An antique hacksaw with original blade I just bought.

george wilson

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I just bought a Lancashire pattern hacksaw with the original blade in it. It was made about 1835. The saw is in fine condition,and looks nearly un used. It was never allowed to get rusty.

The most interesting thing about this saw(Other than it being beautiful and in such fine condition) is that it has the original blade.

The blade is still quite usable,but I do not want to deface it. It needs to be preserved for study. Since they made consumable tools like these blades and files and such that will wear out,they made these blades up in large quantities to be sold as ordered. The blade could actually be 18th.C.

It has NO SET to the teeth. There are 20 hand filed teeth per inch. The blade is tapered thinner at the back to provide clearance for the teeth.

You can tell that the teeth were skillfully hand filed,because there are small irregularities in them,though it obviously took long practice and skill to file them as good as they are. There are a few teeth here and there that are a little higher than the others.

The blade is about .035" thick at the teeth,and .020" thick along the back. The width is 1/2" plus about 1/32".

It is not possible to see where the pins are that hold the blade in at each end. They were expertly peened down and filed flush. I shall insert a narrow knife blade against the blade,and hammer it some to spread each end of the saw just a teeny bit. This will cause the pins to sink in a tad and become visible. Then,I can punch them out without hunting about on the saw with a punch,and defacing it. I want to use the saw,as these old hacksaws are more rigid than new saw frames are. I can heat the end of a new blade and drill it to make a 9" blade,or just drill it with a carbide bit.

You can still see the colors pin the ends of this saw where the blade was softened to make the holes.

The blade would make an excellent screw slot cutting blade,having no wavy set. Starrett used to make these,though I do not think they are tapered,cutting only a shallow screw slot. I do not wish to use the blade,though.

I am debating if I should give this blade to Williamsburg museum,as the only original hacksaw blade they have has been through a fire. Any idea of how hard it was tempered has been lost. Mine is in nearly new condition.
 
I just bought a Lancashire pattern hacksaw with the original blade in it. It was made about 1835. The saw is in fine condition,and looks nearly un used. It was never allowed to get rusty.

The most interesting thing about this saw(Other than it being beautiful and in such fine condition) is that it has the original blade.

The blade is still quite usable,but I do not want to deface it. It needs to be preserved for study. Since they made consumable tools like these blades and files and such that will wear out,they made these blades up in large quantities to be sold as ordered. The blade could actually be 18th.C.

It has NO SET to the teeth. There are 20 hand filed teeth per inch. The blade is tapered thinner at the back to provide clearance for the teeth.

You can tell that the teeth were skillfully hand filed,because there are small irregularities in them,though it obviously took long practice and skill to file them as good as they are. There are a few teeth here and there that are a little higher than the others.

The blade is about .035" thick at the teeth,and .020" thick along the back. The width is 1/2" plus about 1/32".

It is not possible to see where the pins are that hold the blade in at each end. They were expertly peened down and filed flush. I shall insert a narrow knife blade against the blade,and hammer it some to spread each end of the saw just a teeny bit. This will cause the pins to sink in a tad and become visible. Then,I can punch them out without hunting about on the saw with a punch,and defacing it. I want to use the saw,as these old hacksaws are more rigid than new saw frames are. I can heat the end of a new blade and drill it to make a 9" blade,or just drill it with a carbide bit.

You can still see the colors pin the ends of this saw where the blade was softened to make the holes.

The blade would make an excellent screw slot cutting blade,having no wavy set. Starrett used to make these,though I do not think they are tapered,cutting only a shallow screw slot. I do not wish to use the blade,though.

I am debating if I should give this blade to Williamsburg museum,as the only original hacksaw blade they have has been through a fire. Any idea of how hard it was tempered has been lost. Mine is in nearly new condition.

Are you sure that Williamsburg wouldn't be interested in the entire saw as-is? You can probably provide it to them on loan and let them conserve it and display it until you want it back. Even if they only want the blade it might be better to let them take it apart.
 
Sounds like a fine old tool and blade. I'm not sure I could bring myself to use it. I would love to see it though.
 
I have no intentions to buy an expensive saw and give it to them! I want to use it,which will not hurt the saw frame. Besides,the saw itself is not 18th. C.. It has a swooped back. 18th. C. saws had a straight back,and were not as pretty. The blade is the interesting part,though. There are plenty of surviving hack saws,but blades were used,dulled or broken and tossed away. Having a good blade is rare. and,it is unlikely it changed since the 18th. C..

O.K. Here are some pictures. I could not hold steady enough to get a closeup of the teeth,and did not want to look for the tripod. There are a few superficial spots of rust on the blade,but they look worse in the pictures than they really are. As you can see,the pins are just not visible at all to remove the blade. Remember,for a 179 year old tool,this is great shape. Notice the de tempering colors on the ends of the blade so that holes could be drilled or punched.

These saws are SO much more rigid than any modern one(except my railroad rail saw!!:))

IMG_1288.JPG IMG_1290.jpg IMG_1289.jpg
 
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George--we were all waiting to see some pictures--thanks---Dave
 
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Yes, the pics are there George.

"Billy G"
 
Update: My plan of forcing a knife blade between the blade and the frame worked. I was able to make the pins sink in just enough to tell where they were. I was able to punch out the front one,but had to drill out the rear one most of the way and punch the rest out.

I measured the old blade,and,surprisingly,it is .045 thou. on the cutting edge,and .030 on the back for .015" of clearance for the teeth.

The "new" blade I put in is an antique itself. I have a box of old blades from the 1920's that have no paint on them. AND,EACH tooth is set on the Starrett blade I selected for the hack saw. It is not wavy set. It cuts a nice clean slot about the same width that the old blade would cut. It is also thinner than more recent blades. As clean as it cuts,I may use it for slotting screws.

I had to shorten it about 1"(or so) to fit it into the 9" frame of the old saw.
 
George,
I am puzzled and interested as to why they would go to the trouble of concealing the retaining pins on something that would be expected to last only a short time before needing revealing for blade replacement.

Cheers Phil
 
What is it that convinces you the blade is the "original"?
 
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