6” Chuck decision

[Bryan40g]

Hey y’all. Having a very difficult decision on what chuck to purchase. My bonus money is burning a hole in my pocket and I wanna buy a very high quality 3 jaw chuck before I end up needing the money for something else. I know most will say forget the 3 jaw and buy a 4 jaw but that is not what I’m looking for. I’m not even a wannabe machinist, I more of a maker of things. Metal wood, plastic whatever. I also don’t mind spending big bucks as long as I get what I paid for and it’s of high quality. That being said I don’t wanna waste money if it’s not necessary. Ok all that out of the way here is my problem.

I have looked and looked and looked at chucks from PBA, Bison, Gator, TMX, and so on. Not looking for used as I’m not comfortable spending big bucks hoping I will get a good chuck. I’m thinking that a direct mount chuck is good enough for me as I feel a set-tru or tru-adjust chuck may not be necessary for me. Plus I don’t own an adapter plate.

Is a direct mount a bad choice? I’m a review reader as normally the reviews are all I have to go on and there’s not many reviews out there on direct mount chucks. Maybe there’s a reason for that. Not sure. Would a plain back be a better choice? I won’t be using the chuck on anything other than the lathe. Infact I doubt the 3 jaw will be removed much from the lathe once mounted. Eventually I’ll buy a 4 jaw when needed.

Currently I’m looking at a 6-1/4” Bison 3245-6 on Grizzly $694.95 with a 10% discount, a PBA 0623521 6” on Travers Tool $100 bucks off total $980.99 those are the two I’m leaning towards. Thoughts or options? Need help.

 

[parshal]

I have a Bison direct mount 3-jaw set-tru. I think it might be an 8"? Regardless, I don't think you can go wrong. I have a 4-jaw and have used it, maybe, once. The set-tru is just simpler to use. I don't think you can go wrong with your choice.

 

[NC Rick]

To me three-jaw is the thing to have. You can chuck hexagonal parts and everything! 0 set, adjust true or anything. I actually purchased one from Shars and it’s pretty darn good. Some de burring would have been nice!
buck are now made in Taiwan and I’m sure they are great. Not sure if Bison are still made in Poland or not. I would not entertain a chuck that did not have American standard,2 part jaws. Soft jaws are cheap and absolutely priceless objects.

 

[mksj]

I prefer a set-true if you are spending that kind of money, I have the Setrite PBA 3J and Bison chucks, can't go wrong with them. TMX is made in Poland, use to be the US distributor for Bison but now make their own chucks. They are as accurate as the Bison/TMX, QC wise depends on the model, but maybe a small margin below the Bison in some fit/finish issues. Gator are Bison copies, I have heard more complaints about them over the last couple of years as to their fir/finish. Shar's carries a higher (Chinese) quality line of chucks in a their version of a set-true line which are not bad at the price point. I recall two other individuals that bought their 6J scroll and they worked well enough. If you want a direct mount then either the Bison or the PBA would be a good choice, a set-true style works a bit better if you need to do multiple ops on the same piece and it is removed/reinserted in the chuck.

 

[mikey]

Bryan, the advantages to a direct mount chuck are that they reduce overhang to a minimum and, in general, are machined a bit more accurately because they are ground while mounted on a D1 reference spindle. They are also significantly lighter, a thing your spindle bearings will appreciate.

You want to keep in mind that a 3 jaw is a first operation chuck. I'm all for set-tru style chucks but unless you are willing to indicate parts in, which is easier to do with a 4 jaw, I think set-tru 3 jaw chucks are overly expensive and unnecessary. For most first op work, a standard 3 jaw will be balls on accurate and I would be looking more for a quality chuck so that it lasts the rest of your lifetime. If you need to do a lot of second operations work, buy a good 4 jaw.

I don't own a Bison chuck but I hear they are quite good. I own a Pratt Burnerd International, a Yuasa set-tru style 3 jaw, 2 Rohm 3 jaws and 2 Rohm 4jaws. I would agree that the better chucks all have universal replaceable jaws so you can reverse them, replace them or use soft jaws. Higher end chucks are machined better and hold their accuracy longer. As a result, they hold better than cheap chucks so I applaud your intention to buy a good chuck.

 

[parshal]

I'm all for set-tru style chucks but unless you are willing to indicate parts in, which is easier to do with a 4 jaw, I think set-tru 3 jaw chucks are overly expensive and unnecessary.

I'm not trying to be argumentative at all so please don't take it that way. I find the set-tru 3 jaw to be much easier and quicker to indicate than the 4 jaw. So much so that I avoid using that 4 jaw at all costs.

 

[mikey]

Nope, no problem. I am very fast with a 4 jaw, and more accurate.

 

[Bryan40g]

Thanks all for the two cents. A set-try is going to require a mounting plate correct? If I chose a direct mount with no back plate required what would anyone recommend? It is but isn’t the money. I will not be doing much in the way of high precision machining in my garage. One day maybe but if I were I’d probably spend the money and buy a 4 jaw chuck but I want the quick convenience of a 3 jaw.
So any thoughts on a direct mount 3 jaw? So far leaning towards a semi-steel Bison. What are your thoughts on this one,

https://www.grizzly.com/products/bison-6-1-4-d1-4-3-jaw-chuck/t10397 it’s semi steel. According to what I read the lathe I purchased tops out at 2000rpm therefore a forged chuck isn’t necessary in that regards. However if they are more accurate, I might be inclined.
Here’s a cheaper adjustable style. I’ll have to buy a back plate but overall cost would be much less.
https://www.travers.com/easy-set8482-self-centering-universal-chuck/p/63-500-056/

 

[Bryan40g]

Bryan, the advantages to a direct mount chuck are that they reduce overhang to a minimum and, in general, are machined a bit more accurately because they are ground while mounted on a D1 reference spindle. They are also significantly lighter, a thing your spindle bearings will appreciate.

You want to keep in mind that a 3 jaw is a first operation chuck. I'm all for set-tru style chucks but unless you are willing to indicate parts in, which is easier to do with a 4 jaw, I think set-tru 3 jaw chucks are overly expensive and unnecessary. For most first op work, a standard 3 jaw will be balls on accurate and I would be looking more for a quality chuck so that it lasts the rest of your lifetime. If you need to do a lot of second operations work, buy a good 4 jaw.

I don't own a Bison chuck but I hear they are quite good. I own a Pratt Burnerd International, a Yuasa set-tru style 3 jaw, 2 Rohm 3 jaws and 2 Rohm 4jaws. I would agree that the better chucks all have universal replaceable jaws so you can reverse them, replace them or use soft jaws. Higher end chucks are machined better and hold their accuracy longer. As a result, they hold better than cheap chucks so I applaud your intention to buy a good chuck.

Thanks dude. All you said is secretly what I was thinking but wasn’t absolutely sure about. If all that is the case I think I’m gonna go for the direct mount PBA https://www.travers.com/3-jaw-self-centering-universal-lathe-chuck/p/63-500-403/
I think this will be all I ever need. Until it’s not. But a good start. Opinions

 

[mikey]

I may be wrong but my understanding is that PBA chucks are now made in China or some other country, although Travers does state that that linked one is made in England.

How averse are you to a little rust and pitting? I ask because here is a chuck that I suspect is brand new but was left to rust a bit. They cleaned it up but it needs a bit more love. This chuck was for sure made by Pratt in England. The seller is taking offers and I bet that chuck would go for closer to $500-550. Worth considering.

Edit: if you go with the ebay one, ask him if he has the chuck key.