Wiring lighting in the shop....

[HMF]

Finally got the mess and clutter cleaned up in the basement and shop.
Overhead shop wiring is next. I am running my own wires.

Make sure your lights are always on a separate dedicated circuit(s) from the outlets.
In NYC, a 4x4 box is required with metallic conduit (MC) or BX.

The circuit runs from the dedicated breaker to each switch box, then out to the light(s) controlled in each area and then to the next switch box. The circuit wiring is simpler to understand and implement if you bring power into the switch box then to each light and then to a switch. I'd rather do my splices at ground level then standing on a ladder. Each box has 3 MC cables, the incoming, outgoing and fixture cables.

To help me remember while I am working, I created a mockup of the splicing:




I use the three cample clamps in the box and make the top two in and out lines and the bottom cable goes to the fixture. That one has to be bent up because all three go up to the joists.

The wires go through the top plate of the walls and, when going across joists crossways, NYC requires holes in the joists for the wire rather than staples.


:tiphat: Nelson

 

[icore3user]

Finally got the mess and clutter cleaned up in the basement and shop.
Overhead shop wiring is next. I am running my own wires.

Make sure your lights are always on a separate dedicated circuit(s) from the outlets.
In NYC, a 4x4 box is required with metallic conduit (MC) or BX.

The circuit runs from the dedicated breaker to each switch box, then out to the light(s) controlled in each area and then to the next switch box. The circuit wiring is simpler to understand and implement if you bring power into the switch box then to each light and then to a switch. I'd rather do my splices at ground level then standing on a ladder. Each box has 3 MC cables, the incoming, outgoing and fixture cables.

To help me remember while I am working, I created a mockup of the splicing:

View attachment 39406


I use the three cample clamps in the box and make the top two in and out lines and the bottom cable goes to the fixture. That one has to be bent up because all three go up to the joists.

The wires go through the top plate of the walls and, when going across joists crossways, NYC requires holes in the joists for the wire rather than staples.


:tiphat: Nelson

Lucky for me I live in CA, where you can run NMC ( AKA Romex ) so as long as it's protected under 8 foot ( in walls is ok ), you can use plastic boxes in lieu of steel boxes. That being said my garage is in state of flux, having serves as both wood shop and just starting to stock it with machine tools ( just picked up a used Enco 13x40 lathe ). It has yet to be wired up for any sub panel ( though i do have it mounted ), one thing i will do is run flex lines ( 1/2 to 3/4) into 4s/5s deep boxes to allow for future upgrades , in addition to my normal receptacles run in NMC ( 20 amps, #12/2 ) around my shop. My main panel is a small Bulldog "pushmatic" meter panel at only 100 amps, and smaller ( in size and breaker slots )than your Cutler Hammer 12/24 load center in your other post, i will upgrade it to a 200 amp meter panel, but i have a ways to go before i fully set up my shop, much less wire it. The other thing is as a owner i can pull my own permit and do my own wiring. I tend to put all my lighting on 15 amp circuits with #14 wire, since it's easier to do make up, set switches, dimmers and what not with out worrying about wire fill, and since I have done my kitchen, bathroom and bedroom lighting in LED down lights, one 15 amp circuit handles it well. I plan on wiring my garage shop light in LED, either down or 2x2 indirects, once I get the garage laid out, and other things covered. Here in CA the electrical meters are wireless, and is the water meter, so the reader only needs to get with in reasonable distance and the data gets transmitted.
since you are working with with MC, you are using the anti shorts provided with the cable right ( some call them red devils ).

Alfredo

 

[HMF]

Lucky for me I live in CA, where you can run NMC ( AKA Romex ) so as long as it's protected under 8 foot ( in walls is ok ), you can use plastic boxes in lieu of steel boxes. That being said my garage is in state of flux, having serves as both wood shop and just starting to stock it with machine tools ( just picked up a used Enco 13x40 lathe ). It has yet to be wired up for any sub panel ( though i do have it mounted ), one thing i will do is run flex lines ( 1/2 to 3/4) into 4s/5s deep boxes to allow for future upgrades , in addition to my normal receptacles run in NMC ( 20 amps, #12/2 ) around my shop. My main panel is a small Bulldog "pushmatic" meter panel at only 100 amps, and smaller ( in size and breaker slots )than your Cutler Hammer 12/24 load center in your other post, i will upgrade it to a 200 amp meter panel, but i have a ways to go before i fully set up my shop, much less wire it. The other thing is as a owner i can pull my own permit and do my own wiring. I tend to put all my lighting on 15 amp circuits with #14 wire, since it's easier to do make up, set switches, dimmers and what not with out worrying about wire fill, and since I have done my kitchen, bathroom and bedroom lighting in LED down lights, one 15 amp circuit handles it well. I plan on wiring my garage shop light in LED, either down or 2x2 indirects, once I get the garage laid out, and other things covered. Here in CA the electrical meters are wireless, and is the water meter, so the reader only needs to get with in reasonable distance and the data gets transmitted.
since you are working with with MC, you are using the anti shorts provided with the cable right ( some call them red devils ).

Alfredo

Alfredo,

Yes, the anti-short bushings (red devils) are a must by code. I am using MC instead of BX (Greenfield) because MC is aluminum clad instead of steel and easier to work with, cut and bend and comes with a separate green ground wire, which is now also required. The cable/ground often doesn't hold up.

We upgraded to 200 amp- had to hire an electrician to do it here.
I don't work in the panel. I have him hook the 12/2 wires to the panel and then I take it from there. I'm afraid to do the breakers or work in the panel. The books I use don't make it that clear, and there is live electricity in there all the time even if you shut the mains. :shocked: The box coming from the meter no longer has a knife switch disconnect before the panel to shut everything down. I want to add a subpanel for the shed outside but have no clue how to.

Here is a shot of the main panel setup and 3 disconnects for the lathe and 2 mills that the sparky installed for me.




Here is how I have to install a light switch to meet code:

:tiphat:Nelson

 

[icore3user]

sub panels are not that hard, and if you sub panel is located inside the shed, then is does not have to be a NEMA 3/ 3R rated panel, ( [FONT=Arial,Helvetica,Geneva,Swiss,SunSans-Regular]NEMA 3 – Enclosures constructed for either indoor or outdoor use to provide a degree of protection to personnel against incidental contact with the enclosed equipment; to provide a degree of protection against falling dirt, rain, sleet, snow, and windblown dust; and that will be undamaged by the external formation of ice on the enclosure. )[/FONT], the main issue is keeping the neutral and the ground separate, as they are only bonded at the service entrance ).

knife switches are too cool, i have not seen one of those ahead of a meter / panel in years, yes i am a sparky, commercial mainly, but i do a bit of residential as well. the only reason i was mentioning the anti shorts was i have seen to many ( commercial ) electricians not use them, claiming that the plastic ferule on a speed lock connector protects the wire, I have to remind them it only protects the wire passing thru the sped lock connectors, not against the pressure of the sped lock clamping pressure on the side of the armored cable itself, and as you note, it's requires by code as well.

MC is also available in steel, though it no fun to cut even with a roto splitter, and of course is heavier.

though in an old house, i rather have it run in BX than the old 2 wire cloth woven cable, which has no ground ( like my house, built in 54 ), so i am systematically, room by room, replacing all of it, and isolating the circuits as i go.

it's also interesting how some cities do not allow for NMC ( romex ), my boss is from Chicago, and there is all in EMT or steel flex ( greenfield ), residential and commercial. I have no issue with NMC when it's done right, but some people do not care for it. The issue i have is old panels like Federal Pacific, Zinsco, and other old panels where they are prone to arcing or breakers not tripping on a fault, or AL wiring for branch circuits. I do not even have a cold water ground, since my incoming used to be galvanized, and over the years was replaced from the street by PVC ijstead of type K copper, so bonding to my water pipes does absolutely no good. I have to drive 2 ground rods for my EGC ( electric grounding conductor ) sincei have olny a small #8 copper embeded into the footings ( raised foundation ).