800 mile Bridgeport move with 1995 Ford Ranger

FliesLikeABrick

Wastestream salvage addict
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This writeup is split over two posts in this thread due to the attachment limit
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"today" (now a few weeks ago), I picked up a series 1 2J head Bridgeport I bought at an auction in the Chicagoland area, and drove it home to Northern VA.

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Originally when I bought the machine, it was at the same time that a friend bought a machine in the same auction. They were equipped with a tractor trailer (the owner of their shared shop is a truck driver) and 40ft shipping container borrowed for the day, so picking up 2 mills was trivial and it was only 10 minutes from their shop. The idea was that they would house my purchase, and probably be able to get it to hitchhike from Chicago to my neighborhood on a friend's truck for free or very cheap.

For a variety of small reasons, this ended up being a bit too complicated - the biggest issue was not having a forklift at home to unload the machine with, from someone else's truck parked on our rural side road -- which also would not be able to turn around to leave the area. Various ways to solve that ended up getting expensive or complicated (tight coupling of schedules and reliance on peoples' capabilities/flexibilities)

So I researched the size/proportions/footprint/weight/etc of the machine, best practices for moving, and decided that I could tow it home myself. The main decision was whether to use my cheap 2000lbs GVW utility trailer, including buying a spare tire and wheel bearing for the trip; or to rent a trailer. This ended up being a no-brainer, the Uhaul 4x7 trailer rental was only about $100 for 4 days, and the trailer is much better designed/built than mine - which makes sense since it is a rental that is expected to be problem free and take no risks that could create unnecessary liability for Uhaul. Their trailer weighs about 600 lbs, and is rated for 1800 lbs payload.

I expected the mill to be 2000-2200 lbs, which by itself is more than I'd really like to tow this distance and with the mountains in MD/PA; plus it is over the payload capacity of either trailer option. Larger trailers get a lot heavier too, further adding to my total towed mass....

There was a decent solution -- take the entire ram/head off the column of the machine, this should be 400-600 lbs; and put it in the bed of the truck. This is great not only for reducing the weight of the trailer, but also putting weight in the bed of the truck for substantially better weight distribution/highway behavior.

The drive out to Chicago was uneventful, 15 hours almost non-stop just 2 stops for food and gas. The UHaul utility trailers are not offered for one-way use, so I rented it locally and towed it out empty, which was fine.

To prepare for loading, we swing the head upside down...
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The Bridgeport sure looks small compared to their forklift.
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And then took the weight of it with the shop's large forklift, and a come-along for balancing:
PXL_20230510_204529655.jpg

4 bolts later, and the ram assembly was fully removed. We lowered it onto a pallet I brought with me that perfectly fits in the bed of the truck between the wheel wells in the bed
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Then threaded that pallet into the truck and pushed it all the way forward with the forks. I brought a crane scale with me so we could weight the two parts of the machine -- I am very risk-averse about towing and wanted to know exactly what my payload and weight distribution was. The head of the machine weighed somewhere between 500 and 550 lbs.
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Next was loading the remaining carcass of the machine We spent some time making a plate to go on top of the column that would accept the 4 bolts that go down into the spider to clamp the top of the column and provide a solid lift point.

We found a combination of lug nuts and washers that made enough spacers to use the OEM bolts, which already were slightly bent so it seemed fine to use them for clamping the plate on. It's the same load they would see with the ram bolted on anyway, and that's the normal way to lift these.
PXL_20230510_212849330.jpg

Then it was just a matter of lifting from that point and using the come-along to again level the load out



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This tipped the scales at approximately 1350 lbs -- putting the total machine weight around 1900 lbs.
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We backed the trailer into the shop and lowered the machine in, then used the crane scale and forklift to weigh the tongue and get about 225-275 lbs of tongue weight for a safe trip home.

Strapped it in, shrink-wrapped all the machined surfaces/ways to avoid road debris from accumulating...
PXL_20230511_022224414.jpg

Then loaded all the tools/materials I brought back in the truck along with some other winnings from this auction and the stuff needed to make the trip back. My friend made the trip with me for a second set of hands, and to help unload/set up at my place. He hasn't run a mill before, so the trade-off is that we would get it set up faster and get some time on it (or if issues were encountered, on my smaller mill) so that he could get exposure to the fundamentals of machine setup and operation, and bring that knowledge back to the shared shop in Chicagoland.

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Topped off the tires on the truck (raised the pressure of the rears by about 5psi over normal), checked fluids and all other pre-roadtrip stuff, and got a good night of sleep for a ~4am departure the next day.

This story continues in another post below due to the attachment limit being hit in this post
 
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The drive home to VA was uneventful, took approximately 17 hours with only a few stops -- great weather, I was happy not to have to wrap a tarp around this and worry about it flapping itself to pieces in tow. The truck did great, most of the time in 4th gear but we dropped into 3rd for some of the steeper hills in MD/PA/WV. A shorter gear ratio in the axles would have been nice, but we had plenty of power to get the job done.

The next day we set to unloading so we could return the trailer. At home I have a 1 ton chain hoist on a rolling 2 ton gantry in the garage, plus a subcompact tractor we hopefully could use to lift the pallet out of the bed of the truck. Worst case we would remove the cap from the back of the truck then use the gantry to pick the head up as well.

So that's what we did. Backed the trailer into the garage, lifted the machine up, and pulled the trailer out.

We did have a 2x4 frame built in the trailer, so that in the case of a collision or emergency braking situation the bottom of the machine couldn't slid forward on the low-friction trailer deck. We were able to lift right out of that.
PXL_20230512_125503029.jpg

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We lowered onto a pallet jack for easy maneuvering, with it at about a 22.5d angle because we would need to thread the machine through a 34" doorway into the back shop

PXL_20230512_130319653.jpg

Next was getting the head out of the back of the truck. The pallet fork frame fit perfectly inside the truck bed/cap to reach all the way in and grab the pallet, instead of having to drag it back with chains... and it was just barely able to curl the pallet back onto the forks. This machine has a ~800-900 lbs loader lift capacity, but that is basically under ideal conditions if all the weight is at the tilt point at the front of the loader. With a 150-200 lbs fork attachment on it, and the weight of the head spread over a distance ahead of the fork frame -- yeah this was right at its max capacity. We had contingency plans for if this couldn't lift it, but it worked out just fine

IMG_20230512_130645.jpg

We dropped the pallet in the garage, and used the chain hoist to put the head back on the machine, excactly the opposite of removal 2 days prior.

Now it should just be a matter of threading through the doorway (which took a couple tries to situate it on the forks right)

PXL_20230512_205839658.jpg


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Threading through the walkway of the shop which I've always left just clear enough to allow movement of something like this

PXL_20230512_210925343.jpg

At the back of the shop, I had a spot cleared which took a few weeks of effort. See my other thread about building a storage loft and reorganizing -- long story short I needed to loft storage to make floorspace, move my larger workbench under the loft, and with a few other changes that made this back wall of the shop have enough free space for the bridgeport plus elbow room

PXL_20230506_204550014.jpg

We lowered it off the pallet jacks onto stacks of wood blocks, then used large prybars to lift one corner at a time and remove blocks slowly... replacing thick blocks with thinner ones, and through about 10 rounds of this lowered it to the floor.

We did a bit of electrical work to drop power from the raceway and install the VFD, and it was ready to make some chips!

PXL_20230515_141046468.jpg

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Next steps:
  • The X axis power feed does not work, I'd like to spend some time trying to repair the board before replacing the board with a generic motor drive, even though these older 6F boards seem notorious for failure
  • Measure wear/general machine health
  • Extend the VFD low voltage controls to somewhere more convenient on the machine, like I just did for the Chipmaster lathe
  • Install way covers
  • Fix the spindle brake, but if this is too unpleasant and the head is otherwise healthy then I will just use the low gear to hold the spindle for tool changes
  • Maybe a bit of cleaning
Thanks for reading
 

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Nice job. Congratulations on your new mill.
Martin
 
Excellent post!

All your planning really paid off.
(trailer, head removal, putting the mill at an angle on the pallet jack to get the table thru the doorway, even the loft).
I like the 2x4 frame on the trailer floor used to prevent sliding.

Well done and thanks for sharing your adventure.
I know what a PITA stopping for photos can be when your busy doing the job at hand.

Brian
 
The drive home to VA was uneventful, took approximately 17 hours with only a few stops -- great weather, I was happy not to have to wrap a tarp around this and worry about it flapping itself to pieces in tow. The truck did great, most of the time in 4th gear but we dropped into 3rd for some of the steeper hills in MD/PA/WV. A shorter gear ratio in the axles would have been nice, but we had plenty of power to get the job done.

The next day we set to unloading so we could return the trailer. At home I have a 1 ton chain hoist on a rolling 2 ton gantry in the garage, plus a subcompact tractor we hopefully could use to lift the pallet out of the bed of the truck. Worst case we would remove the cap from the back of the truck then use the gantry to pick the head up as well.

So that's what we did. Backed the trailer into the garage, lifted the machine up, and pulled the trailer out.

We did have a 2x4 frame built in the trailer, so that in the case of a collision or emergency braking situation the bottom of the machine couldn't slid forward on the low-friction trailer deck. We were able to lift right out of that.
View attachment 449488

View attachment 449495

We lowered onto a pallet jack for easy maneuvering, with it at about a 22.5d angle because we would need to thread the machine through a 34" doorway into the back shop

View attachment 449496

Next was getting the head out of the back of the truck. The pallet fork frame fit perfectly inside the truck bed/cap to reach all the way in and grab the pallet, instead of having to drag it back with chains... and it was just barely able to curl the pallet back onto the forks. This machine has a ~800-900 lbs loader lift capacity, but that is basically under ideal conditions if all the weight is at the tilt point at the front of the loader. With a 150-200 lbs fork attachment on it, and the weight of the head spread over a distance ahead of the fork frame -- yeah this was right at its max capacity. We had contingency plans for if this couldn't lift it, but it worked out just fine

View attachment 449492

We dropped the pallet in the garage, and used the chain hoist to put the head back on the machine, excactly the opposite of removal 2 days prior.

Now it should just be a matter of threading through the doorway (which took a couple tries to situate it on the forks right)

View attachment 449486


View attachment 449491

Threading through the walkway of the shop which I've always left just clear enough to allow movement of something like this

View attachment 449489

At the back of the shop, I had a spot cleared which took a few weeks of effort. See my other thread about building a storage loft and reorganizing -- long story short I needed to loft storage to make floorspace, move my larger workbench under the loft, and with a few other changes that made this back wall of the shop have enough free space for the bridgeport plus elbow room

View attachment 449497

We lowered it off the pallet jacks onto stacks of wood blocks, then used large prybars to lift one corner at a time and remove blocks slowly... replacing thick blocks with thinner ones, and through about 10 rounds of this lowered it to the floor.

We did a bit of electrical work to drop power from the raceway and install the VFD, and it was ready to make some chips!

View attachment 449493

View attachment 449494

View attachment 449487




Next steps:
  • The X axis power feed does not work, I'd like to spend some time trying to repair the board before replacing the board with a generic motor drive, even though these older 6F boards seem notorious for failure
  • Measure wear/general machine health
  • Extend the VFD low voltage controls to somewhere more convenient on the machine, like I just did for the Chipmaster lathe
  • Install way covers
  • Fix the spindle brake, but if this is too unpleasant and the head is otherwise healthy then I will just use the low gear to hold the spindle for tool changes
  • Maybe a bit of cleaning
Thanks for reading
Well done!
Thanks for sharing. I get excited on new machine day.
 
Nothing beats a good road trip . :)
 
Good Job. I just returned from a 5 day 3000+ mile trip to retrieve a mill so I know what you went through.
It sure is nice to have it on the floor in the shop.
A good plan with alternatives makes for a smooth adventure. Options are king on this kind of thing.
 
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