833TV picked up and finally on its stand!

[skcncx]

Picked up my 833TV mill a couple weeks ago, just now getting ready to degrease and plug it in! It's off the crate and on my stand.

Can't necessarily recommend it, but I rented a pallet jack and with a low ramp angle on my trailer I just wheeled it right off. My ramps are solid planks so it worked out better than expected. I plan do do the same thing when I pick up my lathe later this summer.

I have a harbor freight engine hoist, and instead of how they show it in the manual on blocks, I removed the wheels so I could slide the legs under the pallet and lift it that way onto a temporary cart to get it into my shop, through a standard man door. I had to rent a hoist because mine would not go high enough to clear my bench height. The blue bird kd engine hoist is much nicer to work with. It was a bit tense lifting it that high with no support other than the jack, lifting strap and hook.

Pics below... not that you all haven't see one of these! I'm pretty happy with how my stand has turned out with drawers for storage and all. Thanks to the previous threads on what height to target since I started building this before I picked up my mill. My welding skills certainly need a little help. All aluminum, 2" square tubing and the top is 1/2" x 10" bar stock, 3 lengths welded to look like one plate.

I left a cavity in the back... in case I add any electronics, modules, etc... so they can be mounted in the back. Though, I would have also liked deeper drawers. I ended up using 200lb rated drawer slides and 3/4" plywood for the entire drawer bodies... figured, all the tooling and things will start to get heavy.

Other than that... I have a LOT to learn and get this setup.

 

[7milesup]

Congratulations! Very nice looking stand!

 

[Aukai]

I did not like my spring loaded handle, and made it so it was always engaged.

 

[Jason812]

I like the stand. Thinking about trying to get one built for mine sometime this year.

The handle is up to you. The spring loaded one keeps knuckles from being whacked when using the power feed. I just put it in a drawer and use the fixed handle.

 

[skcncx]

I did not like my spring loaded handle, and made it so it was always engaged.

Yea, I'll try it but may resort to that as well. I can only intuit that they are mean to work along site a power feed, so they don't turn when the power feed either on the same handle or opposite side but same axis.

One thing I think I'll invest in quickly are power feeds . Up and down, will get old really fast. For z, I'll probably get the PM version when it's available, for x axis, I may create my own with stepper mower and electronics for a fun project... similar to the align power feed controls.

 

[Aukai]

My X power feed was on the left end, and the spring loaded handle still went buzzing around even though it was not otherwise engaged. I also got irritated when I was trying to get a precise location, and the handle would disengage if I let up on the pressure to hold it in.

 

[skcncx]

I was trying to get a precise location, and the handle would disengage if I let up on the pressure to hold it in.

In the process of cleaning all the gunk and shipping grease, I had the same frustration, it's really hard to keep it engaged if you are not right in front of it applying a fair amount of pressure.... so I put it on the left side for x axis, the handle I'll likely use the least.

I hope you don't have to get every last drop of that shipping wax off the drive screws. I spent an hour with a ton of paper towels, Wd40, and acid brush cleaning the slide ways and acme screws, got 95% of it but it just seems to be coming out of nowhere. A few pumps of the one shot oiler and it's ready for some movement. I realized I cranked it a concentrated period during the cleaning process... but I sure sense the value of power feeds.

Unfortunately, at the moment, I have to go about 45 feet to my nearest 220 outlet, it's a 14-50 50 amp oven outlet. It's probably overkill, but I plan to get some 10 awg good quality extension cord to wire it up before I can drop a line. I know that's not ideal, but I'll have just as long of a run when I run a dedicated line/circuit to the panel. I'd probably be ok with 12 awg extension cord as well.

 

[B2]

Nice cart/stand!

I agree this stuff is not much fun to clean off.

You might try Naphtha (lighter fluid by the gallon, my preference), kerosene, or any very light grade non-detergent motor oil. Just spray it on after it has been loosened up with the WD40 and let it drip off. Messy, but not so much reaching into get into every little corner with a towel.

I used to use Naphtha to remove the car rust proofing wax/oil that was in places that I did not want it. Nice thing about it is that it does not seem to harm the paint on a car. It does strip off the wax. My dad was a rural mail carrier and when the road crews would oil/gravel the roads the car would have oil like tar all over it from the tires picking up the gravel and pinging it against the sides of the car. Sometimes the sides of the car were almost solid hard dirt/sand embedded in black tar. After the roads had dried up so that the spattering had stopped, we would take an old Hudson lawn sprayer (metal) and spray the car sides with either Kerosene or Naphtha (outside of course) and the tar oil marks would streak down the car sides and drip. We would then gently wipe this off with rags and more solvent to get the sand off. Then a lot of hot soapy water washing and rinse and ... sometimes a new wax job.

By the way, if you want to put a rust proofing oil/wax on a surface to protect it. I recommend using LPS-3 rust inhibitor. I have sprayed it on the underside of my cars. There are a series of these materials, LPS-1 is much lighter weight and is nice to wipe down your tools with to prevent them from rusting during storage and without them being too oily to handle. You commonly find the LPS in spray cans, but you can also get it by the gallon (cheaper/oz.). My father-in-law introduced me to this stuff. He worked in TWA maintenance and they would spray this stuff on damaged spots on aircraft until they could be cycled back into maintenance for painting. I had a car limb fall on my car fender in the winter and it dented and knocked off the paint in about 4 x 4 inch area. I brushed off the loose paint and put the LPS-3 on it with the plan to do the repair in the summer. However it was 3 years before I got to it. When I cleaned it off with Naphtha the metal was still shining. It had been through the salty roads of 3 Rochester NY winters and still no rust! Made me a believer.

Dave L.

 

[IamNotImportant]

I did not like my spring loaded handle, and made it so it was always engaged.

yeah.. me too

My X power feed was on the left end, and the spring loaded handle still went buzzing around even though it was not otherwise engaged. I also got irritated when I was trying to get a precise location, and the handle would disengage if I let up on the pressure to hold it in.

egg act lee.. it is a real pain..

 

[Aukai]

Take the spring out, and make it stay engaged, with the spring the handle still goes whipping around anyway.