30 wt. oil OK for the 10100 Mk.2 ??

56type

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I've been using 30 weight NON-DETERGENT oil on my Atlas 10100 Mk.2 since I got it since that is the only non-detergent oil I could find locally. Temps. in the shop are usually above 70F and frequently 80-95F range. Since shop isn't climate controlled I keep a coat of oil brushed onto all machined surfaces to guard against rust. I'm using chainsaw bar & chain oil for the gears as the viscosity is higher, but not quite a grease. IIRC grease was not to be used since it could potentially grab & hold chips cycling them thru the gears ??

My thinking on the bar & chain oil was that if a moving chainsaw chain manages to not fling all of it off then the lathe gears could use it without much trouble. The 30 weight ND oil I can find at the local tractor supply store. I haven't seen any 20 weight ND oil stocked at the O'reillys or Autozone stores which other than Wal-mart are about the only local options here. Thanks
 
grease traps contaminants
bar and chain oil is very tacky and has a lot of the same characteristics in trapping contaminants

you shouldn't have much trouble until winter, then ND30WT might be a bit thick
then switching to ND20WT would be better
AW32 hydraulic fluid would be another fluid i would consider for wintertime too
 
grease traps contaminants
bar and chain oil is very tacky and has a lot of the same characteristics in trapping contaminants

you shouldn't have much trouble until winter, then ND30WT might be a bit thick
then switching to ND20WT would be better
AW32 hydraulic fluid would be another fluid i would consider for wintertime too

Thanks...I'll look for the hydraulic fluid, though to be honest I've only machined anything once in winter after using a propane shop heater to get the temp. up. Only reason I think the ND 30 wt. is still carried locally is that so many small engines in tractors & riding mowers require it.

I always run the machine with the cover on to minimize any exposure to chips but I'm not sure what else to use on the gear train that will stay put to do it's job ??
 
I've been using Lubriplate 105 on my Atlas gear train for years, look still great. 3 in 1 oil, which is basically 20w ND, on every thing else. Mike
 
There was a huge thread on this very subject earlier this year. The modern equivalent of the recommended oil is AW46 hydraulic oil. I bought a gallon at O'Reiley's for under $20. Lifetime supply for me. Once you have the oil you need to be able to get it where you want it. I was turned onto needle oilers. Got two off of Ebay for under $10 including the shipping. McMastercar has them too. https://www.mcmaster.com/1902t127-1902T47 They work better than anything else that I have tried.
 
Tractor Supply (locally anyway) carried SAE 20 for a couple of years but seem to have dropped it. Actually, the settled upon hydraulic oil was either ISO46 or ISO68, both of which overlap SAE20.

As far as trapping shavings/swarf, anything that will stay on the gears will. And some things that won't. Chainsaw bar oil is tacky to keep from slinging off. I;ve also used Lubriplate 105 for years.

One thing better than the needle oilers for the 1 to 3 springloaded ball oilers found on various Atlas models is the flat-nosed conical tip found on some old Eagle 66 oil cans that have a rigid spout. If you hold the tip against the ball just right and push to depress the spring, all of the oil will go through the oiler and none of it runs down the front of the apron or headstock.
 
Your local orileys may stock 3 in 1 oil for motors. If not they may order it for you. It is a 20 nd oil.
 
I second mickri most hydraulic oils are non detergent and formulated for universal use. Think of a tractor that has a common oil for the gearbox and the hydraulics. I with you on the chain and bar lube. I use a molybdenum spray chain lube as it is easy to apply lasts for ages and plates the gear surfaces in use.
Couple of links to some info on grades: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/iso-grade-oil-d_1207.html

Mickri, that was a pretty in depth thread if I remember correctly. I learned a thing or three from it.
 
I've used bar oil on my MK2 also, for the gears. I don't oil the ways cause the machine is a hoopty and oil would probably mess up it's karma
Mark
 
OK...Seems to be the ISO 46 is what I should be using. I just found a 2-gal. bottle at the local walmart. Supertech ISO 46 anti-wear,corrosion inhibiting hydraulic oil. Is this OK to use ?? The description mentions circulation,splash bath, ringed oil systems supplying bearing & gears.

Also will I need to be concerned with compatibility issues between the ND 30wt. when switching to the ISO 46 ?? Or will the ISO 46 simply flush out the ND 30wt. as the changeover to ISO 46 occurs ?? Reason I ask is that I know certain bases used in grease manufacture don't play well with each other and can cause problems if mixed, not sure about the ND 30wt. & ISO 46 though. Thanks for all the replies.
 
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