A boring head project.

[Aukai]

A friend of mine bought wheels for his Toyota truck, the bolt pattern is the same as a Chevy, but the register for the Toyota is larger. My project is to enlarge his set of wheels to the Toyota register. There is one portion of the ID that the DTI is not happy, and I go back, and forth zeroing the DTI at 4 points until I get ~ .0002-3 tenths except at that area. I put the boring head in the bore, and in the known "good" reading area I used a piece of paper to get the cutter close. When I spin the bar backwards to see if it is concentric it will bind up, and in reversing rotation it will go 2/3 of the bore, and bind up again, there is a noticeable groove/deformation about 3/8-7/16" wide, not terribly deep, but visible in that area, would that cause the binding that far away from the damaged area. I'm hesitant to continue on a 5K set of wheels. I did do the DTI twice with the same results, am I doing something wrong?

 

[mmcmdl]

When speaking about the register , what are you referring to ? The center bore ?

 

[Aukai]

Yes, the Toyota is about .500 bigger.

 

[Nutfarmer]

Try indicating the outer rim of the wheel. I am assuming these are aluminum wheels. It's the tire that needs to be concentric with the center of the hub. I would share your concern about not damaging an expensive set of wheels. Good luck. For 5k I would expect the wheels to fit perfectly with out modifications.

 

[Aukai]

For the wheel to mount o the truck it must fit the hub register. Here is a picture, there is a discolored area, the right border has a deep scratch, the boring bar hangs up very near the scratch going counterclockwise, but going clockwise it hangs up a few inches before the discoloration.

 

[Firstram]

I agree with Nut, on a hub centric rim, the outer edge needs to run true!

 

[Charles scozzari]

A friend of mine bought wheels for his Toyota truck, the bolt pattern is the same as a Chevy, but the register for the Toyota is larger. My project is to enlarge his set of wheels to the Toyota register. There is one portion of the ID that the DTI is not happy, and I go back, and forth zeroing the DTI at 4 points until I get ~ .0002-3 tenths except at that area. I put the boring head in the bore, and in the known "good" reading area I used a piece of paper to get the cutter close. When I spin the bar backwards to see if it is concentric it will bind up, and in reversing rotation it will go 2/3 of the bore, and bind up again, there is a noticeable groove/deformation about 3/8-7/16" wide, not terribly deep, but visible in that area, would that cause the binding that far away from the damaged area. I'm hesitant to continue on a 5K set of wheels. I did do the DTI twice with the same results, am I doing something wrong?

I wonder if when you turned the tool in reverse to check clearance that you may have damaged the insert knocking off the cutting edge?

 

[MrWhoopee]

Just as a word of warning, I bought a second set of rims for snow tires for my wife's Kia. They were originally on a Scion and the center bore was too small. I bored them out to fit as you are doing and, being a machinist, made them a precision fit. I later sold the car to a friend. He takes my name in vain every time he mounts those rims.

 

[Charles scozzari]

Just as a word of warning, I bought a second set of rims for snow tires for my wife's Kia. They were originally on a Scion and the center bore was too small. I bored them out to fit as you are doing and, being a machinist, made them a precision fit. I later sold the car to a friend. He takes my name in vain every time he mounts those rims.

Very true, I always coat the hub with white lub before mounting a wheel.

 

[Aukai]

I had the spindle in neutral so it was being turned by hand, I have a Toyota to Chevy adapter to use as a gauge to drop in the hole. I just don't want to have to do this over again if the fit is loose for the hub, but off center enough that the lug nuts won't go in.