I plan on wearing a half resperator with the p-100 by miller.
I put up hardy backerboard on all the interior walls, up to the ceiling, leaving the ceiling unfinished for now.
My question is, in the beginning learning process, when welding on a table, about how high do the sparks and slag travel?
Is it safer to section off a area for welding , with welding blankets or a welding screen from northern tool?
Thanks ,
Raf
 
I have one of the Miller Thunderbolt welders, AC-DC, as you described earlier. I bought it new in 1989 and it is still going strong. If you can find one of those used in decent shape, jump on it, you won't be sorry.

A 50 amp breaker is plenty for that welder, I've never tripped mine. Fifteen years back I built a roll out dock for a friend of mine at his cabin over one summer. I used the 35 amp dryer outlet in the basement (it's more of a year-round cabin) and my 100 ft extension cord (long story as to how I obtained that very expensive item for free) to do all of the welding. Luckily the material was only 3/32" thick and the welds were light. The 35 amp breaker never tripped.

As for safety, all of my welding was done outdoors on my driveway, with a small screen made from plywood so that passersby would be protected from the pretty blue light.
 
Hi Terryswerm,
How are you, it has been awhile.
As you know I am looking ti get a thunderbolt, and now considering a Hobart stickmate 300/200.
Miller discontinued the same machine 8 years ago.
I never see the larger thunderbolts for sale. Only the bigger dialarcs and idealarcs.
What type of breaker is best for a stick welder, thermal, thermal-magnetic,magnetic,or high performance?
Thanks for chiming in, be well
Ome
 
Hi Jon. I know what you mean about the Thunderbolts being hard to find, and for good reason. Those of us that have them don't let them go! Currently I can sell mine used for more than what I paid for it new, but that just shows how bad inflation has been the last 25 or 30 years. I paid $325 for it new and I see them on Craigslist from time to time for $400 to $500 used.

The larger Stickmate might be a little bit of overkill unless you plan to use your welder commercially. If you really need to weld 3/8" plate you can always do a multi-pass weld. That's what I do and it works great. The next one down in size would save you some cash on the purchase price, too if you find that you have to go new.

I have no idea what type of breaker is in my panel, only that it is the standard Cutler Hammer 50A breaker that was available for my panel when I added the welder circuit to my garage some 25 years ago.
 
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I have been using a Miller Thunderbolt 225/150 for a couple of decades now, the one I have now was bought in 1987.
AS has been mentioned by the others before me, great little boxes, indestructible.
As for welding inside a shop, I rarely do it, almost all my welding is outside, my 3 bay shop is an old blacksmith shop, wooden barn framed, I do not want to risk burning her down, just not worth it to me. I do know some guys that do it and are fine with it, though at least one has mentioned that after he is done, he likes to hang around for 1/2 hour to an hour just in case.
As for sparks from 6010 rod, I cant really comment, I haven't used 6010 in awhile, I use a decent amount of 6011, 6013, 7018. 6011 is a dirty rod by most standards, I get more burns from it than 6013. It might matter what you are welding though and how you are welding as to how much spark and how far... you'll know soon enough when you start welding.
Hope that helps.

Rich
 
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Thanks Rich,
I appreciate the advice.
Is your workshop in the wooden framed barn open, unfinished?
Just curious as to why you have not set up a screened area?
Thanks,
Jon
 
Jon
My shop is closed and finished. It used to be my grand dads saw shop before I got it, he insulated and sheetrocked it as well as bringing in electric. It keeps going thru changes, never seems to always be finished though. Even if I sectioned off an area as you suggest, I would not feel comfortable welding in a wood building so confined. My welding equipment is up towards the front of the building (mig welders and arc welders) and I am fine with setting up any welding projects in the driveway. I also have a small cabinet making section of the garage, cabinet saw, jointer, planar, router table, so in order to accommodate a decent sized assembly area. Metalworking equipment, woodworking equipment and welding in a wood structure... not good.
Even if I do the walls in cement block as I am considering, (also adding a bay) I would not feel comfortable having a fulltime welding station in their (planning to add a second floor for living quarters).
Again, just my personal opinion, others will feel differently.

HTH
Rich
 
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