3 tries and 3 fails to make a 1/4 20 thread - part 2

twooldvolvos

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Thanks to everyone who gave me pointers in my post titled "3 tries and 3 fails to make 1 1/4 20 thread". Here is an update.

First I dealt with the issue of my South Bend 10K threading dial not engaging exactly on a line. I shimmed the mounting rod and the problem was resolved. The half nut now engages exactly on the lines. I also found out my threading dial will engage at 3 positions between lines. I have 8 lines on my dial so if my math is correct, I can engage my half nut in 32 positions.

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And so I attempted another 1/4 20 thread. It worked well enough to accept my nut. I am making progress. Full disclosure: I did not use the same line each time. I just used the first line to come around.

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I think I still have a ways to go though. My problem is that the finish on the thread is not smooth. If you take a look at the image below you will see that the threads are jagged. You can count the individual ribs on each thread.

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Here is a pic of my compound set at about 29 degrees.

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And here is a pic of my cutting tool.

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So now I am wondering if any of you can help me get a better finish. One thing I need to try is to engage on the same number each time although I don't think I should have to and I am low on the patience I would need to wait for the number since I am running in back gears. If you look at the magnified thread, the individual small steps on each thread are very uniform. It almost seems like I don't have my cutting tool or my angles set properly. Why is the trailing edge of the thread so stepped? I'm thinking that each step is one pass of my lathe because the number of steps is about the number of passes I made to get the nut to screw on. My passes were between about 15 thou and 5 thou or so. Thanks everyone for your help.
 
Watch a video on YouTube and pay particular attention to the angle of your compound compared to the videos. It almost looks like you are selecting the complement of 29 degrees, rather than 29 degrees.
 
It is quite obvious that the compound is set incorrectly; set it straight in, that is, 90 degrees to the axis of the spindle, then rotate it 30 degrees to that setting by counting degrees, not reading the degree settings on the compound; lots of people do the 29 degree thing, or whatever, I was taught in school to use 30 degrees, and all the journeymen in the shop also did so.
 
Watch a video on YouTube and pay particular attention to the angle of your compound compared to the videos. It almost looks like you are selecting the complement of 29 degrees, rather than 29 degrees.

Ericc, I think you are on to something. Now I know that my compound has 2 zero marks.

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The first image shows the mark on the back side of my compound. It reads about 61 degrees. The second image shows the zero on the headstock side. This is the one I set to about 29 degrees. Did I use the wrong zero mark for my compound?
 
@twooldvolvos

You are making definite progress, just a couple more little things and you're golden........and don't worry this happens so often it is kinda like a "right of passage" for us hobby guys learning to cut threads.

Some lathe vendors mark zero degrees as the top-slide/compound parallel to the cross-slide (perpendicular to the lathe axis).
Some lathe vendors mark zero degrees as the top-slide/compound perpendicular to the cross-slide (parallel to the lathe axis).

Apparently, your lathe does both depending on which zero line you use!
I have never seen that before.
My lathe only has a zero mark at the back.

Here's a few other posts about it:
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/threading-help.49488/post-416851
https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/what-am-i-doing-wrong.54207/post-449371

Notice the uneven angle of your threads; the leading edge has one angle and the trailing edge has a different angle.
Also, that ragged ring and steps in one face.
Those are the two tell-tale signs of this common mistake.

-brino
 
I bet the comments above will get you going the right direction. As you get close, do a spring pass, same depth of cut as the previous pass. It will take a little more off. More importantly, it will help clean up burrs and chatter marks. Lightly running a file over it will help get the rest, if any. You can also use a triangular file to get down in the thread form. That's usually not needed once you get some practice though.
 
Ericc, I think you are on to something. Now I know that my compound has 2 zero marks.

View attachment 357856View attachment 357857

The first image shows the mark on the back side of my compound. It reads about 61 degrees. The second image shows the zero on the headstock side. This is the one I set to about 29 degrees. Did I use the wrong zero mark for my compound?

Update. Several of you figured out correctly that I was 90 degrees off on my compound angle. Thanks for your wisdom. They say seventh time is the charm, right? It a good thing because I am about out of stock. Check out my latest thread. 1/4 20 from brass. I used any random line on my thread counter. They all seemed to work.

IMG_3033.JPG
 
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