Adding a QCTP to my 10F 10 x 36

[yendor]

I have purchased a Phase II QCTP for my 10F and did some general internet research on the installing process. Most of what I was looking for was how people modified the Steel Blank supplied into a "T"-Nut for mounting.

The "T"-Nut Slot in the Top of the Compound for the 10F will ONLY have .01" of Material left supporting the threads in the center section if I use the Supplied 14 mm bolt. I did find a Very Nice PDF File on another forum written by R.G Sparber (you can google his name + QCTP his is on a 12") and the PDF will come right up.

In his PDF the pic's show the threads actually breaking out thru the top section of his "T"-Nut. I'm not thrilled with that and the precise centering requirement for milling the Blank into a "T"-Nut.

What I'm thinking is to turn down some 11/16' CRS 1018 to 14 mm and thread both ends for 1/2 x 20.
This leaves .0255 supporting the threads in the center section of the "T"-Nut. While that's not lot of meat to the sides, the threads will be will be captured by Steel on both sides so there should be additional outside support. I would also be making a NEW "T"-Nut from 1-1/8" x

Attached Mock-Up Drawing of Original and Proposed Bolts and Dimensions of the "T" -SLOT Clearances would need to be added. Also see how close the threads are to the sides of one done using the original 14 mm bolt.

Anyone think this is a bad idea?

 

[gi_984]

I think you are on the right track with making a new bolt and t-nut. I recall having to do something similar with my 12" Atlas when I got it 5 years ago. The supplied t-nut blank and bolt on the Phase II AXA just wouldn't leave enough material after milling it. One thing I did have to do was careully file the inside of the slot on the compound. There were lots of dings and nicks that interfered with the t-nut sliding into place. With a little filing and a sharpening stone to deburr the edges of the new t-nut I was able to achieve a very nice and snug fit. In fact I made the new t-nut a little taller to fit amost flush with the top surface of the compound. I was pleasantly surprised how much better the lathe cut with the AXA QCTP over the traditional lantern tool post.

 

[wa5cab]

Nope. I think that it's a grand idea. Nearly half of the lower threads will be in the wider part of the T-nut.

Anyone think this is a bad idea?

 

[cdhknives]

I have no such problems with mine. Yes the little bit of top is thin at the threads. Keep in mind that the majority of the threads are in the wider base of the nut where they have plenty of metal around them. You should cut yours so that you absolutely maximize the metal in the wider flange of the nut (bottom) for strength and rigidity to disperse the load. I suspect the supplied bolt is better than 1018 steel too.

 

[Wierd Harold]

Just my opinion but I think that there would be a very small measurable loss of overall strength with the thin edges in the top of the nut and overall no actual effect on the real world use in this situation. I also don't think that the small amount of metal removed in the top of the compound, to allow the tool post to swing, will make any difference in overall strength or rigidity.
Just my thoughts.
HWF