[How do I?] wire forward-reverse switch

Hi Terry, if you would like some step-by-step instruction later about getting the reversing function working I would be happy to help.
Everyone else: I would like to make the suggestion that we try not to pile on too many responses to requests for specific help with electrics- it gets confusing pretty fast and everyone has his own method of teaching- sometimes it's best to have only one or two cooks on the stew if you catch my drift...
Mark S.
 
Anyhow I think we may have to go back and do some more continuity checks on your switch, then we will know how to wire it.
We're always here, and the coffee is always hot ;)
Mark S.
 
Anyhow I think we may have to go back and do some more continuity checks on your switch, then we will know how to wire it.
We're always here, and the coffee is always hot ;)
Mark S.
I'd like to make a global observation regarding Hobby-Machinist. I stand continually amazed at how helpful everyone on this site seems to be! That goes for members of the staff who have routinely responded and guided me on how to navigate through some of the technicalities on most effectively using this resource, continues with the many obvious expert users who are so willing (no, 'eager') to help others through specific challenges, and reaches all the way down to us neophytes who, for one reason or another, have a fascination with machining but no immediate venue to pursue it. In my case, throughout my professional career (from which I am now retired), I always needed a high-energy hobby to vent. I'm Type A/OCD; can't help it. Progressing through my personal machining learning curve, I recognized two things early on: how much there is to learn and how little I actually know. I also became keenly aware, unfortunately, of how limited resources are in my local area. That led to a pattern of investigating a small handful of blogs on the internet and, somehow ended up with my discovering Hobby-Machinist. Am I ever glad I did!

I can candidly say I have never been involved with a resource in which participants at every level are so pleasant. I'm sitting in front of my computer trying to think of adequate descriptors and, I must say, it's difficult. The list is quite simply too long. 'Professional', 'knowledgeable', 'helpful' all come to mind, but I find myself gravitating toward a single overriding adjective: courteous. It's quite clear to me that I'm dealing with individuals who have far more knowledge in machining than I will ever know, but there is no hint of arrogance or superiority in anyone's responses. That's refreshing. And it's a life-lesson for all of us that goes well beyond machining.

Mark, I'm responding to you because you're the last who posted a helpful comment on what I perceived to be an essentially dead issue until I had a notion to resurrect it. But I hope ALL of you who have responded to this or any of my other posts recognize I'm speaking to you as well. A hearty, 'Thank you to the Hobby-Machinist community!' And I love a good cup of coffee.

Terry
 
TJ,
There should be a removable cover plate on your motor where the power connects to, post a close-up picture of that.
Waiting for your friend could be a wise decision, but posts like these may well help others down the road.
Having the complete story in posts like these allows people to direct others with similar issues to them.
See if you can get a picture with the terminal numbers legible and post the results you got from testing your switch as well.
Your friend might like a second opinion on the wiring as well.
 
Thanks Terry for the compliments. This is "fun" for folks like us.
At your end, can you see if you can disconnect the motor wire called T5 and extend it to reach the switch. That will be necessary to get the reverse function working.
You will be running the motor on 220 volts correct?
Next step we will do some more measuring on the switch itself, and I can provide a sketch showing what to connect. Have a dentist appt. today, will get back to you
later...
Mark S.
 
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TJ,
There should be a removable cover plate on your motor where the power connects to, post a close-up picture of that.
Waiting for your friend could be a wise decision, but posts like these may well help others down the road.
Having the complete story in posts like these allows people to direct others with similar issues to them.
See if you can get a picture with the terminal numbers legible and post the results you got from testing your switch as well.
Your friend might like a second opinion on the wiring as well.

Sorry about not getting to you sooner. I'm actually committed on other issues probably through Friday. After that, I'll try to get pictures as you suggested. I don't know if you saw the close up of the spec plate that I sent in one or two of the latest posts, but the wires are exactly as indicated for the 'high voltage' option.

I agree with you: Hopefully, this process will accomplish two things. One, I'll learn something about wiring that will likely come in handy in the future. And two, maybe it will streamline a similar challenge for some other users. A win-win for us all.

Thanks and best regards,
Terry
 
Thanks Terry for the compliments. This is fun for folks like us.
At your end, can you see if you can disconnect the motor wire called T5 and extend it to reach the switch. That will be necessary to get the reverse function working.
You will be running the motor on 220 volts correct?
Next step we will do some more measuring on the switch itself, and I can provide a sketch showing what to connect. Have a dentist appt. today, will get back to you
later...
Mark S.
Yes, Mark. I'm sure I can run a wire. I pretty confident we're going to conquer this one eventually. I've been pretty swamped myself yesterday and today, and it won't be over until the weekend. So it might be a little while before I'm able to get back onto this. I'll send you a post as soon as I can.

Regards,
Terry
 
I don't know if you saw the close up of the spec plate that I sent in one or two of the latest posts, but the wires are exactly as indicated for the 'high voltage' option.
Thanks and best regards, Terry

I saw the pictures, was curious as it didn't designate wire colors. Not unusual, but be careful disconnecting any wires from the terminals (which you'll have to do in order to connect to your switch).
Removing one at a time is no problem, more than one can get problematic if you're not careful. I'd suggest making a drawing with both the terminal designators and associated wire colors for future reference if needed.
 
Terry I put together a sketch for you which should get you going. I'm presuming the switch is a dual pole, dual throw type internally. It would be advisable to remove all the wires from it and test it with your meter to verify it's really a DPDT type.
Your switch was probably intended to be used with a relay or latching contactor; most reversing "drum" switches are a dual pole, triple throw configuration.
The dashed line means the two wipers move together; there should be no electrical connection between them.
Any questions just ask. MotorSW230v1b.jpeg
Mark S.
 
I saw the pictures, was curious as it didn't designate wire colors. Not unusual, but be careful disconnecting any wires from the terminals (which you'll have to do in order to connect to your switch).
Removing one at a time is no problem, more than one can get problematic if you're not careful. I'd suggest making a drawing with both the terminal designators and associated wire colors for future reference if needed.

Yes, you're right. There are no wire colors, but they are clearly labeled P1, P2, T2, T3, T4, T5, T8. That part was relatively easy. Thanks for the advice.

Regards,
Terry
 
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