What do y'all think about this ?

On my 9 SBL, mine has the star wheel, I'll stop the feed just shy of hitting the shoulder. I've never had the clutch to lock up and not dis-engage. One thing I recommend, is not to engage hard when engaging. Just gently engage the lever till it grabs and feeds. Not sure if the lever type is adjustable, maybe bac1972 can enlighten us a little.

Mine has the star wheel, so you are using the clutch to stop the feed?
 
On my 9 SBL, mine has the star wheel, I'll stop the feed just shy of hitting the shoulder. I've never had the clutch to lock up and not dis-engage. One thing I recommend, is not to engage hard when engaging. Just gently engage the lever till it grabs and feeds. Not sure if the lever type is adjustable, maybe bac1972 can enlighten us a little.

With the factory design (referring to the diagram below), the slip torque is adjusted by loosening a setscrew (thru hole "U"), rotating the swivel nut ("S"), and re-tightening the setscrew. Once the torque is set, the radial position of the lever is adjusted for operator preference by loosening a setscrew ("O"), rotating the lever to the desired position, and re-tightening the setscrew: http://www.wswells.com/data/parts/2003.pdf
 
I understand the clutch, how do you stop to a shoulder when turning, disengage the power feed, disengage the belt, or disengage the clutch?
I definitely use the clutch and stop short and finish off the shoulder last. If you stop the belt you risk cutting tool breakage. I also have a variety of adjustable stops if I'm doing something critical. South Bend makes a few different ones you can usually locate used. I have a micrometer one on there now that I use the most. This video is long but worth watching. There is also a book version out there.
 
I definitely use the clutch and stop short and finish off the shoulder last. If you stop the belt you risk cutting tool breakage. I also have a variety of adjustable stops if I'm doing something critical. South Bend makes a few different ones you can usually locate used. I have a micrometer one on there now that I use the most. This video is long but worth watching. There is also a book version out there.

Thank you. The video is helpful. The clutch handle on this one has been tightened so much that I could not budge it with just my hand. I may need a strap wrench to loosen it.

Thank you again.
 
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Thank you. The video is helpful. The clutch handle on this one has tightened is much that I could not budge it with just my hand. I may need a strap wrench to loosen it.

Thank you again.
You're welcome...glad I could help.
 
Y'all might be interested in this one. The original thrust washer appears to be hardened material and should be good for the application, but I happen to have ball bearing thrust bearing set that happen to fit perfectly. I bought these a couple of years ago for a project that I never started. To keep the nut from unscrewing itself I just put a couple of drops of 246 Locktite. 20170708_215122.jpg 20170708_215145.jpg 20170708_215254.jpg
 
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