Yet Another Lathe Wiring Issue/ Question

Many times the diagram is inside the connection box. If not, maybe the manufactures name on the motor data plate would lead to a diagram.
 
lowlife said:
Ok WTH? It runs when I put the programming into D002 and turn the switch on. It draws 5 or so amps. When I go back to monitoring Hz it goes to 11 and no further. Screw the skid loader this is going to require the backhoe!!!!! Maybe if I hit it hard enough it will cooperate!
Click to expand...
Give me an earthmover or a bigger hammer any day.
Self esteem can be over rated sometimes. Good Luck
 
Can you post a picture of the control box speed relays? Do you have choice between "constant torque" and "constant HP" in the drive settings?
This may also be helpful.
12-30.jpg
 
I will post some pics later. Thanks for everyones help. And everyone that is Judeo Christian a happy easter to you and yours. My daughter and Son in Law (really a son as we kinda raised him) are coming down to visit and cook. Today is a good day
 
The motor plate data is nearly impossible to read w/o pulling the motor. I was able to get some info from the data plate though. Google gave up nothing sadly. As far as wiring in the above diagram #4 is the closest to what I have. I have 3 stars in the nomenclature plate. Is there a way to use a multi meter to determine which of the 6 wires are the high speed? I cant remember the numbers and letters off the top of my head but it was like A1,2,3 and B 1,2,3 that went to the motor. Honestly I really think I have the 3 correct wires going to the high speed.

Yes I wired directly from the VFD to the motor wires I thought were the correct ones. IMG_9758.JPG IMG_9757.JPG IMG_9758.JPG IMG_9757.JPG
 
Also these were included with the lathe. The gentleman was in the process of converting the lathe to the Vari drive when he died. Maybe there was a reason for that?IMG_9754.JPG IMG_9752.JPG
 
One thing I see right now is some of the terminals are rusted, corroded, burned. You may need to clean them up if you intend to use them. I wonder if the motor is any good since you say he was converting it to the vari-drive. Did it run on the phase converter? Did it ever run for you before you added the VFD?
What's the device in the lower right of the second picture? Looks like a fuse block?
 
Information is fleeting. He was a machinist by trade and this was his home unit. He specialized as I understand it making large hydraulic cylinders. This makes sense since everything he included with the lathe requires 2 men and a strong boy to lift. He died and left it too another machinist who let it sit in a heated shop for almost 20 years and never used it. When I got it the Vari Drive was not completely hooked up. Only partially, thats what leads me to believe he died while hooking it up. He was as I understand it he was in his 80's when he passed so who knows how long it sat before even the 20 years. There is so much stuff included with it I'm overwhelmed. Including a real nice Thermac toolpost grinder. I was unsure of the motor when I bought it but figured I could sell the vari drive and/or the Phase a matic to offset the motor price.

I would like to just hook it up directly to the VFD and eliminate all the clutter and corrosion. I am leaning towards just getting a new 3hp 3ph motor. They are not too bad at Surplus center, then I would be done with it, and know what I am dealing with. There are some on Cl locally but a new offshore unit is like 225.00 plus shipping. Just not looking forward to replacing the monster

So what would the lever be on the end of the keyed lead be? The wires go from 2 micro switches to the FC and RC relays so I believe it may be for forward and reverse? If this is the case then the VFD would negate them as well. You can see it in the first pic> Its the black handed lever just above the "L" in Enterprise-L and a close u in the last pic IIRC

http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/enterprise-el-2-help-needed.33523/#post-282750
 
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As far as replacement motors go I would like a single speed 1800 rpm. I assume 1750 would be okay if significantly cheaper? Under 10A. And the same bolt mounting pattern. Anything I am missing here? Thanks again.
 
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