1929 Ford Model A Front end alignment

Martin W

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After adjusting my draglink decided I need to do a front end alignment on my Model A roadster pickup. When I say alignment I really mean adjusting the toe in, to keep the truck from wanting to wander.
I watched some YouTube videos and kinda borrowed an idea of making a spring loaded rod which will be spread between the two wheels. After measuring the front, I will roll the car forward with the rod still sandwiched between the tires. I will have two chins hanging on each end so I can keep it even from the floor.. I can measure how much the rod moves and this will tell me how much toe in or out I have. Model A,s are supposed to have 1/16th to 3/32nds toe in.
I still need to attach the chains and a short piece of measuring tape so I can get an accurate measurement.
If anyone has a better idea I am all ears.
Thanks
Cheers
Martin
 

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I've done this without a complicated tool. jack up the car, then hold a ball point pen against the middle of the tread while spinning the wheel, making a thin line. You can easily compare the front and back measurements, and the chance of some irregularity in the side of the tire is eliminated.
 
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I just use two 3’ levels and a tape measure or string. Need two people though.
Pierre
 
Would really like to see a picture of the whole pick up. your approach looks better than my tape measure to set the toe in on the 4455 John Deere.
Here are a couple pictures. She is going to get new paint , maybe this winter. Runs great.
I've done this without a complicated tool. jack up the car, then hold a ball point pen against the middle of the tread while spinning the wheel. You can easily compare the front and back measurements, and the chance of some irregularity in the side of the tire is eliminated.
I just use two 3’ levels and a tape measure or string. Need two people though.
Pierre
Excellent ideas. Sometimes I over think things.
Cheers
Martin
 

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A 4x4x8 makes a great platform for a tape measure
Measure from center of tread in the front
Move 4x4 to the rear of the tire and measure center to center of tread
Adjust as necessary
 
Also make sure you are checking at the horizontal point of the wheel. If you get above or below you may pick up some of the camber adjustment and that may make your toe incorrect.
 
I've done this without a complicated tool. jack up the car, then hold a ball point pen against the middle of the tread while spinning the wheel, making a thin line. You can easily compare the front and back measurements, and the chance of some irregularity in the side of the tire is eliminated.
One of the best front end guys I worked with used this method with a proper toe bar.
It works well!
 
I picked a 65 Mustang when I was in high school and then modified in pursuit of performance for the next 40 years. After rebuilding the front end the first time I went to an alignment shop and they applied the published settings from FORD and the car was not great at high speeds or over bumps (bump steer) etc. I was clueless when it came to caster camber etc. at the time. Years later I got serious about making the car handle and after reading a lot and frequenting the corner carvers forum, I learned that the published alignment specifications from FORD where guaranteed to make the car handle like a bus. Recommendations from that forum, purchase a caster camber gauge and do it your self with the known good specifications. HUGE improvemen!

I then converted to rack and pinion, double adjustable coil-overs mounted on the LCA instead of the UCA and added a bump steer kit all dialed in with my trusty caster camber gauge. The car now turns like a go-kart and is completely stable at 140+MPH. So short story perhaps a caster camber gauge is a worthwhile investment.
 
Also back in the day those older Mustangs also had a problem with the front spring/shock towers flexing on braking and power. Back than we would in stall a brace from one tower to the other. Later years they installed braces to correct that issue.
 
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