Thank you Robert, I sent a message since I am new to this site asking if you could send me the files to my E-Mail. I believe my machine is a little later a 1934 or 35 but at this point I am looking at everything from 1936 and back. From what I have learned so far it is the second 10" in their series with a back gear drive. and a lever actuated forward and reverse gears for the turn screw. I do want to learn from your site for now and maybe have something in the future to share with others.
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Another New Lathe (that Turned Out To Be A Craftsman 12")
- Thread starter Jman
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
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Jman,
I haven't received either a PM or a direct email from you. Where did you send it?
The basic Atlas 10" models were the 10, the 10D and the 10F. A, B and C were stripped down versions (major subassemblies like carriage assembly, lead screw and threading gears assembly, and back gear assembly) of the original 10. 10E was a stripped down version of the 10D. After the 10F came out, they quit doing that with the 10" and sears quit doing it with the 12". However, there were several incremental changes made in the early years that didn't result in a model number change.
I was going to post the earliest known 10" photo but that function seems to have disappeared. I'll report it.
The UPLOAD FILES button is (still?) hidden from me but it works. Probably something to do with the browser. Note that this machine has the early fabricated change gear guard, "wall light switch" for motor ON/OFF attached to the change gear guard mounting plate, early tailstock without the white lead dropper, and early 9" type compound (Zamak slide, stud mounted swivel (Zamak??), knob instead of crank). But it has the two individual gear guards. And the only reported part and casting part numbers for those both begin with "10D-". Will someone who has an early tailstock without the dropper please report the part number? It should be visible in the casting behind the clamping nut. Likewise the base part number, although it may be on the bottom of the base. The known part numbers at present are 9-5, 9-5A and 10D-5 for the tailstock and 9-6, 9-6A and 10D-6 for the base. There has to have been at least a 10-5 as all of the bases appear to have been 1" tall.
I haven't received either a PM or a direct email from you. Where did you send it?
The basic Atlas 10" models were the 10, the 10D and the 10F. A, B and C were stripped down versions (major subassemblies like carriage assembly, lead screw and threading gears assembly, and back gear assembly) of the original 10. 10E was a stripped down version of the 10D. After the 10F came out, they quit doing that with the 10" and sears quit doing it with the 12". However, there were several incremental changes made in the early years that didn't result in a model number change.
I was going to post the earliest known 10" photo but that function seems to have disappeared. I'll report it.
The UPLOAD FILES button is (still?) hidden from me but it works. Probably something to do with the browser. Note that this machine has the early fabricated change gear guard, "wall light switch" for motor ON/OFF attached to the change gear guard mounting plate, early tailstock without the white lead dropper, and early 9" type compound (Zamak slide, stud mounted swivel (Zamak??), knob instead of crank). But it has the two individual gear guards. And the only reported part and casting part numbers for those both begin with "10D-". Will someone who has an early tailstock without the dropper please report the part number? It should be visible in the casting behind the clamping nut. Likewise the base part number, although it may be on the bottom of the base. The known part numbers at present are 9-5, 9-5A and 10D-5 for the tailstock and 9-6, 9-6A and 10D-6 for the base. There has to have been at least a 10-5 as all of the bases appear to have been 1" tall.
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Robert thank you for getting back to me, I sent the message to contact support, this project was started years ago, and even Tony in the UK didn't know what I had at the time, but from researching the last couple of months I see much has been uncovered about these older Metalcraft lathes since that time. This is going to be very slow going for me for I have forgotten much of what I learned from when I first started. I am trying to push myself by exercising my mind to at least make the effort to see if I can uncover memories and remember what I once could recall with no problem and at the same time learn something that is new to me. I have very little problem running the machines I have by making jigs etc. probably a lot of that is good habits and years of repetition. Turning wrenches the physical application of what I learned since I was 12 doesn't seem to be be affected by the aging memory loss I am dealing with. It is the names of parts and where they go that is the problem. For anyone having a decline in age related memory, I have found by repeating the information over and over has helped me the most. I don't know if this content is appropriate for this forum but it is also a problem many of us who do what we do have or will have.
Thanks Robert that was kind of you to say, because I didn't know where it was going either, but I thought it was better to start by doing something rather then just sit here and not at least try something. Now back to my lathe:
the bed has the casting No of 942
the tail stock has the casting No. L 3-5 on the underside also a stamped DRC with a 1" base thickness
the left belt cover has the casting No. 10-247
the right belt cove has the casting No. 10-246
there are no serial No's on the front bed way at the tail stock end
the turn or lead-screw is 5\8" in diameter
it has a standard house housing switch plate and is marked with Metalcraft patented May 16 1933 No 1909522
The following is what I am having a difficult time getting information about and my memory is blank about how these gears changed the direction of the threading drive screw.
It is driven by a horizontal backgeard headstock with plain bearings
it has 2 gears in the forward most part of the left side gear housing that meshes with the headstock drive gear, it is shifted by a lever that exits the housing above and to the left of the on\off switch housing which seems to change the direction of the turn\lead screw when shifted from upper to lower position. It is dismantled now and I will be able to share more info as I put it back together, as I do this I will also be learning the proper names of the individual components of the drive and the gear housing which I believe will help both of us. Thank you for helping me on this quest.
the bed has the casting No of 942
the tail stock has the casting No. L 3-5 on the underside also a stamped DRC with a 1" base thickness
the left belt cover has the casting No. 10-247
the right belt cove has the casting No. 10-246
there are no serial No's on the front bed way at the tail stock end
the turn or lead-screw is 5\8" in diameter
it has a standard house housing switch plate and is marked with Metalcraft patented May 16 1933 No 1909522
The following is what I am having a difficult time getting information about and my memory is blank about how these gears changed the direction of the threading drive screw.
It is driven by a horizontal backgeard headstock with plain bearings
it has 2 gears in the forward most part of the left side gear housing that meshes with the headstock drive gear, it is shifted by a lever that exits the housing above and to the left of the on\off switch housing which seems to change the direction of the turn\lead screw when shifted from upper to lower position. It is dismantled now and I will be able to share more info as I put it back together, as I do this I will also be learning the proper names of the individual components of the drive and the gear housing which I believe will help both of us. Thank you for helping me on this quest.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
Jman,
First, although some of the part numbers don't quite compute, your machine, or at least the headstock and tailstock, is an Atlas/Craftsman 12". not an Atlas 10". Of the metal working screw cutting lathes that Atlas built, all of the 9" and 10" had a lead screw reversing gearbox attached to the front of the bed right below the front of the headstock. All of the 12" (and all of the 6") had a tumbler style FWD/OFF/REV selector mounted on the left end of the headstock toward the front. When you move the lever up or down from center, one or the other of the small gears that also move are meshed with the 32T gear on the left end of the spindle. In the center position, neither gear touches the 32T. Plus part numbers beginning with L1, L2, L3, L4, L5 and L6 (more or less in order of age or vintage) are all for the 12" models. Place a flat bar or straight edge (rule) across the ways right under the spindle. Measure the vertical distance from the center of the spindle to the straight edge. That measurement plus the thickness of the straight edge should be about 6-1/8".
I think, from what you have now written, that your machine is a 101.07380, made in late 1935 or early 1936. For a photo of it, go to DOWNLOAD, click where it says "click here, scroll down slightly and click on the next "click here". Then select Atlas.... and finally Atlas/Craftsman Catalogs. Download the 1936 Craftsman Power Tools Catalog. Look on page 28 (catalog page 26) for a photo and description. Don't drool over the price too much.
Next, go to Atlas/Craftsman Lathes and then Manuals. Download the parts list for the Craftsman 101.07382 Rev 2. (EDIT - we do have 101.07381. What we don't have is 101.07380). We don't have a manual for the 07381 (should read 07380) but most parts are the same. The main cosmetic differences are the change gear guard, motor switch, and compound assembly. This is a "flat" parts list. Also download the illustrated parts list for the 101.07383. A lot of the part numbers are newer but most parts still look the same and are in the same place.
First, although some of the part numbers don't quite compute, your machine, or at least the headstock and tailstock, is an Atlas/Craftsman 12". not an Atlas 10". Of the metal working screw cutting lathes that Atlas built, all of the 9" and 10" had a lead screw reversing gearbox attached to the front of the bed right below the front of the headstock. All of the 12" (and all of the 6") had a tumbler style FWD/OFF/REV selector mounted on the left end of the headstock toward the front. When you move the lever up or down from center, one or the other of the small gears that also move are meshed with the 32T gear on the left end of the spindle. In the center position, neither gear touches the 32T. Plus part numbers beginning with L1, L2, L3, L4, L5 and L6 (more or less in order of age or vintage) are all for the 12" models. Place a flat bar or straight edge (rule) across the ways right under the spindle. Measure the vertical distance from the center of the spindle to the straight edge. That measurement plus the thickness of the straight edge should be about 6-1/8".
I think, from what you have now written, that your machine is a 101.07380, made in late 1935 or early 1936. For a photo of it, go to DOWNLOAD, click where it says "click here, scroll down slightly and click on the next "click here". Then select Atlas.... and finally Atlas/Craftsman Catalogs. Download the 1936 Craftsman Power Tools Catalog. Look on page 28 (catalog page 26) for a photo and description. Don't drool over the price too much.
Next, go to Atlas/Craftsman Lathes and then Manuals. Download the parts list for the Craftsman 101.07382 Rev 2. (EDIT - we do have 101.07381. What we don't have is 101.07380). We don't have a manual for the 07381 (should read 07380) but most parts are the same. The main cosmetic differences are the change gear guard, motor switch, and compound assembly. This is a "flat" parts list. Also download the illustrated parts list for the 101.07383. A lot of the part numbers are newer but most parts still look the same and are in the same place.
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Robert I did go out in the shop yesterday to check the lathes tailstock end of the front way but still after careful observation with a magnifying glass I did not see anything that could represent a serial no, except a very small L half the size of the L I just typed.
I just posted a question to Howie on his New Craftsman Lathe thread about his lathe being the same or very similar to mine, and I posted a question to you about the possibility of moving the pertinent posts involving the tumbler direction selector and identifying the 12" lathe as I now know it is not a 9" or 10" which is what this thread is about and brought me here. I might never have figured out what I had if I hadn't stumbled in here.
I just posted a question to Howie on his New Craftsman Lathe thread about his lathe being the same or very similar to mine, and I posted a question to you about the possibility of moving the pertinent posts involving the tumbler direction selector and identifying the 12" lathe as I now know it is not a 9" or 10" which is what this thread is about and brought me here. I might never have figured out what I had if I hadn't stumbled in here.
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2011
- Messages
- 10,552
I moved all of the pertinent posts into a new thread.
I suppose that it's possible that Atlas didn't stamp serial numbers into the beds of the first few hundred Craftsman 12" that they made. But if so, this would be I'm pretty certain the first example. So far, insisting that there had to be a serial number stamped on the right end of the front way has always turned one up, sometimes on the third or fourth try. The lowest 101.07380 lathe serial number so far is 810. There is one with Serial Number 360 that has yet to be ID'd as to whether it is a 101.07360 or 101.07361. But we also don't know for certain whether all Craftsman models have a serial number 1 or not.
I suppose that it's possible that Atlas didn't stamp serial numbers into the beds of the first few hundred Craftsman 12" that they made. But if so, this would be I'm pretty certain the first example. So far, insisting that there had to be a serial number stamped on the right end of the front way has always turned one up, sometimes on the third or fourth try. The lowest 101.07380 lathe serial number so far is 810. There is one with Serial Number 360 that has yet to be ID'd as to whether it is a 101.07360 or 101.07361. But we also don't know for certain whether all Craftsman models have a serial number 1 or not.
