Workbench protector

I use Alvin cutting mats for a portion of one of my workbenches. They are durable when it comes to dropping stuff parts and stuff on them; they are pretty dense. I do get oil, WD40, etc...incidentally when working and doesn't seem to affect them. Mine aren't soaked in oils though.

Some downsides: solvents (especially strong ones like acetone) will immediately dissolve the ink and soften PVC material until cleaned up. The mats will slide around with weight on them unless you do something to prevent that (mine are on a hardboard bench). PVC mats warp bad with heat.
Try using 3M Transfer Tape (was "only" $20 when I got mine 18 months ago) around the perimeter to keep the mat from sliding. I got the reverse-wound tape so I could use it with one of these:

3M ATG 700 Adhesive Applicator.png
Transfer tape is basically adhesive on release paper (double-sided tape without any substrate): holds strong, but a b***h to install without the right tool. Clough42 used some a little while ago on one of his projects, but I can't track it down.
 
I’d forgotten the ultimate tear down bench I used to have in my parents old house. My dad worked in Yosemite Park for 35yrs and knew everybody up there and because he was a salesman he was on all the loading docks all the time. When something got put on the dock it was basically thrown away. They replaced the butcher table top which was 3’x6’x2”thick piece of UHMW and dad stuck in his truck and brought it home. I built it into the workbench out in the garage with several pieces left over which I still have and use for small projects. UHMW is all but indestructible and easy to clean and stuff slides on it easily. Wonderful for tearing down engines and machines. I have a 2’x2’x 1/4” piece of UHMW I put on my work stations for heavy duty stuff.
 
ChazzC mentioned, "I used Masonite on previous wood-top benches, but back then (also when your Dad built his) it was durable and (somewhat) stain resistant".

If you're considering Masonite, there are two types - you want "tempered"... it's treated to be harder and more moisture-resistant. Stay away from non-tempered, it's useless in this application. Tempered hardboard is my go-to for sacrificial workbench tops (and was my late Dad's as well, back in the day). A couple of countersunk brass screws around the perimeter make replacement a breeze.
 
I have 1/8" clear Lexan on top of 3/4" plywood. Got it for free from the guy who was replacing a large sign. I'ts been on the bench for 30yrs and has seen every kind of punishment you could name, and has held up great. Mike
 
I can't speak to how those would work but I can tell you about what we use. I have two Formica desk tops that we put on two of our benches. They work great! We service my son's Vintage Racing Triumph GT6 on both of them. Rebuilding differentials, gearboxes, engines etc. They don't soak up oil and you can slide heavy parts around easily on them. I also made a table top for my drill press out of our old kitchen counter, works great there also.

Richard
Thanks. That's a good idea. I have another bench with a Formica top that is nearly 30 years old. Still in good shape, though lots of battle scars. :) Pretty impervious to solvents too.
In this case, it is a butcher block maple top and I'd like to prevent major dings from dropped parts, dragging hard edges, etc. A sheet of Formica laid on top would work.
 
Bought one 2 years ago and I like it. Great for photos of parts projects you want to share. Wipes clean, so what's not to like.
 

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Thanks. That's a good idea. I have another bench with a Formica top that is nearly 30 years old. Still in good shape, though lots of battle scars. :) Pretty impervious to solvents too.
In this case, it is a butcher block maple top and I'd like to prevent major dings from dropped parts, dragging hard edges, etc. A sheet of Formica laid on top would work.
Assuming it is end grain maple it will resist almost everything. A couple of coats of polyurethane and periodic application of paste wax will keep it happy.
 
Assuming it is end grain maple it will resist almost everything. A couple of coats of polyurethane and periodic application of paste wax will keep it happy.
Long grain, so not as tough.
 
Bought one 2 years ago and I like it. Great for photos of parts projects you want to share. Wipes clean, so what's not to like.
That's similar to what I bought. Definitely brightness up the work surface too :cool:
 
Not sure how I missed this for so long? I'll tell you what I do for exactly that, which works spectacular for me, maybe for you too?

Anyone have experience with those cut-resistant, multilayer, workbench protectors. The ones with the rules on the surface?

They're great to throw on the workbench for a writing surface, but as has been said in several ways, they're more for "crafting" and less for "working". I keep one on my desk at work. It's literally in the middle of a repair/fabrication area of a busy shop. It's great for writing, mouse padding, easy clean up if I choose to have my lunch there, but the workbench wrecks 'em quick. They're good, but short lived.

Won't be doing much cutting on it, but disassembling equipment, maneuvering heavy things on it, etc.


Cheap floppy mud flaps work great for this. A little cusion, a little "sticktivity", still can drag stuff around. Bomb proof, chemical proof, and tough as nails. Toss it on the floor if you want to set something there that shouldn't really be set on the concrete. Toss it in front of a lower cabinet if you have to reach in the back and the floor doesn't get along with your knees any more. Toss it in your truck bed if you want to keep something by the tailgate. Toss it (if it's clean.....) on the carpet in the back of your trunk or SUV if you've got something in a cardboard box that you know is gonna slide all over... They also cut well with (old) tin snips, and make a great raw material for shims, isolators, protectors, and such, if you have a need for such things. Check out your local Fleetpride, which I'll link to because they're everywhere, or any other heavy truck parts store nearby.

These are the type I have come to prefer. The "chevrons" are raised about an eighth of an inch. Holds oil, screws, keeps round things from rolling away. They also have a flat variety, but they're not so popular, might not be right in stock. Still cheap though.


 
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