1911 Recoil Spring weight scale

Chubbo

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This weight scale I built to measure the weight of any 1911 recoil spring weight, be it Colt or their many clones, or the mfg. of the spring. I had lost tract of the weight of several recoil springs that I have, and didn't know how to determine their weights, so, I built this Weight Scale to weigh them. I didn't know of a factory made scale, nor could I have afforded one if there was such a thing. When I got all of my springs weighted, and tagged, I sold the scales to a gunsmith, as my shooting days are over, due to authorities.
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Wish I knew how to even start that project!!!! I have some springs that have been shot for quite a few rounds and I wish I knew what they were presently. Also a few strays from the original pkg need ID'd.So very sorry that you are out of the arena shooting wise.
 
Hi, Jerico:
The reason that I built the scale, is because I could not find something that would do the job commercially made. There might be such a thing, I don't know, but I probably could not afford it if it were. So, I piddled, and fiddled until I made one that worked. The scale was made a year ago or more, and I have give up shooting, and the use of my hands have gone to pot, and also my memory, and ability to explain things. But, all you have to do is use a scale that measures in ounces, a rod that fits tightly inside a recoil spring, and fasten it to the bottom of the scale, then put a crank handle on another rod, thread it, and fasten it to the other end of the scale, through a threaded block, so that when you turn it, the spring compresses completely, and at that point the scale will read the weight of the compressed spring right on the nose. It's really pretty fool proof. Hope that helps a little.
Chubbo
 
That is a beautiful piece of work, Chubbo, but pretty Rube Goldberg, which has it's own appeal. I got a much simpler idea years ago from some website that I don't recall. I welded a 5/16"- 3/8" rod (diameter just large enough for the recoil spring to slide easily over) vertically to a 16 ga sheet metal plate. Mark the rod at full compression of the spring + thickness of your plastic pusher, drill a hole in a piece of 1/8" plastic just large enough to slip over the rod but not over the spring. Put the plate with the rod on the scale, slip the spring over the rod and using the piece of plastic slide the spring down to just above full compression of the spring and note the weight on the scale. Measurements come out fairly consistent.
 
I've always wondered how important spring rate was in a 1911. For competitive shooting, I can sure see it, every little bit helps.

I have two 1911s, actually one 1918 original 1911 (not 1911A1) and a 1953 Government Model, both are Colts I've owned them for years and my Uncle, who gave them to me, owned them for several decades before that. His father-in-law gave them to him a long time before that, around the late fifties. Neither of them had a clue about pistols so the springs were never changed.

I shoot both on an annual basis (at least that often) with never a problem. So someone please tell me why it is so important to change the springs after 1000 rounds, or pick-your-number rounds ?
 
If it feeds and ejects reliably and the barrel lugs aren't preening the frame channel the spring is good. Check the frame channel
 
Nice scale Chubbo! For a quick way to measure the spring rate. I put a pin in a collet and place the spring over the pin. I then place a digital kitchen scale under the spring and lower the spindle to compress the spring. Measure the force at different spring heights to calculate the spring rate. Lee Springs (leespring.com) is an excellent source for springs and information about springs.
 
I use a similar method as a quick check on assembled 1911s and similar guns. I use a brass punch in a stand, so it can sit vertical on a digital postal scale. Then I center the pistol's spring cap over the punch and press down until the cap is depressed a small amount -1/8" or so. Accurate and repeatable to within an ounce or so. You do have to make sure your spring and associated parts are clean, lightly lubricated without binding.
 
If it feeds and ejects reliably and the barrel lugs aren't preening the frame channel the spring is good. Check the frame channel

Sounds good to me, I've always been a proponent of "If it ain't broke ..."
 
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