728-VT Nut for tramming head

andrewgr

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I want to tram the head of the mill-- it's off by like 4x what the manual says I should aim for.

There are two nuts that need to be loosened. Both of them are located in relatively small enclosures, such that getting a ratchet head on the nut is not feasible. There's certainly no room for an impact wrench.

I got the left nut loose without too much trouble.

The right one, however, is defeating me. I have used enough pressure to slice off shavings of metal from both the nut and from the wrench as well. I've used WD40 twice per day for 3 days in a row. It doesn't budge *at all*. No give whatsoever.

I'd be willing to buy a new tool if it would help-- that's how I got to looking at impact wrenches. But tonight I hurt my wrist a bit, I'm just not physically capable of applying more force using a hand wrench.

Any suggestions?
 
Try real penetrating oil, PB Blaster is good. If you have ATF, and some acetone, 50:50 mix is really good, after that I would think heat on the nut will also work.
 
As Aukai pointed out, heat might be a very good option. Using a Micro Torch would probably be the best option. Of course, you are going to burn some paint. Don't start your mill on fire!
The ATF and acetone is something that I have never tried. Keep in mind that the acetone will most likely take the paint off wherever you apply it.
 
I just had the exact same experience on the same machine (and busted knuckles to show for it). My eventual solution was the crappy 19mm wrench they include with some help from a 4 pound mallet.

Now my X is within a couple tenths (measured at ~6in dia). Y is a thou and a half out and I’m not super stoked about pulling this whole thing apart again to try and shim it into shape. Project for another day I guess.
 
Its usually not a good idea to use a ratcheting wrench to loosen a really stuck bolt or nut. When the ratchet mechanism fails, your knuckles are going to go somewhere not very pleasant.
 
Using the extra long wrench, I was able to get the nut loose, and trammed the head. It's got .002 runout over about a 6" radius. I know I can do better than that, but I'm going to need to move the whole mill to another spot within the next couple of months, so I think I'll save that frustration for another day. :)

I'm going to take my first cut of metal as soon as my wife is up for it-- she's incredibly supportive of this (very expensive) new hobby, and actually bought the mill for me. I want her to be there for the first cut. She works all day today, so it might be tonight, or might be tomorrow night. I'll probably post a picture.

Thanks for your help, everyone!
 
Using the extra long wrench, I was able to get the nut loose, and trammed the head. It's got .002 runout over about a 6" radius. I know I can do better than that, but I'm going to need to move the whole mill to another spot within the next couple of months, so I think I'll save that frustration for another day. :)

I'm going to take my first cut of metal as soon as my wife is up for it-- she's incredibly supportive of this (very expensive) new hobby, and actually bought the mill for me. I want her to be there for the first cut. She works all day today, so it might be tonight, or might be tomorrow night. I'll probably post a picture.

Thanks for your help, everyone!
Wow, thats a special lady! Ill bet she knows how much you appreciate her!
 
I managed to budge mine with just a box wrench and a good deal of exertion so I have no additional advice.
Next up, be prepared for how they painted it after they bolted it together. I had to "cut" the seams with a utility knife to get it to move.
 
I have the same mill and struggled with tramming the X axis. Those nuts must have been tightened by gorillas.
Really don't understand why they had to do that.

I used a fixture plate and shim stock under the fixture plate to tram the X and Y axis. Don't ever plan on using the dovetails and have standardized on the fixture plate so this actually works better for me.
 
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