What's the best parting tool?

xalky

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I'm fed up with the blade type cutoff tools. They work OK for parting small stuff up to maybe 1 1/2" Dia., but anything bigger than that, they suck. I snapped one last night trying to part a 3" bar. Those blade type cutoffs apparently don't like to be stuck out 1 1/2" past the holder. :whistle:

So I'm looking for perhaps something that takes an insert. I was looking at the Iscars. Not sure if there's anything else out there thats comparable or better.

Marcel
 
I was in the same situation you are in. I finally broke down and bought one of the aloris holders and blades with the carbide inserts. Infortunately I havn't been in the shop since I got it due to holidays and what not, so I haven't tried it out. If I get motivated I may try it out tomorrow.
 
Well, you also might try a different technique. I use a 1/16 X 1/2 in parting tool in a holder that holds the blade horizontal rather than angled. When I want to part something thick, I do it a little at a time. I extend the blade 1/2 in. Cut to depth. Retract the tool from the workpiece. Extend it another half inch or so from the holder. Cut to depth. Repeat until I have enough blade extended to part all the way through the material. I cut up to 3 in steel stock on my little 7x14 that way without any problems. It just takes a while. :)
 
When I am parting big stuff, which really does'nt happen all that often, I drive in until I feel I am deep enough, then back out, move the tool about 1/4 - 1/2 its width left or right, and plunge back in. Go as far as I feel safe and happy, back out and move back to the original spot and plunge back in again. Just gives a bit more side clearance, room for chips, tool deflection...........I dont really know but it was shown to me by an old hand way back when.......

Cheers Phil
 
I'm kind of partial to the Iscar system. I believe it has been copied a couple of times now, but I will never go back to HSS again.

A great point was made earlier, and this works on the inserted part-off tools as well. Do not extend the blade the full length you need to part the material. It is much stiffer when it is short, and the preliminary cut will act as a guide as the cut gets deeper and you extend the blade out.

Also, bear in mind that the inserts come in 3 basic styles, depending on which side of the cut you want to leave the nub, or burr, and one that is neutral.
 
There is only one kind of partoff tools Iscar Tangrip and I am their most satisfied user.

Google Tungsten Carbide partoff tooling and convert.

I only use J geometry inserts.The c geometry is for proffesionals with real lathes
 
I bought an Iscar knockoff from shars. For around 80$ last year for the wife to give me for Christmas :) http://www.shars.com/product_categories/view/80306/Positive_Stop_Blade__Tool_Block_Sets
cutoff.jpg

We use Kennametal Iscar knockoffs at work but I wasn't feeling that spendy. The shars has seen a good deal of use and I am very pleased with it. It cuts square and deep even with the inserts included in the kit. Usually I find that replacing import inserts is well worth it.
IMGP3097.JPG
The spruel folds into the middle and rolls out like a coin for chip control just like it should. I just feed in at .007"/r and watch it happen. YMMV

Steve

cutoff.jpg IMGP3097.JPG
 
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Iscar is the answer. I got mine when they were still pricey and used uncoated inserts. I just couldn't believe the "gold" was that good.
One day I needed a couple inserts and TADA they only had the coated ones for about twice the price. Bought two and I've never looked back. One thing is to get the thickest one your machine will run. Less flexing in deep cuts. I went up in size when I finally broke the smaller one. I may go up another size when this set up is used up/broken. I have forgotten the numbers but get the one with a wedge insert that has a sholder to stop the insert from going any deeper. The wedge without the shoulder will move deeper in the pocket and you loose your center heigth. Broken tools result. Long story,you don't to hear.
 
Thanks for all the replies guys. I'll get the best my wallet can afford.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk
 
In an hobby lathe I think that the thinnest is best.
 
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