Any reason not to socket the ESP32 board?

DaveInConesus

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I have some headers that would make excellent sockets for the esp32 board. They are .325" tall so a couple mm taller than the 5mm spacing called out in the instructions. Any reason not to use them? I don't think they will cause cross talk issues. Old school so I like to socket the big stuff when possible.

Dave
 
Usually one wants a socket, unless the assembly is subject to a lot of vibration. If there's a lot of vibration you should consider soldering the unit in place, or tying down the part somehow. In the old days, for prototype airborne testing, we were only allowed sockets if the parts were secured to the boards. That included big capacitors, especially if they were only attached by thin leads. Extra straps and things were encouraged. My stuff seemed to survive being launched off an aircraft carrier, so the tie downs did work.

If you are just in the beginning prototype stage - use a socket. For long term use on a lightly vibrating platform, getting rid of a socket is a good thing, the socket's just another failure point. Being launched by a catapult, better make sure everything is tied down well!
 
Do it. Be prepared to decouple power and ground with yet-another cap if necessary, but it probably won't be.

GsT
 
Usually one wants a socket, unless the assembly is subject to a lot of vibration. If there's a lot of vibration you should consider soldering the unit in place, or tying down the part somehow. In the old days, for prototype airborne testing, we were only allowed sockets if the parts were secured to the boards. That included big capacitors, especially if they were only attached by thin leads. Extra straps and things were encouraged. My stuff seemed to survive being launched off an aircraft carrier, so the tie downs did work.

If you are just in the beginning prototype stage - use a socket. For long term use on a lightly vibrating platform, getting rid of a socket is a good thing, the socket's just another failure point. Being launched by a catapult, better make sure everything is tied down well!

Very old version of TouchDRO kit came with IC sockets, and those gave me many quality hours of troubleshooting of intermittent issues. People mount their DROs on or near machines (go figure) that vibrate at all sort of frequencies. At this point I don't even use Pb-Free solder, since the joints tend to be more brittle. I did one 100-unit batch of Pb-Free (EU has strong opinions about this), and had 7% failure rate, and I suspect this is not the end of it.
In short, solder as much into the board as you can, and what you can't solder, hot-glue.

Regards
Yuriy
 
Very old version of TouchDRO kit came with IC sockets, and those gave me many quality hours of troubleshooting of intermittent issues. People mount their DROs on or near machines (go figure) that vibrate at all sort of frequencies. At this point I don't even use Pb-Free solder, since the joints tend to be more brittle. I did one 100-unit batch of Pb-Free (EU has strong opinions about this), and had 7% failure rate, and I suspect this is not the end of it.
In short, solder as much into the board as you can, and what you can't solder, hot-glue.

Regards
Yuriy
Thanks Yuriy. I guess I will drop the idea of socketing the ESP32 board. The little stuff I can take off the board and put it back so that you would never know it was removed so I wasn't going to socket any of that. The only concern was the rigidish pins on the board and I can spend a few extra minutes to unsolder those if needed. I also am not of fan of lead free solder. I still have a couple rolls stashed from when an employer switched to water soluble flux back in the 80s.

I have my scales and just need to put it all together. I have built enough radios and computers from bare boards that I don't anticipate any problems.

I see you are near Wilsonville. Any Tek or X time? I am retired from Xerox.

Dave
 
Thanks Yuriy. I guess I will drop the idea of socketing the ESP32 board. The little stuff I can take off the board and put it back so that you would never know it was removed so I wasn't going to socket any of that. The only concern was the rigidish pins on the board and I can spend a few extra minutes to unsolder those if needed. I also am not of fan of lead free solder. I still have a couple rolls stashed from when an employer switched to water soluble flux back in the 80s.

I have my scales and just need to put it all together. I have built enough radios and computers from bare boards that I don't anticipate any problems.

I see you are near Wilsonville. Any Tek or X time? I am retired from Xerox.

Dave
Dave,
There are two reasons I recommend lifting it above the board (in the assembly instructions). The obvious one is the BT antenna ground clearance. The problem is not cross talk; too close to the ground will cause SWR that over time will damage the transmitter. Second problem is rigidity. The few extra mm of exposed leads have enough give to account for normal thermal expansion and some strain from mounting/vibrations.

Regards
Yuriy
 
Dave,
There are two reasons I recommend lifting it above the board (in the assembly instructions). The obvious one is the BT antenna ground clearance. The problem is not cross talk; too close to the ground will cause SWR that over time will damage the transmitter. Second problem is rigidity. The few extra mm of exposed leads have enough give to account for normal thermal expansion and some strain from mounting/vibrations.

Regards
Yuriy
I got it from the instructions that the esp needed to be up a few mm. I will set it up at least the 5mm you specify.
 
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