7x12 Fix Up Questions

[RHayes]

I picked up a Dayton model 5Z023 horizontal bandsaw to fix up. Some of the things it needs are: hand wheel for the vise, guide bearings, a band, coolant pump, feed cylinder rebuild.

I'm presently working on the cylinder. It looked to be ok, just didn't dampen so I replaced the two o-rings in the piston, and the one in the needle valve, and am filling it with oil.(let it sit overnight with fill plug at top)

The wheels (no tires on these) have a shoulder and the area the band rides is 5/8". Any opinions on what width band to use? The teeth on a 5/8" would only clear the wheels by the amount the band rides from the shoulder so I'm thinking a 3/4" ? The guide bearings are all 6202Z.

The piping for coolant is there but no pump. Any suggestions for low cost alternatives?

 

[GLCarlson]

It appears from pictures elsewhere to be a stock 7x12 type. So, 3/4" x 093, 7'9" blade, and probably a lot of parts commonality with any others of this general type. Suggest your first step is get a manual -if you don't have one- and then decide if this really is a typical 7x12. Try Surplus Center for a low volume, low pressure pump. If it's like my Wilton, it doesn't need a lot of flow (in fact, high flow just blows coolant all over the shop and makes a mess).

 

[RHayes]

I haven't been able to find a manual for this saw. It really doesn't look like other parts will interchange. Different blade guides, different down feed cylinder , different motor drive gear box, no cast iron, but I did find out the blades are 107".(I measured 108" initially) Some of the blade manufacturers have this model listed on their charts for a 107" blade but they don't specify a width. One chart said it could use 1/4-3/4" wide bands but I'm not convinced. I have a 3/4" coming as well as new bearings. The bearings are all 6202Z which are only 11mm wide and not double as I have seen in pictures, so I am wondering how effective they will stabilize a 3/4" band.

The down cylinder is working well. It sits horizontally on the back side and the feed has a full range of drop speed controlled by the needle valve in the upper middle of frame. The knob was missing so made one out of aluminum. Coming up with a wheel or handle for the vice will be next.

If anyone recognizes any similarities to other models I would appreciate any information.

 

[RHayes]

I got the Dayton 5Z023 up and running so thought I would add to the thread. I put a 3/4" Disston Bi-metalic 10-14 variable tooth blade on it. Seems that this is the one and only width for this saw. I ordered a 108" before seeing a chart that specs a 107" and it works fine with ample adjustment.

The 6202z bearings ride in about the middle of the blade which once adjusted are holding fine and the saw cuts accurate. I first had trouble adjusting the blade guide blocks and found a previous owner had drilled through the adjustment blocks into their mounts and installed a pair of 1/8" roll pins on both set ups. No problem once they were removed. I suspect the previous owner had some problems with the vise. The screw part is 1"x8 l.h. thread and needed a new nut and spacer/attachment block to the notched movable part, a new crank as well.

One drawback is angle cutting. The fixed jaw can be bolted in two positions: square, and 45 deg. I fabricated a cam/hold down that works well when substituted for one of the bolts on the fixed jaw. Can post pics if anyone is interested.

Overall I like it a lot and only have about $200 in it. It is set up for coolant but no pump. If there is some difficult material to be cut, I have a pump made for tile cutting saws that might work but just dry for now.