Work shed completed, have water blown up into inside walls

Thanks Lee,
yes, the contractor wants to use heavy duty oil base corking, but Not being a builder, I am not sure that adding a 1 by 4 to cover all the seams, corked along the lenght of the boards on top and bottom, but must get caulking in each vertical groove, or water will run along grooves and rot the wood.
Then I would ask him to cap all the boards because too cold to apply stain.
I am willing to pay him extra to do this , if it is a sound idea.
Does this sound like a smart fix?
Thanks,
ome
 
ome said:
Thanks Lee,
yes, the contractor wants to use heavy duty oil base corking, but Not being a builder, I am not sure that adding a 1 by 4 to cover all the seams, corked along the lenght of the boards on top and bottom, but must get caulking in each vertical groove, or water will run along grooves and rot the wood.
Then I would ask him to cap all the boards because too cold to apply stain.
I am willing to pay him extra to do this , if it is a sound idea.
Does this sound like a smart fix?
Thanks,
ome
Click to expand...
Ok, for starters, I have always felt that covering one of those seams with a 1x that in turn has no z bzr of it's own leaves you with rot sooner. If you cut in some z bar, you have the same issue in a different spot. For this reason I see nothing gained by adding a 1x at this point. I also wouldn't take money from a customer for fixing up a leak. Lets look at the system for a minute. you set a sheet down on top of the flashing which catches water run off. The wood then wicks up said water. If it's not Masonite, it probably won't swell noticeably, but over time the wetting and drying repeatedly leads to rot. Caulking in the sheeting well helps slow this process. It won't eliminate it. Flashing that fits snugly helps too. You typically want to use the product made to fit your situation, not exceed it. If your flashing was made out of al coil stock on a brake table typically carried by a vinyl siding contractor it probably fits loosely. Most folks can't get a full piece of metal bent tighter than 3/4" due to the way the table is made. t111 looking products are mostly 1/2". The lumber yard carries galvy metal bent to fit nicely. Now as to using oil based caulk, I'm not sure what is being referred to. Typically under latex or oil based paint, latex caulk is used. It lasts much longer if painted over. You mentioned that the siding was stained, not painted. The caulking I would trust unpainted for a harsh season can be painted over, but I would have to read labels and consult the painter before saying it would take stain. If it would, it is also very stiff and hard to work with. It is mostly used around roofing as it seals better than silicone and won't react with shingles like silicone. One name brand is geo cell. I believe the label calls it an elastomeric sealant. It is great. Another brand that makes it is Lexel. Is your siding real wood treated with a pigmented stain, or is it painted? I tell you what , I'll shoot you a pm with my number and I would be glad to visit with you if you like.
 
ome said:
Hi Xalky,
do u know of any good permanent options to seal where the z bar is?
thanks,
ome
Click to expand...
If i understand your situation, it sounds like the leak is occurring above the z flashing rather than beneath it. This might not be a leak at all but a wicking effect of the water that sits on top of the z flashing after the rain. Unfortunately there's not a whole lot that can be done at this point. You can attempt to cut those top sheets back a little but you'll probably create more problems than it solves. Ideally the top sheet of t1-11 should have been spaced up off of the z flashing about 1/4" so that the top sheet is not sitting directly in that puddle, but nobody ever does that.:))

Maybe saturating the bottom edge of the top sheet with some silicone spray between the z bar and top sheet, using one of those little straws that comes with the can of spray might repel the water away better. Maybe a product like thomsons water seal. Trying to saturate that bottom with the product. Maybe you can get at it better from the inside and attempt to drip or spray it doewn the z-bar from the inside of the shed. The only issue you might have after doing this is that it may be impossible to ever get paint to stick to that area in the future. Pick your poison

Just thinking out loud and throwing ideas out there.

Caulking outside between the z and the top sheet will only make the problem worse, retaining the water. Personally, If it's not an actual leak, I'd just leave it alone. I don't think it changes the atmosphere inside the shed much at all. A shed like that is at the mercy of the outside environment, when it's dry outside it'll be dry inside. When it's damp outside , it'll be damp inside. Short of finishing it inside with a vapor barrier and climate control, you're gonna get what you get.
 
Ok, so here are a couple of thoughts. Years ago before they made all these fantasy flashings they would overlap the bottom sheet with a sheet that hung maybe an inch below the seam. The wall would no longer be flush at the seam. Now since you already have the wall in place and the flashing is on the gable ends all you need to do is add additional T-111 and allow the 111 to hang just a bit lower then the seam. Now this piece needs to be fitted as if it were the original piece. The original piece will act as a spacer and allow the second piece to fit over it. Yes it adds some cost, but it will do the job. Now this could have been done with the original piece but you would have needed to make up some padding out of ripped down studs the same thickness as the plywood. I don't think I have ever seen 1/2 inch T-111, it is usually sold as 3/8 inch or 5/8 inch. In the end you will have double thickness, but it would be a permanent repair.

The second way you may get away with is to use a 1 x 3 piece of pine and cut a bevel at around 15 or 20 degrees. This bevel will be placed up and nailed horizontally over the seam. Now the top will need to be calked to fill the recesses of the T-111. You have this same issue with the top of the door and window. The only difference is you have and overhang protecting them from the elements. Either way will work it just depends on how much work you want to do as well as overall cost. Both will be attractive. I never did like the looks of the plywood Z flashing. Here is another way, you could also cedar shingle over the upper plywood covering the seam. The first course is a double thickness. May require a couple of bundles of white cedar, b grade would work well.

Paul
 
After speaking with the OP, it sounds like his contractor was happy to make it all good and has the situation well in hand.:))
 
Thank you all for your wisdom and sharing.
I love this website, and the people here are all so friendly, especially to someone who is a beginner at much of these practices and dis iplines.
Ome
 
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