What speeds to use with insert tooling?

sanddan

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For the people that are using inserted tooling for turning, what cutting speeds are you using for aluminum and mild steel?

Looking at the manufacturers guides it seems like they recommend much higher cutting speeds than most manual lathes can muster. I assume they are for CNC applications on massive, very stiff machines.

I'm looking for a guideline I can use in a home shop on a midsized lathe (PM1340-GT).

Another question, if the above lathe drops more than 50 RPM when in the cut am I working it too hard?
 
It depends on the exact material you are using, and what exact tooling you are using, at what feed rate, yadda yadda, but I start off at 90-100 SFM for mild steel and 400 SFM for 6061-T6 aluminum. Adjust depending on how it goes. If the lathe does not complain too much, the feed is probably OK. Your lathe is not a 24" American Pacemaker, so don't get too carried away. It takes a lot longer to fix a broken lathe than it does to take a second cut...
 
Yesterday I was cutting a 4.5" dia, 1018 steel part and at 100 SFM it wasn't happy. I ended up cutting at 300 SFM and got a great finish but the handbook called for much higher speeds using ceramic. I was taking a .050" cut at the time but backed off to .030" as the .050" was really working the machine.
 
Yesterday I was cutting a 4.5" dia, 1018 steel part and at 100 SFM it wasn't happy. I ended up cutting at 300 SFM and got a great finish but the handbook called for much higher speeds using ceramic. I was taking a .050" cut at the time but backed off to .030" as the .050" was really working the machine.
Ah, yes! I did not mention that I was talking about HSS tooling. Carbide and ceramic tooling can be run much faster, sometimes 4X faster or more, depending. Regardless, work up slowly to the SFM speeds shown on charts.
 
Unfortunately with our smaller less powerful and rigid machines the published data does not always translate well. I find it takes some experimenting with different insert geometry, DOC, speeds and feeds.

On my PM-1440GT I have started using negative rake inserts with chip breakers for roughing and positive rake inserts for finishing. The negative rake chip breaking inserts can take a heavier cut and don't produce long strings of swarf but it takes some experimentation to get the chips to break at slower speeds.

I recently turned some 3" A36 and to get the best finish I was running 800 SFM, .06" DOC & .007 feed which was pretty terrifying when the chips wouldn't break. Hooray for foot breaks!
 
You guys largely waste your money buying carbide for home shop machines that cannot get the full benefit from it. I keep some carbide on hand for turning hardened steel a bit,though it isn't made for that,and for facing off the cast iron face plate. Cast iron dulls HSS quickly because our modern import lathes cannot run SLOWLY enough for cast iron in larger diameters. THAT'S what really bugs me about import lathes.I have my 16" lathe so it turns 30 RPM instead of the 60 RPM it would normally turn. That 30 rpm is still way too fast for large work of any type,and 60 rpm is just plain stupid. Just try turning work of 24" in the gap !!!!! I did a job of WOOD once that large.
 
If you want to use carbide inserts on a less than rigid machine I highly recommend TPG inserts, they have been around for ever, are cheap are easy to touch up with a diamond hone and best of all they will take light cuts in steel without skipping and then digging in. I routinely take half a thou cuts with a sharp TPG, you can not do that with a CNMG and the like. Yes turning a zillion rpm taking a heavy cut at fast feed you can get incredible finishes with the more modern inserts but for down and dirty home shop work on a wiggly lathe (most of the stuff out of Taiwan and China) the TPG is hard to beat. I use uncoated ones in both steel and aluminum and cut dry with steel a little light oil like kerosene for the aluminum. I am pleased with results in 4140,1018, even gummy A36.

Pros routinely poo poo the TPG, but for home shop work it is great IMO. Only downside is with no chip breaker you have to control rats nests by varying speed or feed, or be ready with the hook to pull chip away from chuck.

I forgot to mention you can run a TPG most times at speeds much slower than recommended for carbide, numerous times I have worked on a piece turning 60-100 sfm which is HSS territory.

cheers
michael
 
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I used to look at those SFM charts, as mentioned they're just a starting point & really not applicable to hobby guys. I strictly use indexable carbides & I know I can't use most of them to their full potential but I use themfor convenience. Chip breakers vary so I adjust speeds & feeds to give me good chip control when roughing & for finish.

99% of my carbide inserts are purchased on ebay. I usually pay only $2- $3 per insert. Each insert generally gets me 2-6 cutting edges. Each insert usually lasts me a very long time. I love the fact that they're indexable & is my main reason for using them. Break an insert, replace it, & keep on going without having to reindicate. And with my DRO I can set tool offsets so it saves me a lot of time when switching back & forth between tools without having to always reindicate. That right there makes it well worth it to me. Now if I had to pay full price on inserts, $10-$20 each, no way I would use them.

Your 1340GT can handle negative inserts, I use a bit on my 1236 but I prefer & use psotive inserts most of the time.
 
For the people that are using inserted tooling for turning, what cutting speeds are you using for aluminum and mild steel?

Looking at the manufacturers guides it seems like they recommend much higher cutting speeds than most manual lathes can muster. I assume they are for CNC applications on massive, very stiff machines.

I'm looking for a guideline I can use in a home shop on a midsized lathe (PM1340-GT).

Another question, if the above lathe drops more than 50 RPM when in the cut am I working it too hard?

Dan, this is a great topic with complicated answers. I'm no carbide expert but when I looked into inserted carbide cutters I realized that there is much more to the subject than I thought. Looking at my notes, here is what I considered at the time:
  • The lathe - rigidity of the lathe, tool holding system, horsepower, speeds available, feed speeds and degree of control.
  • The insert - geometry, grade/coating, nose radius, chip breaker, rake (neg, pos).
  • Material - each has its own cutting speed. Each insert manufacturer will have their own SFM recommendations for each material.
  • The cut - continuous, interrupted, coolant used or not
I'm sure the list is not complete but its the meat. Everything on the list is inter-related, and that's the thing many of us don't think about much.

Most of us own smaller, less rigid lathes but some, like you, own bigger, more rigid and powerful lathes BUT almost none of us own lathes that are FAST enough to use the insert as intended. Cutting speeds for a common insert like a CCMT insert in mild steel can vary from 700 to 1700 SFM, depending on the grade and coating of the insert. Let's say you have a 1.5" OD work piece of 1018 mild steel and you're using a PVD coated insert that you're feeding at 0.004 ipr. Cutting speed is about 1300 SFM so rpm will be around 3300 rpm. For aluminum with a CCGT insert, you're looking at about 1900 SFM for an rpm of about 4800. Depending on the chipbreaker and the depth of cut you're taking, cutting loads will vary but if the motor is powerful enough and the lathe is rigid enough then the insert will cut as intended.

I think a lot of us know that an inserted carbide tip will cut at a slower speed but few will cut with the finish and tool life they should. Some inserts have very sharp edges and some have edges that are formed/pressed with a beveled edge. It really depends on which insert you're using.

The other factor that comes into play is the nose radius of the cutter because this has a direct impact on cutting forces and finishes. To reduce chatter, you really have to at least bury the nose radius in the cut and if you use a chip breaker then the required depth of cut for the chip breaker to work as intended is even heavier. So, it also depends on the nose radius/chip breaker configuration, too. In addition, if you don't take an adequate depth of cut you get more deflection and that leads to difficulties in holding tolerances.

When you consider all the factors that go into using these tools properly, it isn't as cut and dried as what your speed should be. And if the speed drops by 50 rpm during a cut, I would suspect the tool is not cutting as it should, the tool may be deflecting and the resultant cutting loads are too high.

I started looking at this subject many years ago because I figured it was easier to switch out an insert than it was to grind a HSS tool, and it is. But it didn't work well at the speeds I had available, nor was my little lathe rigid enough to sustain the cutting loads the insert produced at the depth of cut the nose radius and chip breaker required. I have a larger lathe now but these factors still apply.

As an aside, I once had an opportunity to see how a CCGT insert worked on a Sherline lathe with a 10K spindle on aluminum; that showed me what that insert is truly capable of when the speeds are appropriate, even if the depth of cut is not ideal. It matched HSS is accuracy and finish, no question. Now I know speed is important with these tools.

Anyway, this is why I prefer HSS. The edge actually lasts longer than a carbide insert does (when used improperly by me on my lathes) and it cuts better in just about every way. I can hone an edge faster than I can change an insert anyway so this works for me.
 
If you can not turn the spindle fast enough or use a deep enough DOC then most insert tooling is not for you, not all however.
Use the most positive rake sharpest uncoated inserts that you can find, run it as fast as possible with a minimum .008-.010 DOC for finishing, also use flood coolant if possible.
 
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