Aligning a lathe

DonAlexander

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Is there a manual that describes what needs to be done to assure a lathe is properly set up and aligned?

I am new to metal work. About 15 or so years ago I bought a Smithy 3 in 1 Lathe Mill combination machine. I used it for a few months but could never do anything productive with it. I am now trying to really learn to use it and I'm discovering what some of my earlier problems are. I won't bore anyone with the basics I've learned but some of my concerns are:

1. When I mount a dial gauge to a magnetic base on the cross feed and measure how true the face of the lathe spindle is (the part I mount the chuck to), I get 0.005" variation, which seems like a lot.

2. With the dial gauge still on cross feed, when I measure along the length of the bed, I get little (0.001") or no change. Mostly no measurable movement in the gauge. This seems pretty good to me but I wonder if I'm measuring the actual flatness of the lathe bed or the relative distance between the lathe bed and the top of the cross feed table - or, perhaps a bit of both.

3. I mounted a length of 1" drill rod in the chuck and center drilled it. The I mounted a dead center in the tail stock at the far end of the lathe and mounted the drill rod in the chuck on one end and the dead center on the other end. I then made a cut using the lathe near the chuck and then duplicated the cut near the tail stock. I used the settings on the cross feed table to measure the depth of cut, which was supposed to be the same at both ends. When I measured the drill rod stock I got 0.009 to 0.010" difference, depending on where I measured. This seemed like pretty sloppy tolerances...though my wife was pretty impressed (she has no mechanical skills or inclination).

It seems to me there should be adjustments to reduce these tolerances to acceptable values (whatever "acceptable" is). On item #3 I am guessing the tail stock is not aligned horizontally quite perfectly, and I can see where there is an adjustment for that (two set screws that allow the tail stock to me moved perpendicular to the bed).

I suppose I could figure this out myself, and likely learn a lot in the process. But, I figure someone has written a chapter in a book somewhere that would really help me out. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks.

Don
 
Is there a manual that describes what needs to be done to assure a lathe is properly set up and aligned?

I am new to metal work. About 15 or so years ago I bought a Smithy 3 in 1 Lathe Mill combination machine. I used it for a few months but could never do anything productive with it. I am now trying to really learn to use it and I'm discovering what some of my earlier problems are. I won't bore anyone with the basics I've learned but some of my concerns are:

1. When I mount a dial gauge to a magnetic base on the cross feed and measure how true the face of the lathe spindle is (the part I mount the chuck to), I get 0.005" variation, which seems like a lot.

2. With the dial gauge still on cross feed, when I measure along the length of the bed, I get little (0.001") or no change. Mostly no measurable movement in the gauge. This seems pretty good to me but I wonder if I'm measuring the actual flatness of the lathe bed or the relative distance between the lathe bed and the top of the cross feed table - or, perhaps a bit of both.

3. I mounted a length of 1" drill rod in the chuck and center drilled it. The I mounted a dead center in the tail stock at the far end of the lathe and mounted the drill rod in the chuck on one end and the dead center on the other end. I then made a cut using the lathe near the chuck and then duplicated the cut near the tail stock. I used the settings on the cross feed table to measure the depth of cut, which was supposed to be the same at both ends. When I measured the drill rod stock I got 0.009 to 0.010" difference, depending on where I measured. This seemed like pretty sloppy tolerances...though my wife was pretty impressed (she has no mechanical skills or inclination).

It seems to me there should be adjustments to reduce these tolerances to acceptable values (whatever "acceptable" is). On item #3 I am guessing the tail stock is not aligned horizontally quite perfectly, and I can see where there is an adjustment for that (two set screws that allow the tail stock to me moved perpendicular to the bed).

I suppose I could figure this out myself, and likely learn a lot in the process. But, I figure someone has written a chapter in a book somewhere that would really help me out. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction. Thanks.

Don

Don,

I would have mounted to bar between centers. then used an indicator mounted in the tool-holder. Move the carrage from the head to the tail. If there is a difference at the tail-stock loosen the screws then tighten the one that is greater by half. Then tighten the other one. Turn the shaft by hand. Repeat if not zero.

As for the faceplate or chuck make sure the threads are clean on the spindle and inside the mounting plates.
 
Don,

I would have mounted to bar between centers. then used an indicator mounted in the tool-holder. Move the carrage from the head to the tail. If there is a difference at the tail-stock loosen the screws then tighten the one that is greater by half. Then tighten the other one. Turn the shaft by hand. Repeat if not zero.

As for the faceplate or chuck make sure the threads are clean on the spindle and inside the mounting plates.

I forgot to mention make sure all the indicator clamping screws are tight. I have one I bought when I first started back in the late 1960's.
 
I don't know what acceptable tolerances are with a smithy.....but if I'm understanding you correctly, your checking the machine for taper by turning a piece on centers...or at least a chuck and one center. Most lathes have adjusters on the tailstock to eliminate (or produce) taper. If your diameter near the tail is smaller, you adjust the tailstock out or away from the tool. If it's larger near the tail you pull it in toward the tool. The .005 runout at the spindle would be a problem I would think. I would think it would be hard to get a good finish with that kind of slop in the spindle. Is there a take-up nut on the back end of the spindle so you can adjust some of that out?

Chuck
 
I am making progress. Taking what I learned here, I adjusted the tailstock and took two more cuts. The were much closer; 0.003 off, with the tail stock being larger than the chuck end. Next I'll take the chuck off and put drive plate on and a dead center on the drive end and see if I do any better. My guess is some of my error is coming from the three jaw chuck. Even at this point I'm feeling better about things.

Regarding adjusting the spindle...well, I'm not sure. The lathe has a flat plate that the chuck mounts to, not a traditional spindle that it would thread on to. All the same, I'm assuming there's a way to adjust the plate - or to build a spacer that eliminates the play. Any the last comment about getting a good finish got my attention because that's one of the big reasons I gave up about 15 years ago.

Don
 
Can you take a very light cut on that faceplate to true it up ? One of the steps of fitting a new back plate for a chuck is to take a truing cut on the face .

Snag
 
Don, One thing that your doing can kind of skew your test. Your taking a cut on one end and then retracting the cross slide, moving to the other end, and then returning to the original setting on your dial. That sounds like a good way to introduce more variables into your test. The way I have seen it done is to cut a piece leaving two shoulders...sort of a barbell shape...so you can cut the one end, move to the next one and not have to move the cross slide in the process. I prefer to just take a light cut all the way across. You have to take into account that you'll get deflection on a long piece, but it still gives you a good idea where you're at as far as bed wear. On the ends near support you should get a true reading. As far as the spindle...there must be some way to tighten it to put load on the bearings. Pics of the front and rear of the spindle would be a big help. Good luck

Chuck

I just reread the post and realized that the machine doesn't have a spindle. The "plate" must ride on some sort of shaft with either bushings or bearings. That's probably a good place to start because if you have a lot of play there, nothing you do is going to give you really good results.
 
Hello Everyone.

This sort of reminds me of when I was a kid at Christmas and opened up a box and there was a toy and my big brother would pull it out and start putting it together with out reading the directions. We usually ended up having extra parts and my Dad had to fix it for us. No sense in going half cocked here with guesses until we get more info.

We do not even know the model of the Smithy. I just looked up http://www.smithy.com/ and it looks like they have several models. They have great "Support" info. Don why don't you get a book for the machine as they have great maintenance info for you to check things if they are loose..

It looks like everything is a free download on the Smithy website. Also look up the proper names of the parts your describing so we are not guessing at what your saying. Then tell us what model so we can download the book too.
It would be nice to look into a crystal ball and tell you what to do, but until we have clearer info and some pictures were guessing.

And before anyone tells him a guess lets find out some more info so he doesn't make things worse then they are now.

Rich
 
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