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anti rust
- Thread starter JT.
- Start date
JT,one of my future projects is to dabble into anodizing aluminum.Reason is for the question that you posted.Most of the knobs on machines(metal or wood working machines) that are factory made or after market types which either or may be lost MIA.I know that they are good knobs for the purpose but for me that is where I want to add my personal touch.You can take aluminum and anodize it just about any color then clear coat it for continuous protections from oxidation.Alot of the window frames,storm door frames for houses and commerical bldgs entrance door frames use aluminum that has been anodize for a tuff protection from the elements.Just a thought............
Maybe for steel a clear coat of lacquer from the auto parts store----------kroll
Maybe for steel a clear coat of lacquer from the auto parts store----------kroll
JT,
I don't know what kind of lathe you have but I like to leave anything that you touch (knobs, levers, hand wheels, etc.) bare metal. Paint won't last and....I like shiny things too! :whistle: If you use your lathe on a regular basis rust on those items won't be a problem. Just the oil from you hands touching them (natural oils as well as cutting/lube oils) will keep them shiny.
When I refurbed my old Logan lathe I kept the inside of the chip pan as bare metal as well. I like the look and I don't have to worry about chipping paint when I toss/drop a tool in the pan.
Steve
I don't know what kind of lathe you have but I like to leave anything that you touch (knobs, levers, hand wheels, etc.) bare metal. Paint won't last and....I like shiny things too! :whistle: If you use your lathe on a regular basis rust on those items won't be a problem. Just the oil from you hands touching them (natural oils as well as cutting/lube oils) will keep them shiny.
When I refurbed my old Logan lathe I kept the inside of the chip pan as bare metal as well. I like the look and I don't have to worry about chipping paint when I toss/drop a tool in the pan.
Steve
I started out with a very old Myford Super 7, pretty rusty every where, including all of the levers etc. Although I cleaned up what I could it never looked particularly smart, but after nearly three years of relatively regular use most of the control knobs and levers now look clean and shiney.
So in summary I agree with stevecmo, I find that whatever I regularly use stays "shiney", when not in use it probably has oil on it from my fingers etc so doesn't deteriorate when not in use. So like the old railway engineers wipe down the "shiney bits" with an oily rag and use regularly.
Barry
So in summary I agree with stevecmo, I find that whatever I regularly use stays "shiney", when not in use it probably has oil on it from my fingers etc so doesn't deteriorate when not in use. So like the old railway engineers wipe down the "shiney bits" with an oily rag and use regularly.
Barry
Send it to me and I will powder coat it. I have flat black, satin black, mirror black and a few other colors. As long as it can be heated to 400 degrees.
I've been spraying stuff with clear acrylic for the last few years seems to last (we will see how long IF I live long enough) stuff you don't want shiny use the matte finish. I've got some small toys that were lacquered metal, after derusting in the molasses then sloshed a short while in phosphoric acid to prevent flash rusting. I sprayed with a clear matte finish, they look like museum pieces now, even my wife approves she even asks if I need more. Krylon brand is what I have been using.