What kind of collet chuck should I make?

shooter123456

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I have a piece of scrap round stock that I think will be perfect for a collet chuck for my PM1030V lathe. I have been looking up designs and I don't know what kind of collets I should use.

I have some ER32 and 5C collets already, but I don't think it makes sense to limit it to either of those two.

I was also toying with the idea of making a custom set of collets for the chuck because I think it would be a fun project.

So the question: for a lathe collet chuck, what collet system do you prefer and why? Any thoughts are appreciated.
 
I bought a 5C collet chuck because I had a set of 5C collets. That was a mistake. My set was by 1/16" increments but it really need to be by 1/64" increments to properly cover any diameter in the range. ER collets have a much greater grip range and by their design, they grip the work in a parallel fashion unlike a 5C collet. Doing it over, I would go with an ER32 0r ER40 chuck.
 
For general purpose I chose ER32 collets because of the range of each collet. Making an ER collet chuck for the lathe spindle with a through hole allows holding of long work.
Lots to read about in other threads about making collet holders.
 
For what a collet costs, it isn't very practical to make them. I have 5C, R-8 and ER-40 and use them all. Your
time will be better spent to buy what you need and move on to better things.
 
Your lathe only has a 1" spindle bore so I should think that an ER-40 system, which also has a 1" max collet size, would maximize your capacity. The ER system will give you the greatest clamping range with the fewest number of collets so your costs are lower.

I have not personally made one of these but if I were to do it, I would use a carbide boring bar and indicate the bar to be sure I hit the 8 degree taper.

I'm attaching the dimensions for ER chuck, just in case you need it.
 

Attachments

  • ER collet cavity dimensions.pdf
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I have a set of 5C collets in 64's, they do not cover all size ranges.
1/64" is about 0.015", and the max working compression of a 5c collet is less than 0.010".

5C and E collets are fundamentally different in the design and intention. The slits are cut only at the mouth on a 5C, meaning it will always clamp first at the mouth. The slits are cut at both ends on an E collet, meaning it will compress at both ends.

E series collets are tool holding, as opposed to 5C which are work holding. 5C collets are meant to hold work, and are designed so that they can clamp properly their nominal size even if only the very tip to the collet is used. E-series collets on the other hand are designed to clamp along their entire bore. If you put a short piece of work in one, the deep end will over compress resulting in the work not being fully tightened at the mouth (bell mouthing). This can also damage the collet, and the collet seat in the chuck when torqued down.

Another thing to consider, is that even the highest quality collet will not compress evenly, so when you put very undersized work into it, it will probably not be on center, and it probably will not repeat its center. So, even though E series collets appear to have a greater range, they really don't if you expect to keep their precision.

E collets are also considerable less flexible in terms of function. Not only are accessories like collet blocks, depth stops, and mini-chucks common and inexpensive, 5C also have square, expanding, step-jaw, and soft face collets. There are essentially no accessories for E-series collets, aside from the oddball collet block you see from time to time. E-series collets also have a collet nut, but I doubt that would really interfere with machining 99% of the time.

I debated and drug my feet for a really long time over this choice. I finally dropped the dime on 5C and I wonder why I ever even considered any other option. I have yet to need a size that my set does not cover, but I can bore one from an emergency collet should the (unlikely) need ever arise.

One thing to consider on a chuck, is whether or not you can get the tool post under it. You can get a sleeve that fits the Morse taper, but your carriage may not be able to get close enough to it. I opted for a chuck from CDCO tools (they sell Bostar), I recommend not getting a 1 piece unit, get one that uses a backing plate so you can fit it properly.
 
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