white vinegar derusting disaster

darkzero said:
I've been meaning to try Evaporust, heard great things about it, even saw it at HF a while back. Do parts have to be submerged to work, like can it be used as a spot remover for rust for parts that are too large to submerge? I'm assuming the reason is cause it needs plenty of time to work.

I've been using gun blue remover for parts to big to submerge. I also have a bottle naval jelly but I've never tried it yet.

Saw on TV recently they now have a bucket (2.5 gal?) that comes with a strainer to holds parts. Been thinking about getting it.
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For "spotting" and parts too large to submerge I would probably to with the naval jelly. You can spot with the evapo-rust using soaked (and keeping them soaked) paper towels or running it across the part with a small fountain pump but I think the gel would be less mess and hassle.

Definitely get some and try it out though, amazing stuff.

JMHO,

-Ron
 
Regarding EVAPO-RUST:

There is a lot of information about how easy and safe it is but be aware of a significant issue.

The instructions say to "immerse" and they mean it. Fully immerse the part or keep a close eye on it.

Be aware that EVAPO-RUST may etch a line, at the meniscus after extended exposure, on a partially submerged part.

I soaked a heavily rusted and pitted mild steel part for a few days and came away with a ≈.020" wide x ≈.005" deep etched band.

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I use CorrosionX in my home shop
I tried it first on a few small needle files I got at a garage sale.

I let them soak over night just to test it out.

Do Not Do This !

It turned the files completely dull. But it did remove All the rust.

I recently cleaned up my calipers (from the same garage sale) on a scotchbrite wheel.

Great news Found them to be Starrett's and I only paid $5 for the hand full of stuff I got.

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silence dogood said:
I've used vinegar on rust and to remove galvanized coatings with excellent results. I also rinse really well afterwards. So Wermie. let me get this straight. Do not use any kind of acid on a spring steel material. I think that I learned something. Thanks. Mark
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There is a time exposure element at work here, too. The longer the exposure, the more hydrogen atoms are absorbed, and the worse the problem. Evidently, overnight is just a tad bid too long for small parts. Short periods would probably be fine, especially with no stress on the item. From what I understand, there is a heat process by which the absorbed hydrogen can be released and the effects are reversed.

Plating and heat treating companies deal with this issue all the time and they know far more about it than I do. Here is a good, quick read about it for anyone that is interested. I am sure there are other articles on it as well.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_embrittlement
 
Wow! Thanks for the great discussion! Are the bows that survived the vinegar now damaged to the point that they too will fail? Is there any way to reverse the process for the ones still intact?


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That is scary, the way vinegar destroyed your calipers/dividers! Thanks for posting that.
I have a good collection of calipers/dividers, some vintage Starrett. I only oil them or use ScotchBrite.
I take ultra care of my tools so any information on their care and maintenance is always welcome.


Evap O Rust looks interesting. Does anyone know what it is?
I've used white vinegar and lemon juice to remove mill scale from steel parts
but would never use it for tools. Too corrosive.



Thanks
 
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Lynrob said:
Wow! Thanks for the great discussion! Are the bows that survived the vinegar now damaged to the point that they too will fail? Is there any way to reverse the process for the ones still intact?


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Remove them from the instruments and bake them at 375F to 400F for at least four hours. Be careful not to get them so hot you anneal them.
 
I've de-rusted a bunch of drills and the like using white vinegar and it works really well. Some of the carbon steel taps I tried in there came out sans rust but a darker grey which wouldn't buff off, whereas the HSS taps and drills came out nice'n'shiny.
 
For things like those spring calipers and especially for scales or combo square blades use Barkeepers Friend. It's similar to Brasso, but in powder form. A bit of water, Barkeepers Friend and some white or green scotchbrite will clean and bring back the shine while not damaging paint in the lines or numbers of combo square blades.

Take a peak here at the beginning to see how it does https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5PH8vUrKdc&list=UUG0Oeg2KLMmgFzcsoCUYdeQ
 
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