Woodruff keyseat needed.......No cutter.

To expound on what Erick said you can take a small boring bar for the lathe hand grind it to the correct width and adjust the dia . by moving the cutter in or out. It's just a piece of round stock drilled crossway with a set screw in the end to hold the tool bit. From a business point of view i agree with John York. View attachment 326237
Ah, doh! I feel foolish now for not thinking about that. I got 90% there, but gave up at the line :)

I got caught up in grinding the bottom/extending the shank of a endmill from the broken pile, and didn't think of a 0-angle bar like this.
 
Is there any reason to not simply mill a flat slot and use a standard key? The slot only needs to be as long as the key, thus it is captured like the woodruff would be.
Pierre
I see that this was already suggested.
I think a standard key would fit a bit too shallow. It would only go into the shaft 2mm and stick out 2mm. The main problem with these pumps are the wear on the shaft at the keyway and that is with a woodruff key seating at about 5mm at the deepest point.
 
To expound on what Erick said you can take a small boring bar for the lathe hand grind it to the correct width and adjust the dia . by moving the cutter in or out. It's just a piece of round stock drilled crossway with a set screw in the end to hold the tool bit. From a business point of view i agree with John York. View attachment 326237
I tried this,but failed. I will give it another wack. I will try another approach this time.
 
A woodruff key like that is usually meant to precisely locate something that fits on the shaft, like a gear or pulley. That key is supposed to be an interference fit into the keyslot and the right key will have the correct height above the surface to allow the slot in the mating part to fit. Essentially, you should use the right woodruff keyseat cutter to produce the slot so the two parts fit properly.

I, too, would tell the customer that if he doesn't want to pay for the required cutter then you cannot do the job. Trying to cob this task may result in failure of that part and guess who gets the blame?
 
Mikey you are absolutely right,but luckily for me this customer is a very good customer and always pay on time, but he is also one of those customers who sometimes like to make a quick fix job. I told him to rather take the part I made to someone that do have a cutter,but he insisted that I give it a go,he will be ok with the outcome. So I am not to worried about failure that comes back to me,HE INSISTED.
 
I would lend you a correct cutter and key but just realized where you are located . You could most likely purchase one for the price it would cost to mail it to you . :(
 
Quick update. The customer agreed to get the cutter and now I must make 4 of these instead of one. Now it makes it worth buying the cutter.
 
I learned the hard way that Woodruff keyseat cutters require an extremely accurate collet to hold them. My ER chuck and Techniks collets run out 0.0002" TIR max, so 0.0001" actual run out. That gets me the required interference fit on the key. More than that and the key is loose, and a loose key means a moving part and eventual wear.

Lesson: If fitment is an issue, look at your tool holding system.
 
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