An unfortunate learnt something new lesson

savarin

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As some will know I have been doing a lot of straight knurling in stainless steel of late.
I use a cam jack knurler to really apply the pressure required to get full depth knurls with no double tracking.
I'm very happy with the results but learnt a valuable lesson unfortunately the hard way the other day.
I wiped the finished knurl along its length with a rag to get a good look at it and all was well untill I picked up another tool whereupon I felt the splinters in my thumb that had gone clean through the rag.
BUT, I couldnt see them or even feel them lightly passing a finger over where I thought they were.
Nope, they hadnt gone, just so fine they couldnt be seen.
Even with a 10x loup I could barely see them, I swear they were finer than prickly pear hairs and even more irritating.
I checked a couple of the finished knurls that still had oil on them and there they were, long but ultra fine hair like swarf sitting in the grooves.
I usually use a very thin oil for lubricating the knurling and I think this flushes the fine swarf out but this time had run out and used a thicker oil.
A good wash got rid of them and the ones in my thumb appear to have eventually worn away.
 
Fortunate you are that the wires in your thumb didn't stay behind to cause problems.
 
I've never knurled (is that a proper expression?) but I'd like to know more. I think I saw a video where the presenter brushed the freshly knurled and still rotating part with a stiff brush. I believe this was to knock off any swarf and such splinters. Is this a good approach?

Craig
 
WCraig, yes it's a good idea. I have a short narrow scratch brush that gets run over a fresh knurl running at slow speed then in reverse.
Savarin, #metoo.
 
For cross hatch knurles I usually use a wire wheel running along both diagonals in a drill whilst the part is rotating first one way then the other.
This removes all the sharp edges. I havnt done it to these straight ones this time because they are quite small.
I will do next time.
 
One of my first experiences with stainless splinters was jumping up and sitting on a bench where someone was cleaning up welds with a carbide burr bit and die grinder . You won't make that mistake twice .
 
Have you ever noticed that sometimes a knurl just doesn't cooperate very well? I have found that certain diameters
work better than others. If I am having a problematic knurl, I will machine off a couple thousandths and try again. Usually
it goes better on the second try tracking better and producing a nicer knurl. In theory, knurling is not a machining operation
but rather metal forming.

Savarin, sorry you got the splinters. We have all been there and it isn't much fun. That needely stuff is the worst.
 
Savarin,

So glad to hear the outcome was just splinters. I started to cringe when I read "rag" and "knurling", was sure hoping the two didn't meet while the lathe was running. Thanks for the tip on the splinters.

Bruce
 
Have you ever noticed that sometimes a knurl just doesn't cooperate very well? I have found that certain diameters
work better than others. If I am having a problematic knurl, I will machine off a couple thousandths and try again. Usually
it goes better on the second try tracking better and producing a nicer knurl. In theory, knurling is not a machining operation
but rather metal forming.
Somewhere there is a math formula that takes into account the spacing of the knurling tool, that gives you the best diameter to start with to get a perfect knurl.
 
Sometimes you have to wait 2 or 3 days for the splinters to turn black to find them all. I know that you said that you were working with stainless. I would expect that to darken as well, unless it's a higher grade of stainless steel.
 
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