Work shed completed, have water blown up into inside walls

O

ome

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Ho Guys,
having wind blown rain coming up where aluminum flashing is at points where the two plywood t-1 11 panels meet, to make the 12 foot high wAll on a lean to shed.
Anyone have a permanent solution for this problem?
besides just corking.
Thanks,
ome
 
The proper flashing for t111 would look like a z from the end. It's commonly referred to as z-bar. Is this the flashing you are looking at? Are your leaks out in the field or where a roof buts into the siding?
 
Yes leeq, I think you nailed his situation. It's a "z" flashing, sometimes called a "drip cap".
 
I am curious as to exactly what type of flashing is being used on the wall described. As it stands, I think we can figure something out once I can picture in my head how his project is put together. I agree 110% that caulking it would be a short lived solution. Rotten siding always results from that approach.
 
The proper flashing for t111 would look like a z from the end. It's commonly referred to as z-bar. Is this the flashing you are looking at? Are your leaks out in the field or where a roof buts into the siding?
Thanks ,
it is a z bar that was put on top and in between the panels that make up the walls.
Shed is 12' high at the highest, and 8' at the lowest point on this lean to shed.
He used 4 by 8, I wish he had used 4' by 12', then there would be no seam.
This seam or z bar runs horizontally at the edge of the t-1 11 8' side. Then another panel of t-11 is put butt against top of 8' panel to get the 12' height.
The windswept rain is driving the rain up the z bar inside the shed on the upper side of the zbar inside.
He only used stain on the outside , so i could see the water marks inside and above the zbar.
Ome
 
I am curious as to exactly what type of flashing is being used on the wall described. As it stands, I think we can figure something out once I can picture in my head how his project is put together. I agree 110% that caulking it would be a short lived solution. Rotten siding always results from that approach.
Thanks Lee,
here are some pics

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
My shed is constructed exactly the same way, and I have the same issue. It's been up for around 25 years, and aside from the discoloration, I haven't seen any sign of ply separation or rotting. Of course, I haven't gotten up on a ladder and poked at it either!
 
My shed is constructed exactly the same way, and I have the same issue. It's been up for around 25 years, and aside from the discoloration, I haven't seen any sign of ply separation or rotting. Of course, I haven't gotten up on a ladder and poked at it either!
Thanks,
I am concerned about increase moisture and humidity because of this problem.
I do not want to bring my tools in the shed for reasons they may rust faster.
Dehumidifier is not an option, but i will have a 5000 watt heater to heat up the shed a bit when really cold out.
Any options would be appreciated.
Ome
 
Yes leeq, I think you nailed his situation. It's a "z" flashing, sometimes called a "drip cap".
Hi Xalky,
do u know of any good permanent options to seal where the z bar is?
thanks,
ome
 
This is a very typical place for rot because of exactly what OME is looking at. It looks like a proper job, but this is the weak point. I think a good caulking of the outside prior to paint will slow it down for years. That and not poking paint that looks like siding till you poke it :)) I wish there was something better than caulk to recommend. I was hoping maybe someone might have used improper flashing and replacing it would help. Sometimes people put the upper run of siding down over the lower run over lapping it. Now you have no z bar joint to leak. You could accomplish that now after the fact by siding over the gable again, lapping over the original z bar joint by a bit. If you choose to roll with it and years from now it's a problem you can fix it. You cut out a few inches to eliminate the rot, tuck new z bar in big enough to accommodate a 1x6, sheet the torn off area, and add that 1x6 or 8 to hide the repair. Check around your windows for more of the same. Now you caulk, paint and wait to fix it again. I really wish I could tell you we don't get frequent referrals from the painter for just such work on both smart siding and wood siding. Edit- I feel I may have missed the obvious, if that is work performed by a contractor, give them a chance to stand behind their work and fix it.
 
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